Truck Running Hot
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 159
Likes: 9
Truck Running Hot
1972 F250 360
Truck is running hot. The thermostat is opening, looked in the radiator and it's rather crusty. Just bought this about 5 months ago and now getting around to taking a better look.
Have any of you used any of the flushes? Or has anyone used a radiator shop to have them flush it out?
It's the original radiator, doesn't leak so I'd like to keep it. Or if anyone has any other ideas about what I might look at that's causing the overheating that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Truck is running hot. The thermostat is opening, looked in the radiator and it's rather crusty. Just bought this about 5 months ago and now getting around to taking a better look.
Have any of you used any of the flushes? Or has anyone used a radiator shop to have them flush it out?
It's the original radiator, doesn't leak so I'd like to keep it. Or if anyone has any other ideas about what I might look at that's causing the overheating that would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 739
Likes: 256
From: Zimmerman, MN
Off the top of my head:
First step: Backflush the system. I use the Prestone "T-kit", and flush, both available at places like O'Reillys, NAPA, etc
Second step: Check the radiator cap. You can rent a tester at the same places I mention above. (In fact, take the cap with you when you're shopping for the backflush goods.)
Third step: If neither of the above helps, have the radiator boiled-out. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it's not plugged internally.
Fourth step: While the radiator is out, that would be a REAL good time to replace the water pump.
Those are the initial things that come to mind.
Oh! And all are assuming you have no leaks anywhere, such as the thermostat housing, intake manifold, etc.
Good luck!
(Edit: Does your truck have a "solid fan" (my term), or does it have a fan clutch?)
First step: Backflush the system. I use the Prestone "T-kit", and flush, both available at places like O'Reillys, NAPA, etc
Second step: Check the radiator cap. You can rent a tester at the same places I mention above. (In fact, take the cap with you when you're shopping for the backflush goods.)
Third step: If neither of the above helps, have the radiator boiled-out. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it's not plugged internally.
Fourth step: While the radiator is out, that would be a REAL good time to replace the water pump.
Those are the initial things that come to mind.
Oh! And all are assuming you have no leaks anywhere, such as the thermostat housing, intake manifold, etc.
Good luck!
(Edit: Does your truck have a "solid fan" (my term), or does it have a fan clutch?)
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 159
Likes: 9
When you use the Prestone kit, is it necessary to pull the thermostat? And before you flush the system do you run any of the additives to help the cleaning process?
I do have a leak where the manifold meets the exhaust.
I do have a leak where the manifold meets the exhaust.
More Turbo
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 739
Likes: 256
From: Zimmerman, MN
It all depends, sorry. I would leave the stat in-place for the flush, and replace it afterwards, if you feel it's questionable. Why? The system will need to be drained post-flush anyway.
(Heck! I'd probably replace the stat anyway, just as a matter of course, as the system is already drained...)
As for the flush cleaner, I think (but don't quote me on this!) that most flush chemicals recommend that you drain the system, and then fill with clean water, so the chemical(s) has/have a better chance of doing its thing.
So two items at NAPA/O'Reillys/Autozone: Flush "T" kit, and flush solvent. (Oh, and maybe a t'stat and gasket.)
But now I'm curious about the leak "where the manifold meets the exhaust". Any chance you could get a picture of this? I ask because I'm wondering about the possibility of exhaust gases getting into your cooling system at that point.
(Heck! I'd probably replace the stat anyway, just as a matter of course, as the system is already drained...)
As for the flush cleaner, I think (but don't quote me on this!) that most flush chemicals recommend that you drain the system, and then fill with clean water, so the chemical(s) has/have a better chance of doing its thing.
So two items at NAPA/O'Reillys/Autozone: Flush "T" kit, and flush solvent. (Oh, and maybe a t'stat and gasket.)
But now I'm curious about the leak "where the manifold meets the exhaust". Any chance you could get a picture of this? I ask because I'm wondering about the possibility of exhaust gases getting into your cooling system at that point.
Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 68
Likes: 21
I can also confirm the Preston kit posted above does wonders. My dad got one for his 4L Jeep Cherokee decades ago and we still use it to this day. Other things to consider, the coolant most likely is no longer working as it should due to degradation. Another thing that could cause it to run hot would be the timing is advanced too far.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 159
Likes: 9
Here's my big exhaust leak; I bought it this way. Looks like a lot of rot there. I'm going to look into a muffler shop to try and work this out.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,912
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
If the radiator looks "crusty" it is bad and nothing you can do will fix that.
Even using chemicals and leaving them in longer than what they should be will not work either.
If a tube(s) are plugged then the "flush" cant get in to fight the plug.
Good luck finding a radiator shop for 1 and 2 that will "rod" it for you.
They would have to remove 1 of the tanks and then run rods thru each tube to clean them then put the tank back on.
You then have to worry that the tubes dont leak.
This is all labor and say they get $100 an hr it can add up fast.
Then you say "let's re-core it".
Well you have the core $$ and the labor again so again both add up.
With both of the above if you can find a shop that will do it it comes out that a new radiator is cheaper and a faster fix.
I had to replace a radiator 2 times because the flow was low on a test but they told me it was cheaper to go with a new radiator than do anything with them and this was over 15 years ago.
Dave ----
Even using chemicals and leaving them in longer than what they should be will not work either.
If a tube(s) are plugged then the "flush" cant get in to fight the plug.
Good luck finding a radiator shop for 1 and 2 that will "rod" it for you.
They would have to remove 1 of the tanks and then run rods thru each tube to clean them then put the tank back on.
You then have to worry that the tubes dont leak.
This is all labor and say they get $100 an hr it can add up fast.
Then you say "let's re-core it".
Well you have the core $$ and the labor again so again both add up.
With both of the above if you can find a shop that will do it it comes out that a new radiator is cheaper and a faster fix.
I had to replace a radiator 2 times because the flow was low on a test but they told me it was cheaper to go with a new radiator than do anything with them and this was over 15 years ago.
Dave ----
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