Have 1965f100 and put new brakes and all the brake lines on but can not get fluid to go though front or rear.

 

Did you put a new master cylinder on? If so, did you bench bleed it?

 

Do you have no brakes or is there no fluid coming out of the open lines?

 

I am with Crop Duster with the new master.
If it was not bench bleed forget getting any fluid out of it.

If it was bleed on the bench then I would open a fitting closest to the master and see if fluid comes out.
Once you have fluid then move to the next fitting down and do the same, etc. till you are at each wheel.

You did not say is this a dual or single master?
If single and not a 100 point show truck now would be a good time to go with a dual master for safety reasons.
Dave ----

 

I've never bench bled a master in my life. I fill the master up halfway, give it a few long, slow pumps, watch the bubbles come up, then I'll gravity bleed the farthest wheel, working to the closest, opening the bleeder until the bubbles stop and steady fluid runs out. Then I go and fetch a helper to work the pedal and bleed any remaining air out of each wheel. I've also used a power bleeder when an extra foot wasn't available.

 

If no other work other than the master change out there is no need for a helper or to bleed the full system.
Because you did not bench bleed the master as soon as you push the pedal you put air into the system.

Bench bleed and put the rubber caps back in the ports.
Bolt the master up to the fire wall or booster.
Pull 1 plug at a time to hook up the lines.
Hit the pedal a few times to test, top off and you are done.
The little bit of air that might get in when hooking up the lines goes into the master and you never feel it as a soft pedal.
Dave ----

 

I disagree. The initial pump of the brake pedal is done with one (the farthest) bleeder open, to start the gravity bleed.
I’ve been a mechanic all my life. Ford, GM and Chrysler trained. I’ve done disc upgrades, hardline, etc. on many many makes/models. Complete systems with dry lines, wheel cylinders and calipers.
The final bleed always yields zero air in the system, solid pedal.
Solid pedal on both of my own trucks. This is my 72 disc/drum setup.

 

The bench bleed is on a fluid filled system that only the master is being changed out.
Doing it the way I posted and there is no need for bleeding the full system other than to flush the old fluid out.

I still bench bleed a dry system and gravity bleed at each wheel till I get fluid then a full bleed of the system.
My truck's brake system, swap from manual to power, was open for a few years, new wheel cyl and calipers rubber hoses and dry lines, so that was the only way to get the system wet again.
What messed me up on my truck was a bad used master & booster from my parts truck. You would think they were good when the truck was rolled on its roof LOL Well I think it rolled because of the bad master & booster. They felt good in the garage but on the road they failed!

And to top it off the replacement master did not feel 100% right and failed a short time after install.
I also have a pressure bleeder for bleeding the best thing I ever made.
Dave ----

ps I also had my own shop. We each do things different for the same out come

 

I have always bench bled a master before installing one. Just did one last Wednesday on my Ambassador wagon since the front hoses had fatigue cracks. So do everything to be good from one known date.