First off, don’t throw away the old switch.
At least not until you proven that it is at fault here.

Second, you can only test for power on one wire. Only one power lead comes in to the switch, while all the other wires are power out to whatever device or accessory they run. So there will be no power to test for on those other wires.
I don’t know what color the wire is that brings power to the switch. On some trucks and Broncos it’s the yellow wire. On others it might be a different color.

Can you post pictures of the connector and its wires?

 

Here's a couple photos, best I can do

 

Perfect! Standard color configuration.

1. The Yellow wire is power in from the harness. Should be hot at all times, with full battery voltage.
This is the one you can test right off the bat.

2. The Red with blue stripe goes out to the starter relay’s “S“ post. cranks up the starter when you turn the key to the “START“ position.

3. The larger Black with green stripe wire (and probably the black wire next to it?) should be accessory power to everything on the truck except for ignition and voltage regulator.
Generally, anything in the fuse box that is switched, is powered by that black with green stripe wire. Perhaps the smaller one goes straight to the instrument cluster voltage regulator. I’d have to have a diagram to see what they do.

4. The Red with green stripe and (presumably?) Green with red stripe wires, coming off of the same terminal, are for the ignition coil and the voltage regulator respectively.
They are hot when the key is in the ON position only. This is what allows you to run the radio in the accessory position and not melt your coil or drain the battery because the charging system is energized.
on my phone, I can’t see the pictures and type at the same time. So I’m really not sure that the other wire is the green with red. But it should be.

5. The light purple/pink wire should be a “prove out“ or “proof out“ circuit. Used to test the switch and other things by sending a signal to ground when the key is turned to START. On some Fords this is used to temporally illuminate a warning lamp in the dash.
Not sure what it’s used for on all of our full-size trucks to be honest. I think some had the warning lamp, while others did not. And here again, since I can’t read the whole thread while I’m on my phone, I don’t remember what year your truck was. if it’s a 73, it’s very likely for a lamp.

sorry if I missed anything. I’ll go back and look at the pictures again.

 

I saw a wire marked "resistor wire" that went into same terminal as the large black/ green stripe wire

 

An update: I ran the jumper from battery positive to the coil positive. Still a no fire condition. With the new switch installed, I checked the voltage from coil negative to ground with key in run and I now have 11.79 volts, but still no spark. From coil + to ground I have 12.68 volts. What should I be checking next? I had this thing running a month ago and now nothing. This is getting frustrating!

 

I’d have to look at the diagrams to see what another resistor wire is doing on the accessory circuit. Normally, it’s attached to the red with green wire to the coil.
Jumping battery voltage to the coil and still not getting spark, means that you’re not having trouble getting power to the coil. The ignition switch sounds like it’s doing its job.

The negative side of the coil is the trigger side, which connects to the distributor, or ignition module.
On a vehicle with a points distributor, it’s a direct connection to the points. Every time the points cycle closed, then open, a spark should be produced by the coil.
Next thing I would check would be, again on the negative side of the coil, would be to see if there’s a pulse signal coming in.
I’m not sure how best to check that, so others will have to provide that info.

In the meantime, I’ll go back and re-read from the beginning, to see if anything new pops out that might be of help.

 

I took my test light, checked for power at coil +. I am getting power to there. I then put my probe on the coil neg terminal, and used my remote starter to crank it over. Test light flashed as I cranked it. I also cranked it with the dist cap off, so I could check at the points and observe , test light flashed as I cranked it, and was seeing a +good blue spark as the points opened and closed. But for some reason it's still not starting

 

Maybe that spark at the points is a little “too good” to be healthy.
Yes, for sure you get sparks as the points open, but they should be very minimized as the energy is mostly absorbed by the condenser. I believe that’s it sole and entire purpose in life. Keep the points alive for awhile.
If the condenser has failed in any way, that could be why you’re not getting a real spark at the coil.
And failed or faulty condensers are a far too common occurrence these days.

Then again, it’s also possible that the coil has failed. But I seem to remember you check the ohms on that. Is that correct? Or am I thinking of another discussion?

 

Coil is a brand new stock replacement one, Standard Blue Streak brand. I did not check ohms on it.. Points and condenser are Master Pro, O'Reilly's store brand (I have heard their ignition parts are crap) Is there any way to test a condenser?? I saved the old points, they looked pretty good, I guess I can put those back in and maybe go get another condenser

 

I decided to say bye bye points and ordered a brand new one wire HEI style electronic distributor and plug wire set. Should have it this weekend. That will solve my problem

 

You would have been cheaper going with a point replacement kit like Pertronix.
No need for a new dist. cap / rotor, or plug wires.
You also would not have that big ugly thing sticking out up front.
Also because of the size some cant get the timing set right as the advance hits something.

So jumper from battery to + side of coil
Test light on - side of coil and when motor is turning over the test light blinks
Now if the jumper was in place and the points sparked that could be normal as I never check when it was turning over
Then again from the factory the coil / points get a full 12 volts so that may be normal.

Where were you checking for spark? Plug wire from coil to the block no more than a 1/4" from ground?
If you were checking at a plug or coil wire to cap that could show a problem with the cap / rotor.
If you have spark at the plugs put some gas down the carb and see what happens.

I would think if the points condensor was bad you may not get spark at the points as they may be grounded?
You said something about the old points you dont have the condensor also?
I would give them a try just for S&G
Dave ----