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Hello all. I have a 1986 F-150 and recently took it in to a shop to do a general inspection of the suspension system and they called me back saying my truck is "done." Is this damage to the frame repairable? What can be done? I dont want to junk this truck.
What is the body like? You will definitely need a replacement frame from the wreckers or a donor you get off marketplace. You must live up north somewhere. I am surprised you made it to the shop. That rot is near the steering box. That area takes a lot of strain, even on a frame with no rot.
Where do you live? We might be able to find a donor if you want to change the frame out.
This is what happens to any frame exposed to liquid deicer and not treated with a good anti corrosive. Only takes a few years of exposure to achieve that kind of corrosion. You can even move away from saltlandia and if you don't treat your frame and body the MgCl salts stick like glue and reactivate each time it gets wet from rain.
X2 what Franklin said "I am surprised you made it to the shop. That rot is near the steering box. That area takes a lot of strain, even on a frame with no rot."!
Have you looked the rest of the frame over really good? Rear spring brackets are also known for rusting out.
I would say if the rest of the frame is good and you cant find a full frame for replacement maybe you can find just that front part of the rail back behind the cross member.
It is work but you could then trim your frame and weld in the good one. You can use grade 8 bolts and nuts for the cross member to frame rail where the rivets were.
Might be easier to replace that part of the frame with motor removed.
Dave ----
What is the body like? You will definitely need a replacement frame from the wreckers or a donor you get off marketplace. You must live up north somewhere. I am surprised you made it to the shop. That rot is near the steering box. That area takes a lot of strain, even on a frame with no rot.
Where do you live? We might be able to find a donor if you want to change the frame out.
The body is in great shape. And yes I live outside Philly. The truck is from the Poconos. I've been driving this daily, going across the Delaware River for work commute, delivering food, moving furniture from a recent move 2 weeks ago. Scary to think I could have killed myself and didn't even know it.
The body is in great shape. And yes I live outside Philly. The truck is from the Poconos. I've been driving this daily, going across the Delaware River for work commute, delivering food, moving furniture from a recent move 2 weeks ago. Scary to think I could have killed myself and didn't even know it.
I am sure looking at the frame, that the steering was a little vague. You probably chalked it up to being a "old truck". If the body is in good shape, then it would be worth it find another frame and slip it underneath. If you look for another frame, I would look for a 2wd frame in your area, even if yours is 4wd. They are the same except the rear spring brackets and they can be easily changed. I am thinking a 2wd frame will not be rotted out like a 4x4 frame would be, since the 4x4 would tend to be driven more in the winter slush.
Best would be to make a trip out of it and go south to get yourself a frame, The further south you go, the better. It's amazing to me what North Carolina trucks look like compared to the ones here in Va. My daughter lives in Pa and I know you guys have it even worse than we do.
I am sure looking at the frame, that the steering was a little vague. You probably chalked it up to being a "old truck". If the body is in good shape, then it would be worth it find another frame and slip it underneath. If you look for another frame, I would look for a 2wd frame in your area, even if yours is 4wd. They are the same except the rear spring brackets and they can be easily changed. I am thinking a 2wd frame will not be rotted out like a 4x4 frame would be, since the 4x4 would tend to be driven more in the winter slush.
Best would be to make a trip out of it and go south to get yourself a frame, The further south you go, the better. It's amazing to me what North Carolina trucks look like compared to the ones here in Va. My daughter lives in Pa and I know you guys have it even worse than we do.
So the steering actually just recently became an issue. The steering wheel would be at like 3 o clock for driving straight, and the truck started to sway left to right while driving. The right front tire tread wore down quickly to the point the wires were showing. This all just happened in the past month. Before then, there were no noticeable issues. That's what led me to taking it in to the shop, figuring I had some kind of suspension issue. I'm just surprised that the frame is now broke, it seems so sudden and out of nowhere. The body is not immaculate, there's some knicks and scratches, the paint is faded but still looks good, there's some rust spots on the tailgate. For an almost 40 year old truck I think it's in pretty damn good shape. The engine runs strong. Only ever got stuck one time in my 2 years owning it, and that was just an alternator belt breaking. I would hate to junk this truck if there's a way I can fix it. And btw it is a 2wd 8ft bed. I'm very ignorant on all of this, but how exactly does one go and get a frame?
So any F100 / F150 from 80 to 86 in 2WD and 8 foot bed will work.
Think F250 in 2WD would work also it would be just a little more HD but the above trucks will be 100% good to use.
You can check CL or FB market place and local junk yards.
For CL & FB look for trucks with rusted bodys, check the frames really really good dont want to buy what you got now, no motor / running gear as you can get them cheap as most of the time they just want to get rid of what they got sitting there.
All you really want is the frame, the rest once the frame swap is complete you can sell the good parts to get some money back in your pocket.
The only thing to watch out for is with frame swaps there is a VIN stamped on it and this will no longer match the VIN on the cab door sticker or windshield.
This is only an issue if you sell the truck and DMV goes looking at the VIN's or if someone goes looking for them.
If you can get the title for the good frame that helps. Vary min is a bill of sale with the new frames VIN on it.
Junk yards will know what has to be done with the VIN and they would give you a BoS.
When I gave my parts truck frame away I did not send the title or BoS with it, I forgot to, but if he reaches out I will sent it.
Dave ----
I saw an article in AAA magazine a while back. Based on receipts from Triple A shops they said 3 billion a year in salt damage repairs. That was years ago so with inflation and non Triple A shops and DIYers you can probably factor that number by at least 10.
So any F100 / F150 from 80 to 86 in 2WD and 8 foot bed will work.
Think F250 in 2WD would work also it would be just a little more HD but the above trucks will be 100% good to use.
You can check CL or FB market place and local junk yards.
For CL & FB look for trucks with rusted bodys, check the frames really really good dont want to buy what you got now, no motor / running gear as you can get them cheap as most of the time they just want to get rid of what they got sitting there.
All you really want is the frame, the rest once the frame swap is complete you can sell the good parts to get some money back in your pocket.
The only thing to watch out for is with frame swaps there is a VIN stamped on it and this will no longer match the VIN on the cab door sticker or windshield.
This is only an issue if you sell the truck and DMV goes looking at the VIN's or if someone goes looking for them.
If you can get the title for the good frame that helps. Vary min is a bill of sale with the new frames VIN on it.
Junk yards will know what has to be done with the VIN and they would give you a BoS.
When I gave my parts truck frame away I did not send the title or BoS with it, I forgot to, but if he reaches out I will sent it.
Dave ----
What is a good way to check the frame to make sure it's worth it to buy? I'm not familiar with this stuff. And the frame for my truck I was under the impression it was good and solid. From my own eyes and from what others told me as well.
What is a good way to check the frame to make sure it's worth it to buy? I'm not familiar with this stuff. And the frame for my truck I was under the impression it was good and solid. From my own eyes and from what others told me as well.
In your area, you will need to be very careful. Most frames will have rust up there. You will need to be less careful the further south you go. You still need to be careful, sometimes you get a northern transplant down south.
Tons of them in North Carolina. Reasonably priced also. Just make sure the price includes them taking the frame out from under the donor truck at the yard. Once they get it out you can look it over easily. You will also need to check for accident damage.
Do I see some 88 and newer listings even a 90?
I dont think he can use anything newer than 86 as that is the last year for our body style and our front bumper will bolt to the frame on.
Why geta newer frame and then need to swap the front frame horns just to bolt the bumper back on.
Also his rusted frame may not be good enough far back with the rust to even use like that?
Dave ----
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