Brake Proportioning valve
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
I’ve often wondered about that with several companies over the last 10 or 15 years.
I started seeing Ford numbers crop up on packages a while back. But I’ve noticed that at least some of them come from Dennis Carpenter or Scott Drake (LMC too?). Who I think do have things worked out with Ford.
If the resellers are sourcing their parts through one of these companies, or one like them, that might be how they get away with it.
Others will use a close FORD PN (and it takes experience to differentiate) but not exact to get away with it and is usually junk.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
So got the PV done - picked up a new master cylinder, mine is a non-power brakes. I don't have the original as the truck didn't have one when I got it but found something that says 73-79, 2wd - you know all the right stuff. My problem is the push rod pin seems to be short for the pedal. its almost 7 inches to the middle of the bolt hole and every thing I can find says 7 inches is correct for this truck...I have to be missing something unless there is suppose to be some slop play in the pedal like it doesn't actually come all the way forward/up? Im assuming that the starting point for the pedal should be as far up as it can go, maybe its not and starts lower to the floor than I'm thinking
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
My problem is the push rod pin seems to be short for the pedal. its almost 7 inches to the middle of the bolt hole and every thing I can find says 7 inches is correct for this truck...I have to be missing something unless there is suppose to be some slop play in the pedal like it doesn't actually come all the way forward/up?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
If the pedal doesn't or is not suppose to be as far up and toward driver and it should have some slack then I guess I'm okay - just assumed the pedal would have no play once its all installed (all the way depressed to all the way undepressed)
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
There are adjustable push-rods available if the one that came with the MC is an incorrect length.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,591
Likes: 1,171
From: San Jose, CA
I might actually have one. Finding it, however… Now that’s the question!
If I had more time, and if my office didn’t still look like it had just survived the ‘89 earthquake, I might actually be able to put my hands on it. 🙄
Then again, I also have a pretty extensive database on disk. Drilling down into it might take some time too.
I’ll see what I can do.
Now, if 77&79 Rich has his stuff handy…
Question to the OP in the meantime. When the brakes are applied fully, just how far off the floor is it?
How much pedal travel from first push, until it stops?
If I had more time, and if my office didn’t still look like it had just survived the ‘89 earthquake, I might actually be able to put my hands on it. 🙄
Then again, I also have a pretty extensive database on disk. Drilling down into it might take some time too.
I’ll see what I can do.
Now, if 77&79 Rich has his stuff handy…
Question to the OP in the meantime. When the brakes are applied fully, just how far off the floor is it?
How much pedal travel from first push, until it stops?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 9,591
Likes: 1,171
From: San Jose, CA
I forgot to mention one thing w951… With manual brakes, the push rod usually snaps in good and hard into the back of the master cylinder.
This means that once the rod is attached to the pedal arm, the brake pedal can’t actually pull up very far. Like almost none at all.
When you say, yours is free to move up, do you mean it’s actually pulling the rod out of the back of the master cylinder? If so, I don’t think this is a good thing.
in any scenario
I’ve certainly seen this even on original applications, where the little snap ring clip, thingy broke and allowed the pedal rod to float in the back of the piston. But it’s not correct, especially with a new master cylinder,
Some masters have a very shallow piston back, which is usually for power brakes. The manual brake master cylinder should have a very deep well in the back, where the pedal rod snaps into the master.
Did yours come fully assembled with the rod, or was the rod separate in the box?
This means that once the rod is attached to the pedal arm, the brake pedal can’t actually pull up very far. Like almost none at all.
When you say, yours is free to move up, do you mean it’s actually pulling the rod out of the back of the master cylinder? If so, I don’t think this is a good thing.
in any scenario
I’ve certainly seen this even on original applications, where the little snap ring clip, thingy broke and allowed the pedal rod to float in the back of the piston. But it’s not correct, especially with a new master cylinder,
Some masters have a very shallow piston back, which is usually for power brakes. The manual brake master cylinder should have a very deep well in the back, where the pedal rod snaps into the master.
Did yours come fully assembled with the rod, or was the rod separate in the box?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
@1TonBasecamp So the new MC came with a pin that had a circular like tension clamp towards the end - when you finally get it all depressed an in the MC, it does click into place. You can't easily pull out the push rod so that is good. The new MC came with a push rod that appears to match up in size to everything I can find that says - like 6 3/4 to 7 1/2. Center of bolt hole to tip is 7. I think everything is good, probably just my anxiety putting back together and safety and all that. My assumption was the pedal would have no play and be as far forward as it could go but with the push rod clipped into place and does not really slide around, pressure from the master cylinder I think it should go together fine, I hope to get to the whole thing tonight - bleed it out and make sure of no leaks and good pedal pressure...of course that is if I can move one of the hundred other things I got going on to some other night.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
I’ve certainly seen this even on original applications, where the little snap ring clip, thingy broke and allowed the pedal rod to float in the back of the piston. But it’s not correct, especially with a new master cylinder,
Some masters have a very shallow piston back, which is usually for power brakes. The manual brake master cylinder should have a very deep well in the back, where the pedal rod snaps into the master.
Some masters have a very shallow piston back, which is usually for power brakes. The manual brake master cylinder should have a very deep well in the back, where the pedal rod snaps into the master.
Showing your feminine side?
There is a retainer clip and yes it has to be intact to properly locate and retain the push-rod in the MC piston. They are available for service.
FORD BASIC PN 2B224
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 232
Likes: 16
From: Milwaukee USA
Once you get the MC port size and PV valve port sized all correct, it goes together like a snap...haha. Did not get it all bled out but its together - we'll see. Minor win the big picture, good win for me - hate brakes and brake like stuff.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
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