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I have a 79 Ford f 150, which has a small block ford 302 HO that came off a 92 Ford mustang. It currently has Summit's SUM850303-1 distributor. For a long time now, since 2015, it's been running with all the stock ignition components of the 79 Ford (Starter solenoid, Ballast Resistor that comes from back of ignition switch it's a pink wire, ignition Coil 'FD476 form O'Reilly's' that's for a 79 ford F150) Since this distributor has an Ignition control module (ICM) I've not used the stock Ford F150 ICM. Recently it's been giving me issues like crank no spark and its intermittent. I've been reading the Questions for SUM850303-1 on Summit's site and read that this distributor doesn't need a ballast resistor, and some suggestions are to replace it with a 12v wire that goes to positiveside of coil. Is that as simple as cutting the Pink Resistor wire coming from back of ignition switch, splicing with a 12v wire that goes to the positive side of Ignition coil? Will the ignition coil for 79 Ford f 150 FD476 work or is there a recommended coil I should use instead?
In a recent test, I took off the 'I' Terminal from the starter solenoid This goes to the back of the Ignition switch, Pink wire, which I think is the ballast resistor wire and the truck still started, so i'm wondering if I need that or not....If it started I guess not right lol
So the pink wire goes to this terminal that plugs into the back of the ignition switch.
You're saying take this pink wire out and run a 12 volt line directly to the positive side of the coil? What do you mean by relay is there like a part number you can recommend?
Do you know where I can get this type of terminal?
Your fuse panel looks bad. Those three fuse taps look like a disaster waiting to happen.
That connector should be a "non-insulated open barrel terminal" with a little tab on it that locks into the plug. You need crimp tools for it but it's a pretty common connector. My AA wiring harness had about 30 of them.
If that came off the back on your ignition switch, my guess is that you have more problems so I would consider replacing the plug Ignition Switch - LMC Truck (look at item #4 - pigtail. Splice in with waterproof connectors, that's what I would do.
As far as the relay, you have hundreds of options but I've used this one before with success Pertronix Ignition Power Relay Kit 1965-1985. In the simplest sense, you'll use whatever wire that is going to your distributor now as the trigger. The pink gives 6V but that doesn't matter because it will trigger the relay to pull 12V from the battery. I'm pretty sure you only need the I post from the starter solenoid though and you can remove the pink and brown wires.
Hopefully that helps. Oh yeah, back to that fuse panel. I recommend adding a 3 circuit relay or more so you aren't tapping fuses. Painless wiring makes several options for 12V Key on and 12V BAT power. I've used them in many cars.
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