2012 F-250 No Dome Lights
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 220
Likes: 27
My '11 developed this symptom several mos ago. Based upon research I assumed it was the BCM, but haven't done anything about it.
I will say I had to pull my BCM to replace the blower (this was AFTER the dome light failure and not related to the failure) and even on my '11 XL it's got WAY more plugs than should be legal. I suspect as you get closer to '16 and with a Lariat/KR package the BCM only gets more complex.
I'd gladly return to the days when my dome light was triggered by a momentary door switch and maybe throw in a crude timer for battery safety -- although even the timer is optional. I don't really need my dome light to softly fade out or for all lights to come on with keyless unlock, or 98% of the things the BCM does.
Sorry, what were we talking about....? Oh yeah: how many of us have lost dome lights because of overcomplication!!
I will say I had to pull my BCM to replace the blower (this was AFTER the dome light failure and not related to the failure) and even on my '11 XL it's got WAY more plugs than should be legal. I suspect as you get closer to '16 and with a Lariat/KR package the BCM only gets more complex.
I'd gladly return to the days when my dome light was triggered by a momentary door switch and maybe throw in a crude timer for battery safety -- although even the timer is optional. I don't really need my dome light to softly fade out or for all lights to come on with keyless unlock, or 98% of the things the BCM does.
Sorry, what were we talking about....? Oh yeah: how many of us have lost dome lights because of overcomplication!!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
You said it! I also have a battery drain that’s been somewhat intermittent for the past year. Doing some troubleshooting, it seems to lead to the TPMS. Then during testing everything turns to normal and the spike in resting drain seems to go away. Guess this is the world we live in. I noticed a feature in the BCM on ForScan listed as “Battery Saver” it’s disabled. Wondering if I should enable it. Maybe will help with my issue.
However I don't actually know what the feature you saw truly is.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 220
Likes: 27
The Self Test Fixed it! DTC's B10F1 - key in switch, B1175- Driver's Door Ajar Switch, B1305- Hood Switch, and B1313- Interior Lighting Output were the codes that came up. The Driver's door was open when I performed the test, I do have the hood switch jumped with a wire because the alarm kept going off. Other codes anything to worry about?
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
and B1313- Interior Lighting Output were the codes that came up.
As long as the underlying fault has been fixed, you're in good shape.
Note regarding that video above as well as any conclusion that the BCM must be replaced. It is premature to go to that conclusion without also checking for either U1000 or U3000 BCM DTCs. The first is non-fatal and resettable by successfully running the BCM self-test with the scan tool (after the underlying short circuit is corrected). The U300 is a permanent failure and requires the BCM to be replaced in order to completely repair the system. Replacement of the BCM requires the use of a scan tool to first upload the module configuration and then to download that data into the new BCM so that it is properly configured.
Last edited by projectSHO89; Feb 7, 2026 at 06:59 AM.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 220
Likes: 27
Yep, that's the one that indicated the FET protection circuit was tripped for the dome lights. You likely also had a U1000:00.
As long as the underlying fault has been fixed, you're in good shape.
Note regarding that video above as well as any conclusion that the BCM must be replaced. It is premature to go to that conclusion without also checking for either U1000 or U3000 BCM DTCs. The first is non-fatal and resettable by successfully running the BCM self-test with the scan tool (after the underlying short circuit is corrected). The U300 is a permanent failure and requires the BCM to be replaced in order to completely repair the system. Replacement of the BCM requires the use of a scan tool to first upload the module configuration and then to download that data into the new BCM so that it is properly configured.
As long as the underlying fault has been fixed, you're in good shape.
Note regarding that video above as well as any conclusion that the BCM must be replaced. It is premature to go to that conclusion without also checking for either U1000 or U3000 BCM DTCs. The first is non-fatal and resettable by successfully running the BCM self-test with the scan tool (after the underlying short circuit is corrected). The U300 is a permanent failure and requires the BCM to be replaced in order to completely repair the system. Replacement of the BCM requires the use of a scan tool to first upload the module configuration and then to download that data into the new BCM so that it is properly configured.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,920
Likes: 515
I kinda want to kidnap @projectSHO89 and lock him in a shed and force him to diag all electrical problems for me.....kinda like how bad actors kidnap nuclear scientists. Who's with me?? 
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 220
Likes: 27
Yep, that's the one that indicated the FET protection circuit was tripped for the dome lights. You likely also had a U1000:00.
As long as the underlying fault has been fixed, you're in good shape.
Note regarding that video above as well as any conclusion that the BCM must be replaced. It is premature to go to that conclusion without also checking for either U1000 or U3000 BCM DTCs. The first is non-fatal and resettable by successfully running the BCM self-test with the scan tool (after the underlying short circuit is corrected). The U300 is a permanent failure and requires the BCM to be replaced in order to completely repair the system. Replacement of the BCM requires the use of a scan tool to first upload the module configuration and then to download that data into the new BCM so that it is properly configured.
As long as the underlying fault has been fixed, you're in good shape.
Note regarding that video above as well as any conclusion that the BCM must be replaced. It is premature to go to that conclusion without also checking for either U1000 or U3000 BCM DTCs. The first is non-fatal and resettable by successfully running the BCM self-test with the scan tool (after the underlying short circuit is corrected). The U300 is a permanent failure and requires the BCM to be replaced in order to completely repair the system. Replacement of the BCM requires the use of a scan tool to first upload the module configuration and then to download that data into the new BCM so that it is properly configured.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,768
Likes: 1,082
From: St Louis
Start by checking the fuses F09 & F10 in the SJB. If both are good, proceed to scan the SJB for any relevant DTCs. Note that the DTCs for this older SD truck will be different than those previously discussed.
I kinda want to kidnap @projectSHO89 and lock him in a shed and force him to diag all electrical problems for me.....kinda like how bad actors kidnap nuclear scientists. Who's with me?? 
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 220
Likes: 27
Ford use the SJB and BCM terminology somewhat interchangeably. On the '08, both the interior (dome) and the cargo lights are operated by FETs as has been discussed in this thread. The two functions are on two separate circuits.
Start by checking the fuses F09 & F10 in the SJB. If both are good, proceed to scan the SJB for any relevant DTCs. Note that the DTCs for this older SD truck will be different than those previously discussed.
Lol! I'm an expensive pet....
Start by checking the fuses F09 & F10 in the SJB. If both are good, proceed to scan the SJB for any relevant DTCs. Note that the DTCs for this older SD truck will be different than those previously discussed.
Lol! I'm an expensive pet....
Yes, maybe next you can figure out why the '12 is draining the battery in a few days. Have been investigating that for some time, thought it was narrowed down to the TPMS but not certain yet.
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