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If there is diesel leaking from the exhaust manifold flange on cylinder #2, then you have an injector problem w/ #2 cylinder, regardless of new or not. Might not have been installed correctly. Time to remove that injector, and inspect things.
Trying to drive with a cylinder that is full of diesel is good a way to damage your engine. You can EASILY blow head gaskets this way (liquids do not compress). Trying to compress liquid can "bend things" also.
If there is diesel leaking from the exhaust manifold flange on cylinder #2, then you have an injector problem w/ #2 cylinder, regardless of new or not. Might not have been installed correctly. Time to remove that injector, and inspect things.
Trying to drive with a cylinder that is full of diesel is good a way to damage your engine. You can EASILY blow head gaskets this way (liquids do not compress). Trying to compress liquid can "bend things" also.
Thanks Bismic!
I just cleaned the block, and exhaust manifold around cylinder 2 to confirm if this is still happening after I installed the new injector. I did notice it’s almost not smoking at all any more after I fixed the icp sensor issue. If there is no more diesel leaking from cylinder 2 I will let it idle to ensure I get all the air out of the high pressure side and then go from there. If there is still a leak, time to open it back up as you said. Thanks
I had a friend come by with a bosch scan tool and I was able to do a power balance test that showed 2, and 4 low around 38( new injectors from ford), the rest above 0 as I assume it was trying to compensate. I was also able to do a relative compression test and all 8 were even at 0.
Pulled injector 2, 4 and o rings looked fine. No obvious signs of exhaust gas leaking thru copper washer. I swapped the injectors around incase maybe one was bad leaking fuel thru, but once I started it up no change in the way it ran and I was able to see a drip again under the exhaust of cylinder 2. Is it possible this is condensation, It is 100%clear?
I hooked scanner up and again it showed cylinders 2, and 4 low, if I disabled 2 no change to the way engine idled and same for 4 so appear to not be firing although they pass and I can hear them during a koeo buzz test. i wiggled the injector plugs at 2 and 4 no change, i moved the main harness by the plug to the ficm and the car died so will no look into this. the injector harness is new, not sure from where but came with the car when i bought it.
Thanks Blades. Along with changing the injectors from 2-4 in case I also changed the hold downs. I also made sure the holes for the hold down bolts were cleaned, I also used a brass wire brush(gun cleaning kit) to clean the cup without scratching them up
Thanks Blades. Along with changing the injectors from 2-4 in case I also changed the hold downs. I also made sure the holes for the hold down bolts were cleaned, I also used a brass wire brush(gun cleaning kit) to clean the cup without scratching them up
Then I guess you could focus on the injectors wire harness. I’m not sure on this but if the coil does not shut off could possibly leak
Then I guess you could focus on the injectors wire harness. I’m not sure on this but if the coil does not shut off could possibly leak
I was thinking the same, I might pull the exhaust header off since its on the driver side and not super difficult and see what comes out of these 4 cylinders while running. I did find some old post about others having this issue and it being condensation, I haven't ran it more than 40 minutes total since i put it back together with a new hpop and injectors so wondering if its not diesel.
I am going to start looking into the harness, I still have the oem harness also so might swap it back in and see if that changes anything from this new non oem. Then I need to figure out why the engine dies when I move the main harness near the ficm plug.
thanks, going to double check them. I do know the main ficm plugs coming in does have 1 of the clips broken, and the injector harness is new non oem. during the power balance test it shows cylinders 2, 4 down and no change when I disable them BUT they pass the buzz test ( i hear 2,4 click) sign of a possible bad ficm on tp of a wiring issue? the ficm voltages look code from what I've read online.
going to do the mist test thru glow plug as you shared, and the noid test too on 2, 4.