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forgot to mention when it does die out the only gauge that moves is the tack, straight down instantly all the way to the peg and when it starts back running again it goes back up just as quick.
I'm testing power and ground for the tfi I get 12 volts to the tfi for power, but for the ground I get 12 if the key is off and only about 8 if the key is on.
in my case it is black with and orange strip, leading to pin 16 on the ecm connector labeled "ing gnd" so I test the resistance between them basically none. pins 20,40,and 60 all have ground. does all that seem right?
I don't think the 3rd or 4th test is really going to show any issue because they work at least the majority of the time,and you know they would never act up when your looking at them
I'm testing power and ground for the tfi I get 12 volts to the tfi for power, but for the ground I get 12 if the key is off and only about 8 if the key is on.
in my case it is black with and orange strip, leading to pin 16 on the ecm connector labeled "ing gnd" so I test the resistance between them basically none. pins 20,40,and 60 all have ground. does all that seem right?
I don't think the 3rd or 4th test is really going to show any issue because they work at least the majority of the time,and you know they would never act up when your looking at them
I'm a little foggy right now because I'm working night shift.
When you say there's "basically no resistance", are you testing for resistance from the ignition control module black with orange stripe, to pin 16 of the ECM connector? Try that with the ignition control module unplugged and the ECM connector unplugged.
Also with the ignition control module unplugged and the ECM unplugged, check for continuity between pins 16, 36 and 56, at the ECM connector. There should be no continuity. If there is continuity between any of those three pins, wiggle the harness around, near the driver's side fender and see if the resistance changes.
Also, check the ground connection near the driver's side hood hinge and make sure it's clean and tight.
I'm not sure if the voltage drop when you turn the key on is normal or not. I may have a better answer later tonight, when I'm more awake.
I'm a little foggy right now because I'm working night shift.
When you say there's "basically no resistance", are you testing for resistance from the ignition control module black with orange stripe, to pin 16 of the ECM connector? Try that with the ignition control module unplugged and the ECM connector unplugged.
Also with the ignition control module unplugged and the ECM unplugged, check for continuity between pins 16, 36 and 56, at the ECM connector. There should be no continuity. If there is continuity between any of those three pins, wiggle the harness around, near the driver's side fender and see if the resistance changes.
Also, check the ground connection near the driver's side hood hinge and make sure it's clean and tight.
I'm not sure if the voltage drop when you turn the key on is normal or not. I may have a better answer later tonight, when I'm more awake.
Also, with both the ignition control module and the ECM connectors unplugged, check for continuity between the ground at the driver's side hood hinge and pins 16, 36 and 56. There should be no continuity.
yes I am just testing the ground wire between the tfi connector and the ecm connector, yes I have them both unplugged. By basically no resistance I mean it's just about what I expect the a solid wire to be at.
The ground wire by the hood hinge looks fine, and is tight.
16 36 and 56 do not connect to to the ground next to hinge
Tested between the pins themselves, and none of them are connected to each other with the tfi and ecm connectors disconnected.
Thought why not measure resistance between those pins with the tfi module plugged in.
-between pins 16 and 56 I measured around 150 ohms
-between pins 16 and 36 I measured around 7k ohms
-between pins 36 and 56 I measured around 6k ohms
just curious if there would be a spec for those resistance readings?
It sounds to me like you need a new Ignition Control Module. I would do it like post 9 at this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...placement.html
Here are tests you can do, once you remove the module from the distributor.
I wouldn't cheap out on this. Try to buy a quality one.
I ran by the local scrap yard today to see if I could find an ignition module, they only want 20 bucks, figured it would be worth a shot. But all the trucks they have out there use the fender mount module. So I go to tell them I couldn't find one on my way out, and it turns out one of the guys working there likes these old truck a good bit. He said he had a good one at home, I'm supposed to pick up Monday. hopefully that will do it. If it does work I'll got to Napa and get the one they have in stock to keep as a spare and make sure to have the tool in the truck at all times.
of coarse the tfi module was a good excuse for me to hunt down an air box and stiffer rear springs to get in the future to.
also looking at the chart there, if ground and pip in should have more than 500 ohms, I would think that ignition ground to pip out would read higher, right ?
but it only reads 150 ohms.
Nice that the guy has one for you.
If the 150 Ohm reading you're referring to, was taken with the ICM still attached to the distributor, remember that you're reading through the PIP sensor in the distributor.
today it died like 7 times within just a minute, so i decided to pull codes and as suspected 14 came back. apparently when it does it really bad the ecm notices a problem.
He said it may still be on a distributor and if it is it's just going to come as a package deal. If i do get both I'm probably just going to use the new distributor if it is the right one for my 302, that way the next questionable thing, the pip, also gets replaced.
Well the new distributor with tfi already on it didn't fix the problem, in fact it seems to do die more often than it was before.
The distributor looked new, I figure it's a reman unit or possibly a budget after market.
I have read that some reman distributors can come with already faulty pip sensors, Is that possibly why it seems to have gotten worse.
Any way before I mess with that I'm going to open the wire loom going to the tfi up and see if I can find bad insulation, I avoided messing with it because I didn't want to mess up the shielding around all those wires.
Going back to the ECM and fuel pump relays, I know you said they're difficult to access, but that's where I would go next.
Those relays work together every time the key is turned to the run position.
As far as the shielding being an issue, one way to confirm that would be to move the harness around while the engine is running, or while your meter is set up to read resistance between the ground connection near the driver's side hood hinge and pins 16, 36 and 56.
Hang on to your old distributor.
Edit: I just read back through the thread. I see where you wiggled the harness around with the engine running previously. I would definitely go to the ECM and fuel pump relays next.
I would consider putting the original distributor back in.
Do you know if the replacement distributor was correct for your year of truck?
The drive gear on the distributor needs to be cast for your flat tappet cam. Forged drive gears are for roller cams.
Also, the Ignition Control Module should be gray, not black.
It did have the wrong gear on it, but I managed to get them changed around. On top of that the bushings where a bit loose in the old distributor. The tfi is grey
I know the fuel pump relay is good, but I'm going to have the brake the bracket off to get the ecm relay, but when I wiggled the wiring I had also taped on the bracket the ecm relay is in, with no change in the engine runing.
I take the cap of the distributor pretty often because it was a cheap one and it doesn't take long to build up some corrosion. It seems like every time I pull the cap off even if I don't clean it, the frequency of the dyeing changes. Some what randomly, sometimes better sometimes worse.
I saw a thread somewhere that suggest possible break in insulation in the shielded bundle of wires coming from the tfi. Now that I think about the way it seems to change when I pull the cap, of coarse I disturb those wires, seems like a good place to check.
Is the shielding around those wires important, and is there a good way to open it without ruining the shielding?
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