1973 - F100 2WD base model Dentside. I have disc front, drum rear. Couple of quick questions:

1. Provided I pick the same configuration I have (Disc/Drum) - is there any difference between say a F100 valve and a Mustang valve? Appearances are all the same, inlets/outlets are the same but price are in some cases significantly different
2. What is MTBF (mean time between failures) of these things...my reason for this question is right now its all apart, just building so what I don't want is this to be bad and have the whole truck back together. I know, its not like its super hard to get to but just on the waffling of just replacing or tring to figure out if its all good. My better judgement says its 50 years old, just replace and get on with it...hence question 1.

 

The valve itself will work but I'd make sure the tubing threads were the same.

 

There are places on the Internet/YouTube that offer refurbishing of the whole proportioning valve. Quite expensive but it works well after it is reburbished.

 

Jeffs bronco graveyard has aluminum repops that are correct

 

Thanks for the information, I'll go look through and see whats what

 

I had White Post Restorations rebuild mine. Cost $170 in 2014. (They are are in White Post, Va. 540-837-1140.) Like yourself, I was rebuilding the rest of the brake system and did not want to leave this to chance. What led me to the rebuild route was largely a Hot Rod Magazine article that stated that all the proportioning valves for sale at all the parts stores were imported junk. However they did not cite much in the way of evidence. Like you I also wonder what the actual failure rate for these things actually is ?

No problems with my rebuild unit.

 

I got a new valve - probably worth the money. My question now is the original on the truck had a front pin that you'd pull out to aid in bleeding the brakes. All the new ones seem to have a "pin" inside of a nut but its flush and doesn't seem to do anything. This is what's under the little black cover on the front of the valve. Do I have a defective one or is this the way these are now?

 

What you most likely have is a CHI-CON SLOPPY COPY GM VALVE. Where did you source it? PN and vendor?

A PROPORTIONING VALVE is calibrated for individual vehicles. There is no one-fits-all. If it can be rebuilt, send it off. Ask the re-builder if there is a kit available for your valve (STAMPING/CASTING ID NOS).

 

Send it out to be rebuilt. As mentioned, prop valves/distribution blocks are unique based on the model of the truck and the brake system. You can see all of the part numbers here.

https://www.fordification.com/partnos/2B527PDV.htm

 

@KULTULZ I talked to and sourced from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard - claim its not a Chicom piece - probably is but still

 

I went to the website and the only PPV I found was a GM 4W DISC valve (that will explain the PIN on the front of the COMBINATION VALVE as that is a GM design).

Many conversion kit makers are now offering these as it eliminates liability if they recommend a so-called ADJUSTABLE PPV, which can get your butt busted.

A PPV is an engineered part that is designed to work with a particular application(s). There is no interchange or substitution.

In fact, if you modify a stock vehicle with brake/tire swaps, most likely that OEM calibration will not be correct.

Can you point me to the one you are referencing as I may have not found it.

 

This is an older post by NUMBER DUMMY that can help explain -

I lost my 1973/1979 FORD TRUCK MPC (crash) so I cannot go into detail.

The only way they could offer the correct valve is to be sitting on a bunch of NOS.

SOURCE - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/n...ply&p=11877373

 

Here is their ADV -

https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Pro...uctinfo/12564/

How they get away with using a FORD PN (COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT) is beyond me.

 

One of your questions was about failure rate.
Well, if you consider a leaky metering valve (delay valve) a failure (and I do), then in my experience, the failure rate of these new machined brass block types available through many sources, is about 20%
And no, that’s not a typo. I said 20%!
Thats not an MTBF number, of course. That would not even apply, since they fail almost immediately most of the time. So an MTBF might be what, zero?
Some might wait till you’ve been driving the vehicle for a few weeks, but most leaks are noticed almost immediately.

The actual number of failures to function with the other components has been almost zero. An “almost zero” rating is not that good either, when it comes to brakes. But at least limited to only one in my own experience.
All the other failures were simply the leaky metering valve. So if you ignore leaking as a problem, their record is pretty good! 🙄😩😱🤔

Some were fixed by tightening the valve. Some were fixed by having the manufacturer send out a new metering valve. Some others were fixed by removing it, cleaning out any debris and smoothing the sealing surfaces. Then crossing your fingers and reinstalling it.
Some have a metal washer, some have an O-ring, and some have both. But for whatever reason, they often leak.
Granted, it doesn’t usually leave you stranded instantly, and it doesn’t affect braking immediately. But it can.
And you sure hope it doesn’t happen over new paint while you’re not looking. As bad as that is though, when it comes to brakes, that would be the least of your worries.
But no matter what, you’re gonna be unhappy.

We actually stopped selling them separately several years ago. I think we still included them in some kits for a time if the customer wanted, but I always sent them out with a warning.
I’ll have to check to see what our experience has been lately. Maybe some of the manufacturers have gotten their act together. At least a little…

Wilwood came out with their own version a couple of years ago, but I don’t know if it’s the same imported crap, or if they’re having their own made, hopefully to a higher standard.

Report back how your installation goes. And if you get a good one right out of the box.
And unless it’s completely trashed, the general rule of thumb with old parts is, don’t throw your old one away!

 

I’ve often wondered about that with several companies over the last 10 or 15 years.
I started seeing Ford numbers crop up on packages a while back. But I’ve noticed that at least some of them come from Dennis Carpenter or Scott Drake (LMC too?). Who I think do have things worked out with Ford.
If the resellers are sourcing their parts through one of these companies, or one like them, that might be how they get away with it.