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A friend told me he put some stainless brake lines on his 99' SD and it helped on his truck. Anyone have any experience with braided stainless lines on their SD? Help or Not? What brand did you get?
Firstly, find a set that is DOT Approved. I've heard horror stories of non-teflon coated hoses freezing up or the braiding cutting through the inner line. Russel makes some really nice pre-assembled DOT hoses.
How they help is the outer steal braiding doesn't let the inner rubber tube expand as it comes under a hundred pounds of pressure or so. I haven't got around to putting them on my truck yet, but I do want to do a set. I've used them on other vehicles and they do work great and look good.
Factory lines are braided lines as well, just with an outer protective covering. Cut one in half and you'll see.
Only under EXTREME conditions will a line of any sort, "expand", unless of course a line is damaged. And by extreme, brake fluid temps need to see 500* plus. If that's the case, then you need more than off-the-shelf fluid, pads and rotors.
Most every one who changes from the factory lines to the braided lines reports an improved "feel". Stands to reason. It's the fluid change, and not the necessarily the line change.
I fabricate and race 3000lb, 300horse road race cars. Brakes can be an issue. I've seen more than one competitor get caught up in the brake line hype and neglect other components of the braking system.
Nothing beats fresh fluid and a proper brake pad for quick, firm, controlled stops.
And before any one asks, yes, I have aftermarket braided lines on my race cars. But, it's because I converted to -3 AN for ease of repair and placement rather than any performance advantage.
Isn't the braiding in the stock lines just nylon? I had one rub through on my old F150 and it' was had only a couple of strands of nylon to reinforce the rubber.
Isn't the braiding in the stock lines just nylon? I had one rub through on my old F150 and it' was had only a couple of strands of nylon to reinforce the rubber.
It's some sort of synthetic web, not sure if it's nylon or not. Every cross section I've seen is a solid web that reinforces the circumference of the pressurized hose. And there is a prtective covering over that.
I have seen steel braided lines begin leaking at the radius of a bend. Not sure why it happened, could only speculate that dirt/debris worked it's way between the braid and pressurized line and acted like sand paper. and that sucks when you mash the brake pedal at a buck-thiry and nothing happens. It also sucks when dump $80 a litre brake fluid out of the system.
My view is that SS brake lines are a good upgrade but don't take the place of routine maintenance (like mitchntx said). I have them on my motorcycles and they do give a better feel on the bikes but I'm not sure how much of a difference you would feel on an 8000 lb truck. As for lines expanding. The older the lines get the more they will expand due to fatigue of the materials. If you go the SS line route get a set with a protective coating (vinyl normally) to keep from having the wear problems like mitchntx mentioned.
I think I'll give the braided lines a shot, they are not that expensive. Does anyone use any special brake fluid or is their better brake fluid out their that isn't overly expensive. (I'm not paying $80 a liter for brake fluid)
The few I've had the misfortune of destroying didn't have any more reinforcement than a vacuum hose. they just used a really small ID with a big OD. From what I've seen, the braided offers a lot more strength.
I've heard of that problem like I said earlier with non-teflon lined hoses. Brake lines move more than most others and the teflon is supposed to give it some lubrication. That's how it was explained to me any way.
LOL ... It's in my road race car, not in my truck.
Castrol SRF is the ****. I've had the same fluid in my car since 05 ... 3 seasons ... 18 weekends and 4 races per weekend ... I went to a Texas High school and can't do trigo-geome-bra, but you get the idea.
I do open the bleeder valves when pressing in the pistons to replace the pads, but that's the only bleeding I do.
Motul RBF gave me a very "spngy" pedal when the brakes got up to temp. And once you got them really hot, it turned into the green slimey looking ick.
Don't misunderstand ... there is absolutely nothing wrong with installing steel braided, DOT approved brake lines. But I contend, it's not the reason for a hard pedal and that factory brake lines in good shape do a good job for 99% of the street driving we all do.
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