Does your tailgate shut without holding the lever up? Styleside.

 

It will if I "semi-slam" it. Typically, I pull the handle out and more gently "push" it closed, then I will release the handle.

I'll then give it a tug to make sure it latched.

 

I'm sure mine will if I shut it hard or slam it.
That's what ruins the latching mechanisms.
I NEVER shut it without lifting up the latch first.

 

My tailgate would only close by my lifting up on the handle.
I had read somewhere that you didn't need to lift the handle if the mechanisms, handle, latches etc were lubed up properly.
I WD40 sprayed everything down and my tailgate now closes as smooth as a jar of Skippy without lifting up the handle and without slamming it- just a gentle push closes it- but I still do lift the handle about 50% of the time.
Hose it down with your favorite lube!
Tbruz

 

I guess I could SLAM mine shut, if I tried hard enough, but why? Yes they do NOT close like todays newer trucks, that for sure. So when I close mine, I lift the handle, push it closed, hold it there and then release the handle. Then give it a tug to be latched check. On one old truck I had to push the handle back down.

Yes WD-40, Sea Foam Deep Creep, PB blaster or even Lucas Red N Tacky spray grease. A long term spray lube is the best.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lucas-Oil...RoCtSMQAvD_BwE

 

Same here, a little lube and everything adjusted it just clicks closed. Same for doors, no doors of any kind ever get slammed while I own.

 

Well I thought it should close without excessive slaming or holding the handle up but even with new hardware I have to lift the handle. slamming will not close it. Just nit picking. I also notice a little slack left in the handle when closed.

Thanks for the replies!

 

Mine was like that to some extent a few years ago, and I tried new rubber bumpers, etc. In '21/'22 when I finally did a redo involving a new tailgate too, I determined to fix it. I had lubed my hardware from outside, but then I was transferring hardware and took the opportunity to grease them.too. I found I also had too much rubber bumpers, so I removed some, and I used a Dremel to smooth, polish my latches where they meet the bed side loops. I slightly enlarged the loops, and took maybe 1/16 off the latch bars at the tips. The Dremel tool work had the greatest effect, but after looking at the mechanisms I saw how it was good to sprary lube inward along the top of the latches as the tailgate was open, using the straw. I am easy on my tailgate, easier than I used to be ..... but now I also know there's no longer a thick rubber bumper there, more like thin rubber pads.

If you even think about pulling the latches apart, know that mine were all OEM in the OEM tailgate and never had been removed ... and the square welded nuts inside the tail gate broke loose as I tried removing the bolts. To get to them, to stop them turning, I plotted where they broke loose weld nuts were, and drilled 3/8" holes from inside the tailgate to allow me to weld the nuts to the tailgate to stop them turning, without welding threads. Them most useful work I did on my tailgate latches did not require removal.

With those thick bumpers, I could not push the tailgate shut enough to then let the handle close and ensure a shut tailgate. With my thin rubber pads and after massaging the latch bar bevels and the loops, I can pull the handle, gently push the tailgate closed, then let go and it's firmly latched. I do test it though.

My original doors in original flattened door seals were like that. Not saying yours are worn or flattened ... just that I remember the feeling of a gentle pull and click. Since putting new rubber around the doors, etc ... just a mild closing only works on my doors if a window is open at least halfway, or maybe if the vents in kick panels are open. If winter, the vents are shut (I keep vents shut if parked as critter control), and if windows are all up, a regular gentle door shut move results in several follow up attempts, and finally a firm push as shut with the flat hand beside the door handle towards rear of door .... like if I'm locking the truck up after use or to walk into Lowe's, etc.

If I have a glass rolled down, a regular shut works. If I'm in the truck prepping to drive, an open window allows the door to shut easily.

If no windows are open, I must reach across my chest with my far side hand and grasp my inside door pull (no finger cups, they are real alloy door pulls) to firmly pull to "full shut" to assure a correctly shut door.

 

I've got a wife, friend, and dad who slam the doors closed on all of my vehicles.......

I hate to get upset with them but I constantly have to remind them that while the vehicle may be old the doors latch easily and they don't have to be slammed.

 

I hate people who slam doors etc. Just oblivious I guess.

 

My cousin drove a 73 Monte Carlo, first time she was in my Tbird when she slammed the door I thought it might come in the car. I rode with her the next time.