What should I do from here? I started getting misfire code, and def def my engine shaking truck faster I went- going slow seemed pretty ok to get around in emergency. So I was checking spark plug and when I pulled off the coil boot, it looked like a light layer of burnt sludge on the boot. Then put socket on plug and it was very loose. So loose I didnt even think I was turning it. So I tightened it and sure enough, it tightened. So then when I took it out, well see for yourself..... wtf
How would I get the pieces out if even at all?
2004 F150 Lariat 5.4



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Looks like it was a replacement plug with a electro welded ground strap on it, the originals had made on ground straps. It's such a small piece, and short of using an air hose through the plug hole that fits loose enough to allow air out past the hose as you blow air in ... or pulling a head ... don't know a way to get it out as I don't think it's magnetic, but maybe so? Test it with a small slender magnet retrieval tool. It's a very thin piece, not like a bolt, etc ... and there's a good chance it already has blown out through the exhaust.

It looks like maybe the plug has been loose for a while, go easy on threading / tightening a new plug.

 

This tool kit works very well for removing the broken tips.

Lisle Tools - Plug Removal Kit

Follow up removal with a brass bore brush and penetrating oil to clean the plug bore, then, using an air gun extension to get into the cylinder, compressed air.

Finally, spray each cylinder down with brake clean and jump the starter relay/solenoid to crank the engine with the plugs out and blow the remaining debris out of the cylinders.

Apply a thin layer of copper or nickel base anti-seize to the electrode shell on the new plugs.

 

Thats the blow torch effect I mentioned in your other thread. That missing ground strap is disintegrated.

 

All of those are great thoughts. I tend to concur that its likely disintegrated or blown out somehow. I'm just gonna install new plug and hope for the best. Fukit.

*Update- installed, but I think it sounds off and maybe feels off too, but still has power when I getting some head on men's john... so now I'm wondering if both cylinders are now misfiring since i removed the opposing side coil to compare, bit both doesnt feel as bad as just one- does that make sense any? How bad to drive it? I need to drive to work or dont go on my 2nd day of new job that i really wanted. Dilemmas ...

 

If it’s misfiring, it’s not a good idea to keep driving it until the misfire is resolved. Besides causing the converters to break down, misfires can eventually cause mechanical failure and then the engine will need more than a few spark plugs.

Did you torque the plugs to spec or just snug them down? My experience with these engines is the spark plugs are sensitive enough to proper torque that they either work loose from under-torque or get blown out and strip the threads from over-torque.

The spec is 11 ft-lbs (132 in-lbs). The plug tubes, threads and bore MUST be clean and free of debris to properly tighten and seal the threads.

 

Installed the new plug and coil. It was my brain messing with me. Got some Oreilly guys to check it out and listen, and they said sounds good. So I drove it to work today and it running solid now. Thx fellas.

 

Thanks for sharing.

None of us needed to know that.

 

The newer torque spec is 25 foot pounds as far as I know . Me I still put nickel anti seize on plug shank metal and a very small amount on plug threads. Nickel is good for 2400 deg f ,you can buy it on amazon ,it will last a very long time .
Plugs are only good for 60 k miles , I hope you are replacing boots every 100k . Clean cop contacts as they corrode all the time .

 

Not sure I'd seek ANY information from a clerk at a parts house especially in assessing a vehicle's engine sounds---that's just insane! Hell I even double-check those people when they give me the total cost at the register!

Running ab older 5.4 Modular Motor since 2008 I've always used 26-28 ft/lbs torque on the plugs along with the nickel-based anti-seize---never an issue with plugs backing out, etc. I also never let them go past 60K miles before being changed (Motorcraft brand).

 

Seriously, unnecessary. You're a scumbag