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And the factory clutch (what came out was a Valeo) seemed to hold up better than the last two clutches. Every last one of them came out because of a locked up or hogged out pilot bearing, but the last two clutches came out with blown up hubs, too.
Is it possible heat is cooking the grease out of them?
Very possible. That's why I was hopeful that this bronze bushing would do better. I never have trouble with the clutch until I tow the trailer and the engine is working 100% on the slightest uphill slope.
A side note to this is I FINALLY got the overheating problem licked with deglazing the water pump pulley and putting a new fan hub on. I can go up a mountain pass and the fan engages with no slipping belt any more. The fan roars nicely and the temperature gauge doesn't rise any more. Even driving up out of Phoenix on 93 towards Wickenburg. Hot day outside, nice and cool inside with the AC on and the engine not overheating any more.
Dan, I read your very detailed description of your driving habits, but... Do you "rev match" when down shifting into a lower gear from what was previously used when preparing slowing down or preparing to climb a hill?
I am sure you are familiar with the terminology and method, but just to be clear I am writing the right thing I will elaborate.
I too do not have any throttle input until the clutch pedal is full up when taking off from a stop. Although, when going to a lower gear for whatever reason while in motion, I will bring the RPM up to match the vehicle speed so that the shift down to a lower gear will be more smooth and easier. This is very noticeable in the shift handle, at least in my case.
I currently have ~70,000 miles on my oilite bushing paired with a South Bend 1939OHD clutch, machined OEM flywheel and towing a 5th wheel 90% of the time it is on the road.
Dan, I read your very detailed description of your driving habits, but... Do you "rev match" when down shifting into a lower gear from what was previously used when preparing slowing down or preparing to climb a hill?
Yes. I don't use the clutch to get the engine up to speed to match gear speed. Apply throttle. I try to make each transition from one gear to the next as smooth as possible. In upshift and downshift.
I'll add to this discussion that my 2002 Silverado 4.8 liter V-8 stick shift suffered the same fate with 160k on the original clutch. Still worked perfectly, but the pilot bearing was locked up tight and it wore a shallow groove into the input shaft. The reason I pulled that transmission is because the transfer case developed a rock tumbler sound in low range, so I pulled it out to rebuild it. Knowing the complete history on this truck, purchased from the original owner, I decided that 160k miles on the original clutch, throwout bearing and everything else inside the bell housing warrented removing the transmission while I was that far into it anyway. Once out, everything was still in excellent condition except for the seized up pilot bearing. It was a sealed ball bearing design and by that time it was functioning like a bushing. Found a clutch kit that had a hub that mirrored the old clutch disc that came out and reinstalled everything.
I don't know why the Ford likes to self destruct itself like it does.
What about the possibility of loose/worn out motor mounts or transmission mount? Or any other misalignment issue you can think of. Was there any significant repairs done sometime around when the first bearing went out?
What about the possibility of loose/worn out motor mounts or transmission mount? Or any other misalignment issue you can think of. Was there any significant repairs done sometime around when the first bearing went out?
when I replaced the engine new mounts were part of the list.
All this thing has ever done is eat pilot bearings. Clutch always came out with damaged hub because I was always battling the bunny hop from the clutch not staying centered.
I don't know these clutch setups, but is there any possibility of slipping, throw out bearing setup on these? Should be damn near new with your mileage.
You said the springs were in there loose, could that have setup a harmonic or mis alignment that's caused damage?
Second transmission was purchased from a ZF outlet. Basically a factory rebuild. I haven't checked the integrety of the bearings. I'll check that tomorrow, but I bet it's ok. Once in gear, it behaved like it should. I just couldn't get the clutch to completely disengage so I had to turn off the engine to get it into gear and then go from there.
Update. What I did was get a Stage II clutch that included a stock Ford design pilot bearing. Last three clutches came out with a blown up disc hub and I'm theorizing that the engine just works the clutch too hard to survive when I'm pulling the trailer. With 4.88 rear axle, the engine can really spool up on any given hill and run 21 psi boost and I hardly ever have to shift down unless it's a mountain pass or something. And all I've ever run was a stock clutch. Stock engine right? It should hold up, right? Time will tell if this works or not, but this is what I put back in. The bronze bushing was gouged out and no longer usable.
Keep us uprised. Still think it's odd to have repeated problems like that. That bearing is only used for a second or 2 at ea shift.. 10k miles may not even have an hour of total usage.
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