Which ECM?? Tried searching.
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Which ECM?? Tried searching.
Have 1990 f250 5.8 e4od 2wd. Truck has been gone through throughly by multiple mechanics. Everything double checked. I want to replace the ecm. There is no numbers on the ecm in the truck. (Tag not legible) VIN: 1FTHF25H2LLB37424. Calibration code:0-76A-R10
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From: Central Mississippi
This thread, post # 65, says it should be F0TF-12A650-R2A
Or could be F0TZ-12A650-R2A if you find one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ber-dummy.html
Or could be F0TZ-12A650-R2A if you find one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ber-dummy.html
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How so? If the '90 I pulled parts from this weekend still had it's ECM, I'd have tried it in my truck for funsies. Without any technical knowledge I assume I'd lose the ability to look at data from the sensors with the '90 ECM vs my Z2D1 ECM. It's worth noting my truck isn't a factory 351, someone swapped it in along with that Z2D1. I haven't been able to date the Z2D1.
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From: Central Mississippi
It has been proven time & time again that , YES many computers from many years & configurations WILL indeed make some trucks with many different engines & transmissions actually crank, run & sometimes move.
But the ones actually designed for the calibration number are the best way to go.
As opposed to the "just throw this in there 'cause I had success" theory of operation.
The OP is interested in finding the actually correct computer as opposed to a "make work" replacement.
YRMV.
But the ones actually designed for the calibration number are the best way to go.
As opposed to the "just throw this in there 'cause I had success" theory of operation.
The OP is interested in finding the actually correct computer as opposed to a "make work" replacement.
YRMV.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 60
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This thread, post # 65, says it should be F0TF-12A650-R2A
Or could be F0TZ-12A650-R2A if you find one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ber-dummy.html
Or could be F0TZ-12A650-R2A if you find one.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ber-dummy.html
I did find that thread but was skeptical of the response since that was the one that came out the truck and he said it was tampered with I was looking for a 2nd verification that that IS the correct ecm. This truck has been a nightmare for years so I’m really looking for the correct ecm. We did open it up didn’t really see anything obvious but for the price of an ecm and the age of this truck with these having known issues, the ecm is original and having shops charge me and not fix anything I want an ECM.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Mississippi
Not sure what/where Sandy got his conformation, just know he's good about that.
Also that the prefix numbers on the engineering number do match the year. (FOTF)
Don't know what criteria that poster used to considered it tampered with. Looked pretty original to me.
Don't see any R2As on Rock, just an "RA" suffix.
Have you gone to Cardone's site & done a drill down for your computer? It's been a while since I did a search.
Also that the prefix numbers on the engineering number do match the year. (FOTF)
Don't know what criteria that poster used to considered it tampered with. Looked pretty original to me.
Don't see any R2As on Rock, just an "RA" suffix.
Have you gone to Cardone's site & done a drill down for your computer? It's been a while since I did a search.
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Joined: May 2024
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It has been proven time & time again that , YES many computers from many years & configurations WILL indeed make some trucks with many different engines & transmissions actually crank, run & sometimes move.
But the ones actually designed for the calibration number are the best way to go.
As opposed to the "just throw this in there 'cause I had success" theory of operation.
The OP is interested in finding the actually correct computer as opposed to a "make work" replacement.
YRMV.
But the ones actually designed for the calibration number are the best way to go.
As opposed to the "just throw this in there 'cause I had success" theory of operation.
The OP is interested in finding the actually correct computer as opposed to a "make work" replacement.
YRMV.
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Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,220
Likes: 805
All else fails, you could always get a compatible ECM and then have it programmed to be the calibration you have. bubt this could be difficult, im not sure if ford dealers are still equipped to do this or not. If not, then youd be looking at the EEC-IV tuning crowd, and one of the big names in the sector recently shut down.
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rip it out and install a carb with standalone trans control. Not what I want to do but this is a super clean truck and has been completely gone through with all new parts several times, everything double checked and replaced if needed. No codes.
Nobody around here can work on these anymore. They can’t plug into it they are clueless.
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The success rate of carb conversions judging from those who say that's their plan & later return to say they made work is abysmal.
Just sayin'...
In 90 there are only 3 options for a 5.8, Manual, C6 & the E4. There's the correct box & there's others that will work fine.
When you say "no codes" are you getting nothing or are you getting a pass code 11?
Does the check engine light illuminate at start & go out or is dead?
Does the truck run right, medium or bad?
Just sayin'...
In 90 there are only 3 options for a 5.8, Manual, C6 & the E4. There's the correct box & there's others that will work fine.
When you say "no codes" are you getting nothing or are you getting a pass code 11?
Does the check engine light illuminate at start & go out or is dead?
Does the truck run right, medium or bad?
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 60
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The success rate of carb conversions judging from those who say that's their plan & later return to say they made work is abysmal.
Just sayin'...
In 90 there are only 3 options for a 5.8, Manual, C6 & the E4. There's the correct box & there's others that will work fine.
When you say "no codes" are you getting nothing or are you getting a pass code 11?
Does the check engine light illuminate at start & go out or is dead?
Does the truck run right, medium or bad?
Just sayin'...
In 90 there are only 3 options for a 5.8, Manual, C6 & the E4. There's the correct box & there's others that will work fine.
When you say "no codes" are you getting nothing or are you getting a pass code 11?
Does the check engine light illuminate at start & go out or is dead?
Does the truck run right, medium or bad?
Lead Driver
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yes I’ve been down this road a million times even with multiple “mechanics” who swore up and down they’d have it fixed in a day. Last one had it 2 weeks. It’s stock other then the egr was removed years ago. (Ran fine for years before so I know it’s not the egr being remove) so sometimes it does throw the code for it but it has the dummy plug installed. The truck runs pretty decent driving on the highway but around town it just seems like it’s rich. It will stall all the time at stop lights and when changing gears. Sometimes the fuel pump sticks on with key on but recently hasn’t been doing that. When I start it in the garage even with door open it’s literally like a minute or 2 and it burns your eyes out your skull it’s running so rich.