So you did not need to go to the gym is what you are saying
That is the hardest part for me, I get down and have a hell of a time getting back up.

Also in the last few years when I start moving around under the car / truck working I start to feel sick, motion sickness maybe?
Never had that before and it sucks as I got to stop working.

On the lines I have used metal coat hangers and bent them of how I want the lines to run and use as a pattern.
It is easier to work with the hangers than the line.

I would think the same way on the v2 or v4 TB. Unless it is a full on race motor I dont see the need for the v4 carb or TB.

I know with carbs the smaller ones will have better throttle response and I would also think the TB would be the same?
My son keep hinting on getting the v1 Sniper for the truck and I keep asking why if it runs good not and the EFR gauge is reading in a good range I would just end up with lighter pockets.
Dave ----

 

Yesterday I spent a little time in the garage more of cleaning up than working on anything good.
Last week I took 5 gallons of drain oil to the dump and did the rest yesterday along with a bunch of oil filters.

I was then able to get to a table to start cleaning it off. I still have some things from the truck on it so they went into the storage bins so all in 1 place.
That got me to a bunch of hammer heads and new handles I bought think 2 years ago.
I have 2 handles that I dont know why I got them as they dont fit the heads that were on the table, unless I missed place the heads?
I did get 4 hammers and 1 sledge fixed. I still have 4 hammers and 1 hatchet that need handles and plan to try and get them today at Agri Supply.

Did a little sweeping to make it look better but the big thing was the Javelin.
Back a few months ago I went to move the car to do cleaning and the fuel pump started leaking.
I replaced it with a better name brand name pump that made the carb over flow as it was putting out 18 psi before I shut the motor off.

I took the pump back and got a different brand, more money less known name.
When changing it son & I fond rust in the filter and I knew it was not from the tank as it was sent out and lined years ago so it had to be from the steel supply line. So I replace the steel line with Alum and replaced the rubber hoses as they had cracks. They were new when I did the tank and only started to move the car in / out of garage.

The car sat till yesterday when I got it running to see if this 2nd pump also put out too much psi.
I got lucky and no overflow of the carb I did buy a regulator when I got the coil of Alum for the fuel line just in case.
Now that the car runs again I can put the wheel back on that was pulled for the fuel pump and I can get it outside to do more cleaning.
Once I can move around the car I can get on it for the body work.

Oh when doing the work on the fuel pump we pulled the brake booster as it stopped working.
When I find a box I will call a place that rebuilds them and send it out.
From what I seen posted any of the store boosters are the wrong ones. This one is a 3 year only booster.
I was also told a drum / drum booster would work. They were wrong as the master (new) would not bolt up and why mine has to be rebuilt.

Now to grab the hammer heads and find handles that fit
Dave ----

 

This morning I ended up taking my drive shaft to Triangle Driveline in Durham. I called your place in Garner and the guy said he couldn’t do it for me. I asked why and he said that even tho he had all of the proper machinery, he’s currently lacking a guy to run them that knows what the hell he’s doing.
my shaft will be done in a day or two.

 

Well it was good he was up front about it.
When I had mine done I think there was only 1 guy doing all the work?
If so I can see getting burnt out and say F this and walking!

I did not know there was another place close by as Puryear only told me of Stone.

I wonder if Stone was to to talk to Wake Tech to see if they have someone that might work out and could be trained to fill the spot?
Dave ----

 

Picked up my shorter driveshaft today. Got it installed and all seems good. Definitely recommend Russel @Triangle Drive Line in Durham.

 

WOW that was quick.
So what is the ETA it moves under it's own power?
Bet you can hear it running now

Tues I went to Agri Supply and picked up more hammer handles.
Wed after the gym I worked on matting the handles to the hammer heads.
None of the handles, this bunch and the others, would fit with out some work. Made a lot of saw dust in the garage LOL

Gave the floor a quick sweep, wish I could move the car out but the power booster is pulled as it needs to be rebuilt.
Gave a look for a box to ship it in but got nothing here so I will keep look out for one.
Dave ----

 

You’re probably already bored w/ retirement, so you should March into Stone in the morning and announce to the owner that his new driveline specialist has arrived!

 

Then again it most likely would be only 5 days a week and not more like I could of had driving.

It was nice yesterday to get out early to the yard and cut the grass.
Not have to rush because it was going to get dark or work was going to call with loads.
Still took me 3 hours and still did not do the trimming, cant rush it

Maybe later today I will do the trimming and I want to trim back the rear tree line so I dont have to duck under stuff when doing the grass.
Now that I think of it next week I got nothing to do

Kit the gym 5am, made breakfast when I got home, need to do the weekly trash run yet.
Thinking of doing more cleaning in the garage. Still dont have enough room to work around the Javelin with out moving stuff.

Tomorrow the club is going to "Cars on Main" in Kenly got to be at TSC in Selma for 7am
Then Sunday we have a cruse in at Johnson Better Care in Dunn 1pm to 4pm
So the weekend is taken up.

You can see I am keeping busy just not running at 100 MPH like before
Dave ----

 

Hey Kurt, I went to Stone Heavy with my friend Andre MONTHS ago, he had a slight vibration above 55mph in his Mazdaratti pickup and wanted to get a new driveshaft made. We were told at that time that their "driveshaft guy" had left and they didn't have anyone qualified to run the machines. So they have been ignoring that part of the business for a very long time! Although he did tell me that their other location Greensboro can do it. lol. Glad to hear you got it taken care of at Triangle Driveline.

Dave, any time you need to rip those boards on my tablesaw just give me a holler.

What I have been up to this week.

I hadn't touched my car trailer in a couple of months, I had been keeping it at Tom's and you know out-of-sight-out-of-mind. So I went and snagged it on Tuesday, since my wife goes into the office to work I knew I would have the whole carport to myself.

First, I finished removing all the wood decking. At first I tried drilling out the heads of the bolts, but it was a lot of long hard working drilling. I tried my luck on TWO, and after about 15 minutes I had one with the head drilled off and the other still intact. So I changed tactics and just got the crowbar out and went neanderthal on it.


The negative camber from that front tire has always annoyed me. It came from being overloaded, you can see the slight upwards bend in the second pic.



I had my trusty old dial gauge handy, so I put it on the hub face of both wheels to see what I was dealing with.

Front shows 2 degrees negative camber. That is leaned in 5 degrees more than the rear tire.


The rear tire shows 3 degrees positive camber, which is what you would expect from a trailer axle. It should go to 0 when it's loaded.

I read lots of internet suggestions about home DIY fixes and this one seemed like the best option for me. Cut the axle shaft halfway through, use a BFH to pound on it and bend it where it needs to be, then weld up the cut.



One more pass to get any spots I missed and it will be ready to go.

Afterwards, I have 0 degrees. I probably should have gone a little more, but it's better than it was.


I figured this might be a good time to tackle some of the suspension as well. I had previously bought a box of 9/16 grade 8 bolts & lock nuts for this, as well as new shackle brackets, so it was just a matter of spending about 15 minutes per bolt getting them off. Propane torch, WD40, breaker bar, lots of sweating and achy back.

The old stuff was badly worn and damaged.


Looks a lot better and safer. But I only got one side done and needed to clear out the carport so my wife could park inside, due to the storm that was scheduled to come through.

I didn't think about earlier, but I needed new bushing as well. I have ordered a set and when they come in I'll do the suspension on the other side, then I will also redo this side, but I'm sure it will be a lot easier since the bolts are new and not seized.

 

John you were a busy boy. The trailer is coming along nicely
I would have thought you would have bent the axle tube back like you did on the trailer deck, bottle jack & chain.

Besides the camber I wounder what the toe is on the 2 axles?
I have a set of toe plates I bought to check the toe on the pickup but have not used them yet.
They are made so 1 person can check toe with 2 tape measures.
Been so long I would need to check YouTube on how to use them
Dave ----

 

I didn't think of using the bottle jack to bend the axle, in my head I'm trying to think how I would position it and hold it place and I am not sure if it would have worked for this. But since the gears in your head are spinning, do you have any ideas or suggestions for how to raise the frame UP here at this point, it's been bent down around 3/4 of an inch.


I can fit my entire finger underneath.

I did the new bolts, nuts, and shackle brackets on the left side today. Same as the other, badly worn and cracks and in one case, 2 thin axle brackets sandwiched together instead of one good size thick one. But it's all replaced now! And of course has to come apart again when the bushings get here, but I think it will only take 15 minutes per side instead of 15 minutes per bolt.


The only wheel with noticeable toe issues was the left side rear, it has a definite "toe in". It was really obvious when I had the wider tire on it because it would rub the frame in the front but have 1/2 inch of clearance in the back. I made my own high tech toe measuring device. A piece of small angle iron clamped onto the hub surface.


Front measurement 5-1/4

Rear measurement almost 5-1/2

I followed the same process as I had used on the other side. I cut halfway through the axle tube on the back half. This part is a little sketch. I put a come-along from the tongue to the axle and cranked it until I couldn't move it anymore. Then I got my BFH and pounded it until it moved a little. Took a lot of effort!


Afterwards, front measurement is almost 5-3/8

And the rear measurement is between 5-1/4 and 5-3/8

 

On the gap I would like to look at it in person to see just what is going on.
Maybe after the cruse in I will follow you home to look it over?
Then come up with a game plan.

Is that the flat bed deck where the boards bolt down to to the main trailer frame?
Looks like the front A frame just to the left and the board bed side rail that is bent with a bow in it.
The main frame is not bent also is it?
Dave ----

 

Yes, just the upper frame only, it's bent downwards and as you noticed the bulge from where the bend pushed the side outwards. If you don't mind stopping over after the show to check it out that would be great. Maybe we can figure out a way to straighten it some.

 

my “parts that still need to be installed “ table keeps getting lighter!

 

That looks really nice

If we go to shows together you will get "best engine bay in the 80 - 86 Ford trucks"
Not long now before we hear it running.

I thought you were going to do the break in with a carb then switch to the EFI or did you say what the he11 lets just do EFI from the get go?
If the EFI is doing fuel & timing and there is a way to keep the RPM up during the break in I say run the EFI.
Dave ----