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Glow plug relay

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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 11:22 AM
  #1  
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Glow plug relay

Quick question I have a 1997 f350 auto california edition if that makes sense. My glow plugs only work intermediary and as I was researching and diagnosing the problem I came across that am suppose to have a shunt or somthing on my gpr (I dont). Wondering where I could get that part if anyone's knows or a picture of what it looks like so i can fab it or somthing.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 01:06 PM
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Some quick searching shows that there were shunts on the Cali trucks. Like most other Cali specific things, didn't seem to do much. Most recommend just wiring it like the rest of the world's 7.3s were setup.

Here's a thread with info about the shunt. They have a part number too for the shunt if you want to try amd get one.

https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...-shunt.640482/
 
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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Some quick searching shows that there were shunts on the Cali trucks. Like most other Cali specific things, didn't seem to do much. Most recommend just wiring it like the rest of the world's 7.3s were setup.

Here's a thread with info about the shunt. They have a part number too for the shunt if you want to try amd get one.

https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...-shunt.640482/
thank you trying to see if thats my problem before i take the valve covers to check that harness. Getting dtc's p1391 amd p1393(both banks not powering on) I have to cycle my key severel times till i hear the relay click. For my glow plugs to work if that makes sense. Ive tested my relay using a multimeter and it seems fine the prevous owner said he replaced it and it looks new to me. Might just replace the relay just in case.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 02:11 PM
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
You could try to mount your wires for each bank on the central post and see if that ears up the codes/issue.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
You could try to mount your wires for each bank on the central post and see if that ears up the codes/issue.
Sorry wiring comfuses the **** out of me found this image off of google and it looks like what mine is. Can you point out which one is the center post and where i should put the wires or should it be like that for what you're talking about?

 
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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 07:30 PM
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
Originally Posted by Nick05
Sorry wiring comfuses the **** out of me found this image off of google and it looks like what mine is. Can you point out which one is the center post and where i should put the wires or should it be like that for what you're talking about?
Thats the American version, number 4 is the one that should go to the glow plugs. You should be getting darn near battery voltage at that terminal when that relay is activated.

The California version supposedly has something like this (not broken of course)





I read, but forgot that you don't have the shunt. The shunt isn't really necessary as far as I know. Unoess the pcm is somwhow programmed to look for it on Cali models.

You just need to troubleshoot the relay and see if thats good.

So check that when you turn the key on, number 5 gets power. Number 3 is a ground sent from pcm. So you'd use a multimeter to check for continuity to ground when the keys first turned on.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2024 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
So check that when you turn the key on, number 5 gets power. Number 3 is a ground sent from pcm. So you'd use a multimeter to check for continuity to ground when the keys first turned on.
Ok so it seem everything is working correctly might check in the morning again as the truck was warm. Just to make sure. But while trying to test the relay it started to make a buzzing noise then it clicked several times in quickly and turned off. Think I should just throw a new one in to see if it solves the problem?
#2 and 4 had around 12v
#5 had power
3 seems to be grounded properly
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 07:19 AM
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Just make sure the voltage doesn't drop too much between the big posts. I think if it drops more then .3 volts it's considered bad and should be replaced.

They're pretty easy to replace, just be mindful of the wire cimibg from the battery, dont let it touch anything. I usually wrap a piece of electrical or duct tape around the end until I'm ready to wire it onto the new relay.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Edgethis
Just make sure the voltage doesn't drop too much between the big posts. I think if it drops more then .3 volts it's considered bad and should be replaced.

They're pretty easy to replace, just be mindful of the wire cimibg from the battery, dont let it touch anything. I usually wrap a piece of electrical or duct tape around the end until I'm ready to wire it onto the new relay.
I was poking around and realized that the ground from the pcm was hand lose tightened it went to clear the codes but of course now the truck has to "relearn how I drive" if that makes sense (test readiness I think it's called) gonna drive it a little then check again. If I do replace it should I do the white Roger or stancor I think their called or is the oem fine?
 
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Old Apr 8, 2024 | 04:36 PM
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Pretty sure there is no P1000 code available for these as a 'relearn'
 
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 02:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Pretty sure there is no P1000 code available for these as a 'relearn'
was just using as a simple way to say it. "readiness monitors have not yet been set" is what I get when I look it up and the way to get ride of it was to just drive around i belive. I've had it before from accidently clearing the codes to often. If its still there I'll post exactly what it says at work atm.
 
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Old Apr 9, 2024 | 09:21 AM
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I Have had a white Roger or stancor for over 10 yr. with O problems. It works when others stop. Just my opinion.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2024 | 01:29 PM
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Problem solve(just wanted to update how it was solved)
the nuts holding the cable to the relay was just tight enough so where I couldn't turn them with my hand but took a rachet to it it and got like 4 more turns till it tighten all the way
codes went away
 
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