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I dont know if there is an issue under the horn button on the steer wheel or if I havent found the correct horn wire.
The pictures are of the wiring coming from the inside of the cab thru the firewall into the engine compartment. Would anyone know by looking at the pictures as to which wire might be for the horn?
Also another question, how to remove the chroma steer wheel horn button from the steer wheel?
I tried prying up lightly but it did not want to lift off.
And why is there a lightning bolt in the center of the steer wheel horn button?
I was trying to remove it so I could look in there for a horn wire.
The horn ring or button on these trucks come off all the same. Push down as if blowing the horn and then turn counter-clockwise. The gear and lightning bolt is one of Fords logos. The hood emblem for all except 1965-66 8 cylinder (V8) had the same logo.
Some of the original floormats had the same logo, too.
Looks like some modifications to the wiring. You might look for the horn relay which could be mounted on the core support not too far from the horn mounting location. You're going to want to make sure there is a relay in the system so worth locating it to start with. Horn wiring should run to it and then from it to the one or two horns.
I removed the Contact Plate with the Horn Button Wiring today trying to see if there might be a wire issue inside there.
I tested all 6 wires with key Off and no voltage readings to any of them. With key On I have 12 volts to this blue wire with the blue arrow pointing to it. The end looked either corroded or possibly has some glue or something at the bare wire area so I cleaned that area real good and re-installed into the top of the column.
I was going to test the horn after I had cleaned out the end of the blue wire but had a malfunction with the key ignition switch, all of a sudden... it did not want to turn either way so I reached back up behind the dash to the backside of the switch unit, wiggled it around a bit and the back side of the switch fell into my hand, looks like I need to buy a new ignition switch now. (see pics below)
If cleaning the end of that blue wire doesnt get the horn to work I am thinking I may need to get a new replacement Contact Plate w/ Horn Button Wires - Kit.
6 wires
pointing to the corroded wire
close-up of the end of the corroded blue wire or over glued blue wire, this wire once cleaned was the only wire of the 6 wires that had 12 volts going to it with the key ON
end of same blue wire but Cleaned out with metal pick and sprayed out with WD-40
The blue wire with yellow stripe in your pictures provides the ground for the horn relay. It's connected to the contact plate. All the other wires in the turn signal switch are for lights not horn. Remember what I said before. The horn button only provides the ground for the relay. The relay has 12V running to it already when the battery and wiring are hooked up. It's just sitting there waiting for the ground signal.
The blue wire with yellow stripe in your pictures provides the ground for the horn relay. It's connected to the contact plate. All the other wires in the turn signal switch are for lights not horn. Remember what I said before. The horn button only provides the ground for the relay. The relay has 12V running to it already when the battery and wiring are hooked up. It's just sitting there waiting for the ground signal.
Questions (just to make sure I am understanding)
1) that blue wire that has 12 volts going to it (not the blue with yellow stripe wire), that wire should have 12 volts going thru it?
2) does the end of that blue wire look corroded and should I replace that contact plate/horn button wires with a new kit? I am thinking my horn not working issue May Be in this contact plate/horn button wires area.
3) that blue wire with the 12 volts going to it... only tests HOT with the key ON or in ACC, it tests zero volts with the key off - So does that mean my horn should only "honk when pressed" with the key ON and should NOT honk with the key OFF?
(It seems to me that the horn ought to honk any time we press the horn ring whether the key is On or Off)
Example wiring diagram above. Note wire number 33 coming to the horn relay from the starter relay (solenoid) connector. It's not going through the solenoid but is connected to the lug that is getting a constant 12V supply when the battery is hooked up. So, horn should work without key in ignition.
The solid blue wire does look a little suspicious. It's number 44 in the drawing which goes to the flasher. If your turn signals and lights are working, I wouldn't mess with that and....as far as a new turn signal switch goes...
Even the lousy reproductions are expensive if you can find one - out of stock at CG Ford Parts ($183.95). If you can find an NOS one for under $300 you are probably doing well.
Example wiring diagram above. Note wire number 33 coming to the horn relay from the starter relay (solenoid) connector. It's not going through the solenoid but is connected to the lug that is getting a constant 12V supply when the battery is hooked up. So, horn should work without key in ignition.
The solid blue wire does look a little suspicious. It's number 44 in the drawing which goes to the flasher. If your turn signals and lights are working, I wouldn't mess with that and....as far as a new turn signal switch goes...
Even the lousy reproductions are expensive if you can find one - out of stock at CG Ford Parts ($183.95). If you can find an NOS one for under $300 you are probably doing well.
I appreciate the reminders to look at the manuals - I need to expand my electrical knowledge and look at those schematics instead of just the pictures - Anyway..... The turn signals work as they are supposed to and Only work when the key is ON so that explains why that blue wire only has 12 volts with the key on.
So now I am not sure what to check next in the horn system. Maybe something will come to me while working on these other two issues in the cab.
I am also trying to come up with a radio stereo replacement or upgrade and also I need to order a New key ignition switch, I believe I can re-use the cylinder that the key slides into and have found a matching replacement ignition switch on Amazon and while I am at it I am ordering a
from Amazon too. I had found one on RockAuto but comparing the two, the prices are a dollar difference, Amazon has fast FREE shipping and never a problem if I need to return an item.
As of right now I have zero oil pressure but that will change when I replace the ignition switch
Electrical work is interesting. I've always enjoyed it. Voltage is referred to as a 'potential difference'. It doesn't necessarily represent work, but the 'potential' to do work. Think if you took your battery and removed it from the truck and set it on the floor. If you measure with a voltmeter across the two terminals, you'd probably get somewhere around 12V. But since nothing is hooked up to the battery as it sits it's not doing any work. Only when it is in a system all hooked up with complete circuits can it do any work. And even when it's flowing a good bit of current (amperage) the volts across the terminals will still be around 12V. So, voltage doesn't necessarily confirm current flow, only that there is a potential difference between the two touch points being measured. An important concept to understand. Similar with household wiring. An outlet can measure 120V AC without anything plugged into the outlet. So, no current is flowing but there is 120V of potential to do work once something is plugged in.
Relays are also interesting items. They have a low current input side and a high current output side.
So, if the focus were on the relay again - without pressing the horn button you'd want to see
12V from ground on the solid yellow wire (wire #33) connector which is the upper left connector in the picture below.
Ground comes in on the blue with yellow stripe (wire #1) from the horn contact plate (only when the horn button is pressed, of course) on the connector to the right by itself.
Output to the horns is on the yellow with green stripe (wire #6) from the relay to the horn(s) on the lower left connector in the picture. That wire to the horns should not have any voltage present between that terminal and ground - like where the horns are grounded on the radiator support - until the low current side is completed by pressing the horn button - or similarly grounding the blue wire with yellow stripe anywhere along its path. If it did have voltage on that wire #6 to the horns constantly and the horns were grounded completing that circuit, then the horns would sound anytime the battery was hooked up. I know that might not help a lot, but perhaps some.
I'd check that out first. It's a fairly basic circuit as seen in the 1961 shop manual page 13-8 in the lower left corner. Much simplified wiring to depict it but that's all there is to it. The #14 and #18 in that drawing are referring to the wire gauge thickness and nothing to do with the wiring diagram. I assume between 1961 and 1962 they changed from a black wire to the horns to the yellow with green stripe or band. Maybe not in all cases, but most anything I've seen doesn't use a black wire there.
Im bringing up a few of my old threads instead of starting new ones - So regarding my: Horn & Turn Signals controls located just under the steer wheel.....
I still have a tail lights/turn signals issue, the same thing keeps happening too it seems.
Sometimes the tail lights come ON and sometimes the tail lights do NOT come ON. Along with this there seems to be a turn signals issue interconnected with the tail lights, the problem does not affect the Front Yellow Turn Signal Lights.
a month or so ago I removed the horn contact plate and brush along with the Turn Indicator Switch and Mounting Plate Assembly.
I think I need to order then install a new Turn Indicator Switch and Mounting Assembly
and also..... I do not remember seeing a "Horn Button Wire" when I removed all this stuff to inspect and clean everything so I May need to order and new one of those as well. The next time I make it out to the truck again I am going to remove all this stuff again take real good pictures of each item, front, back, sides so I know for sure what parts I need to find online.
"If" that horn button wire is missing that would explain why the horns wont blow cause I believe everything else in the Horn System is in good order.
Right now, my best guess is I have an issue with both the turn indicator switch and I may be missing the horn button wire as well. I will know more after I work on the truck again, probably Tuesday.
I think I finally understand that all the stuff in the blue arrows below is the Turn Indicator Switch and Mounting Plate assembly
***I am happy to listen to Anyone that has had these two problems and that Fixed the problems
If you go to the horn relay and disconnect the connector there and insert a short bare wire into the terminal - or your probe if it'll fit - that represents the blue wire with yellow stripe and then a meter from that terminal to frame ground - with the continuity setting chosen then when you press the horn button with everything assembled like normal under the steering wheel then it should complete that circuit and cause the meter to beep. If it doesn't beep see what the ohms is. If less than about 1 ohm it should be fine. Just to remind the ground path is from the frame through the steering gearbox and steering column to the horn button (when pressed) through the horn brush to the contact plate to the blue wire with yellow stripe which goes to the horn relay. By using the internal meter power and completing that circuit back to the frame on the one side of the meter it will tell you if you have a complete path there or not. If not, that's probably the next thing to focus on and figure out why not. You can test for continuity from frame to tip of steering column using a meter, too. If that's not an electrical path, then there is something interfering like corrosion or something like that. There is no wiring involved from frame to tip of steering column just metal to metal contact. You can also test continuity from the contact plate or tip of the horn brush out to the horn relay connector on the same blue with yellow stripe wire. All of the other wires for the turn signal are independent of the blue with yellow stripe wire.
Not to confuse things, but some of the 2WD trucks even had their own separate insulator for the horn brush that had the familiar blue with yellow stripe horn button wire. Your truck wouldn't use this style, but it's an example of how that wire is electrically independent of the turn signal.
Here I've just stuck my probe into the terminal for the blue-yellow wire
Set my meter for the continuity setting on the ohms scale.
And...it shows about .022 ohms at the lowest. And the audible tone, of course.
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