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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Under dash - 2 brackets - Non-Factory?

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Old Jun 27, 2024 | 12:19 AM
  #31  
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Spent the day with the truck today. Retested the horn wiring to horn relay and found the hot wire. The problem is most certainly at the steer wheel now I do believe.

and to: benbuilder... I have been busy but I will email you again when I slow down and see about those two parts you have that I need

 
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Old Jun 27, 2024 | 03:46 AM
  #32  
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No problem, following along. If you need that three prong rubber connector, i have them
 
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Old Jun 28, 2024 | 11:29 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by TA455HO




I believe someone drilled the extra hole to the left of the steering column on your truck. And an extra one to the right as well I'm thinking.
Ok... I am scratching my head on this one the more I look at the set up.

I have a question: for anyone really.
In your top picture with the two ***** attached to the black bracket which is bolted to the bottom of the dash..... Why would the factory install these two *****, with the mounting bracket to the bottom of the dash like this?

Or..... why didn't the factory mount the two ***** and their cables, in line with those other 5 ***** that are already in the dash, from the factory? (6 in my truck)

(Common sense tells me it was probably because they could not run the two cables to where they needed to go if the ***** were mounted in line with the others).

Just curious
 
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Old Jun 29, 2024 | 07:31 AM
  #34  
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Two types of heaters - recirculating and fresh air. Only the fresh air system got the two cables and bracket. Made it very simple to add those two cables and bracket if needed or not if not.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2024 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO
Two types of heaters - recirculating and fresh air. Only the fresh air system got the two cables and bracket. Made it very simple to add those two cables and bracket if needed or not if not.
Just got back from working o the truck today. More undercarriage Corroseal application, Adjusted the passenger door and now the door shuts easily. First I put the jack under the door and lifted it about and inch or so, the whole truck seemed to move with the door which is a good thing telling me the door hinges/mounts are solid and no rust in there. I went straight to the 6 in-door hinge bolts, loosened them and I thought i could see the door ever so slightly move upwards, wasn't sure but tightened down the bolts, lowered the jack and the door shut very well so I think that door slid upwards just a very little bit but enough to make the difference and the door shuts easily now. I will add pics to todays thread here when I get the pics onto my computer.




Before loosening the 6 door hinge bolts




After loosening the 6 door hinge bolts, hard to see if the door moved up in the second group of door hinge bolt pics but it must have because the door shuts much better now







 
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Old Jun 30, 2024 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by TA455HO
Two types of heaters - recirculating and fresh air. Only the fresh air system got the two cables and bracket. Made it very simple to add those two cables and bracket if needed or not if not.

Can you tell from my pictures which heater this truck heater has - recirculating or fresh air?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2024 | 05:35 PM
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Fresh air heater
 
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Old Jun 30, 2024 | 05:54 PM
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Ok, then I Do Need the two **** with bracket set-up... Thank You
 
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Old Jul 3, 2024 | 04:00 PM
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I was out at my truck today - learned a few things around the dash *****.

I am adding a vid (below) that explains it.


So I DO have both TEMP & HEAT ***** with working cable controls but they both were re-located and I believe this was so the original owner could mount and use a C.B. that he mounted just behind and below where these two ***** were located when it came from the factory.
 
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