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I completely disassembled the ecm and moved that connector around, like I said didn't see anything. of coarse when I plug it back in I can't trigger it any more, but it still dies going down the road. I bet I flexed something just right and it isn't breaking that connection the same now.
What is the best way to get an ecm, the local scrap yard only has 460 and 351 trucks with the e4od which of coarse don't work in mine.
I guess I'm just asking where I should order one from, and which ones I should stay away from.
Also does anyone sell an actually new ecm for these old trucks or are the reman units ok.
I completely disassembled the ecm and moved that connector around, like I said didn't see anything. of coarse when I plug it back in I can't trigger it any more, but it still dies going down the road. I bet I flexed something just right and it isn't breaking that connection the same now.
What is the best way to get an ecm, the local scrap yard only has 460 and 351 trucks with the e4od which of coarse don't work in mine.
I guess I'm just asking where I should order one from, and which ones I should stay away from.
Also does anyone sell an actually new ecm for these old trucks or are the reman units ok.
They're all reman. No one produces them new. From what I've read, I would go to your local parts store, module mechanics or rock Auto. Stay away from flagship one.
You need either the label from your ECM, if it's original, or the catch code calibration information off of the sticker on your B pillar, when you open your driver's side door.
after the computer gets warm I can trigger the engine to die, and when i do it is hard to get it back running again.
these first 3 pictures are of the ecm that is in it, it is not the original and judging by the date on one of the chips inside it is from a 1989 model. maybe there is a useful number on it.
this last picture is the door tag, and I have read that I should see my calibration code but I don't know which one it is.
The only parts store with in a reasonable distance are Napa, auto-zone, oreilly, and bumper to bumper. I normally go to Napa if I can get there before they close, they close at 5, because they're the closest and I know the people. but would you get it from one of them or order one online. if online who is best.
Also I had thought I could use any ecu for a speed density 302 that has an aod.
I have also read that if it is all you can find an ecm for a manual will work fine other than maybe a lower than normal idle, don't get me wrong I plan on getting the right one for my truck.
after the computer gets warm I can trigger the engine to die, and when i do it is hard to get it back running again.
these first 3 pictures are of the ecm that is in it, it is not the original and judging by the date on one of the chips inside it is from a 1989 model. maybe there is a useful number on it.
this last picture is the door tag, and I have read that I should see my calibration code but I don't know which one it is.
The only parts store with in a reasonable distance are Napa, auto-zone, oreilly, and bumper to bumper. I normally go to Napa if I can get there before they close, they close at 5, because they're the closest and I know the people. but would you get it from one of them or order one online. if online who is best.
Also I had thought I could use any ecu for a speed density 302 that has an aod.
I have also read that if it is all you can find an ecm for a manual will work fine other than maybe a lower than normal idle, don't get me wrong I plan on getting the right one for my truck.
I would go to Napa. I think module mechanics is best, from what I've read on different forums about buying on line.
You know the people at Napa and maybe you can get a warranty.
Post 18 at this thread has a picture of the calibration code https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...backfires.html
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