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Without any experience on what a good frame should look like it could be a challenge. These frames are made up from common shaped structural steel. Channel sections mainly with some areas box section. You're looking for rust, corrosion, cracks and any odd deformations which could indicate accident damage. The photos you posted show obvious flaws, complete rust through of the steel. If others said the frame was good then they were wrong. Seek better advice next time. Ideally you want smooth, clean, minimal rust and corrosion and bonus if original frame paint still intact. No Swiss cheese.
Thanks for those listings Franklin. So for getting a frame down south, which I agree would be the best option, am I buying the frame and doing the replacement up here? Or am I bringing the truck down to the frame and having the work done down there?
Would you be hiring a shop to do the replace the frame? Realistically, I think the bill for labor alone would be cost prohibitive.
Even if doing the work yourself, there’s another big (read: expensive) factor to consider. Considering the extent of corrosion damage, expect to find lots of secondary problems, too.
Nearly all fasteners will be severely corroded, too. Plan on a nasty fight to remove them, plus the expense to replace them.
Brake and fuel lines may have severe corrosion damage, too. Even if not too bad, the mounting clips may be seized and won’t let you remove the lines intact.
Shock mounts, spring bushings, fuel tank straps, the list goes on.
If doing the work yourself, do you have adequate facilities? It’s no small feat to hoist the cab, bed, and entire drivetrain.
Hate to rain on your parade, but replacing the frame is going to be a major undertaking with lots of potential pitfalls.
Would you be hiring a shop to do the replace the frame? Realistically, I think the bill for labor alone would be cost prohibitive.
Even if doing the work yourself, there’s another big (read: expensive) factor to consider. Considering the extent of corrosion damage, expect to find lots of secondary problems, too.
Nearly all fasteners will be severely corroded, too. Plan on a nasty fight to remove them, plus the expense to replace them.
Brake and fuel lines may have severe corrosion damage, too. Even if not too bad, the mounting clips may be seized and won’t let you remove the lines intact.
Shock mounts, spring bushings, fuel tank straps, the list goes on.
If doing the work yourself, do you have adequate facilities? It’s no small feat to hoist the cab, bed, and entire drivetrain.
Hate to rain on your parade, but replacing the frame is going to be a major undertaking with lots of potential pitfalls.
No, I would definitely need a shop to do this. I am nowhere near knowledgeable enough to undertake a job like this. I'm just looking for ways to save this truck.
Those areas of the frame must have went unnoticed by myself and others that looked. Because the rest of the frame all the way back is solid.
The area where the steering box is attached is a critical area and frames with no corrosion have failed in that area. When checking a frame that area should be your first place to inspect.
No, I would definitely need a shop to do this. I am nowhere near knowledgeable enough to undertake a job like this. I'm just looking for ways to save this truck.
If the body is in good shape someone may want it to do a frame swap on it. From what you say about your abilities and facilities you'd be better off selling this one and looking for a suitable replacement. Something that can be your daily driver, work truck, as needed.
Do I see some 88 and newer listings even a 90?
I dont think he can use anything newer than 86 as that is the last year for our body style and our front bumper will bolt to the frame on.
Why geta newer frame and then need to swap the front frame horns just to bolt the bumper back on.
Also his rusted frame may not be good enough far back with the rust to even use like that?
Dave ----
We just had a guy on here the other day that did a front clip swap and said the front bumper fit ok. I have never done the swap so I do not know, but the car-part interchange is usually good. If they say it will fit, it usually does.
No, I would definitely need a shop to do this. I am nowhere near knowledgeable enough to undertake a job like this. I'm just looking for ways to save this truck.
I would find a shop first, and get a estimate on what it would cost and if you want to invest that in the truck. Frames don't weigh much, if you had another vehicle you could rent a u-haul and go get it. But I would find a shop to do the work first.
I would find a shop first, and get a estimate on what it would cost and if you want to invest that in the truck. Frames don't weigh much, if you had another vehicle you could rent a u-haul and go get it. But I would find a shop to do the work first.
If the body is in good shape someone may want it to do a frame swap on it. From what you say about your abilities and facilities you'd be better off selling this one and looking for a suitable replacement. Something that can be your daily driver, work truck, as needed.
Why isn't paying somebody to do it an option? I don't want another truck if I can keep this one and get it fixed.
Why isn't paying somebody to do it an option? I don't want another truck if I can keep this one and get it fixed.
It's definitely an option. I think the estimates to do the work versus the cost difference of selling your current truck and getting a good daily driver will be your guide.
Ultimately how much money do you want to spend and how much time do you have?
First is finding a shop that will even work on the truck as most only want to touch insurance jobs.
then figure maybe $200 per hour and a month of 40 hour weeks just to start.
Then as said you always find things like hardware brake & fuel lines, radiator support and bushings for body and suspension. And the list goes on.
I know as I did a 4 year cab off frame rebuild using 2 Trucks to make 1.
If i had to pay a shop to do what i did i could have bought a new truck LOL
Dave ----
First is finding a shop that will even work on the truck as most only want to touch insurance jobs.
then figure maybe $200 per hour and a month of 40 hour weeks just to start.
Then as said you always find things like hardware brake & fuel lines, radiator support and bushings for body and suspension. And the list goes on.
I know as I did a 4 year cab off frame rebuild using 2 Trucks to make 1.
If i had to pay a shop to do what i did i could have bought a new truck LOL
Dave ----
Exactly my point Dave. If it could be farmed out at $200/hr for 160 hrs that's $32,000 bucks. Even at half that cost it's $16,000 say you find a cut rate shop or independent mechanic. Looking at used Ford Pickup trucks south of the Mason Dixon line, ie no salt, you can find a lot of 80's to 90's pickups in the range of $2500 to $7500 available. I just browsed a few major southern cities on Craigslist. If I needed a truck I'd take a weeks vacation and head south and look at some, maybe drive a new truck home? A truck with a bad frame but a good body and engine is worth 1 to 2 thousand. There are guys like Dave out there looking for a donor body or engine.
The OP will have to do the math for his truck, factor in any sentimental value of the current truck and make a choice of rebuild project or a "new to you" truck. These trucks are often family trucks that have a history and a familiarity. We even name them. So I don't mean to look past that personal meaning and value. Only you can make that choice.
Some of us, with the early Bull Nose trucks, have factory installed "Swiss cheese"....
That said, there's a lot of good advice here and I feel a little sorry for the OP. Aside from the frame, clearly a decent truck. But, without the knowledge/ability/time to do the swap, he's in a tough spot. I would also include Tennessee and Kentucky in the search area. I bought a really nice '85 Ranger from Louisville and I had no issues with corrosion.
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