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Early 04 Starts and Dies

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Old 07-01-2015, 09:01 PM
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Early 04 Starts and Dies

I have an issue with my early 2004 6.0. Motor reads 07/03 for date. My problem is, the first time I start my truck after it has completely cooled down(8hours or more), it takes 4 starts on the dot every time. Every start it turns and fires up very quickly, when it fires up it poofs black smoke, and then dies. The fourth time I start it, fires up quickly and it idles just fine.

Recently replaced parts include:
all 8 injectors 155/30 with spool valves from warren diesel
both fuel filters
rotella t6 5w40 and motorcraft filter
ICP sensor
EGR Delete
BPD 48v FICM

At idle I have 600PSI oil and under load it reaches 3500PSI so I have pretty much ruled out HPOP issues. Truck doesn't leak fluids and after its running it runs good. Its a little choppy since the injector install (3days ago), but warren diesel told me it would be with the spool valves until it is tuned. I have a new AirRaid filter and SCT Tuner in the mail, as soon as I have the S/N off the tuner it will be custom tuned.

So here are my suspicions, I sometimes get ICP sensor voltage too high codes. I don't know if this is possible, but could my truck have too much oil pressure to start easy? Like I said before, it always starts very fast, matybe 2 seconds or less of cranking, then almost immediately dies with a poof of black smoke. Happened with both stock and new injectors. So here's my second idea, IPR might be stuck or being tricked by the ICP? I had a bad ICP and replaced it, and that is about the time it started taking more tries to start. I have the early 6.0 so "just unplug the ICP" isnt an easy task, though it is the next thing I'm trying.

Just as some added info, and sorry for the long post to begin with, is that Ford Dealership told me I had 3 bad injectors, one of which actually would drop and come back while driving. the other 2 were just "weak".And before the injector replacement I would have some surging or bucking at 3k RPM range, I was told the injectors were causing this and probably the starting issue. I think this is gone now but it is hard to tell with the choppiness caused by the spool valves.

I really need some help with this, I love the truck and have had very good luck with it other than these two issues. I plan to keep this truck at least another 200k miles if it keeps going.
 
  #2  
Old 07-02-2015, 01:03 AM
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May need to get a Contribution test done to see what Injector is giving you grief, could be the copper washer, not torxed down to spec, many things, what does the ICPV say ? the volts will bounce around when the truck starts to act up, could very well be the Connection , any oil on the connection or out the back side of the ICP? and have you Inspected the Harness for Chaffing ?
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:47 AM
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Early 04 Starts and Dies

Y3p would go with a contribution test.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:11 AM
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Thanks for replying so fast, I have a contribution test from Ford with my stock injectors. There were 3 that were not performing "up to speck" which is why I replaced all injectors with new ones. They were tested before shipping so all should be good now. As for ICPV, I had a bullydog that read KSI to me, I sold it right after getting the injectors since I have an SCT on the way. It was only used for gauges though. When cranking I would almost immediately make a little over 600PSI or .6KSI as it read. I think the*Diablo Sport I still have will read voltage. I'll run it today and see.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:12 AM
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Sorry also forgot but when I replaced the ICP I did the harness also.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:24 AM
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Originally Posted by trent1234108
Sorry also forgot but when I replaced the ICP I did the harness also.
Have you tried waiting 15 seconds or so after key on before attempting to start it? And you should check your fuel pressure so you don't kill your new injectors with low fuel pressure, it needs to be greater than 45 PSI at wide open throttle.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:29 AM
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I always let the wait to start light go off, which is about 6 seconds when really cold during winter. Ambient temp doesn't seem to affect at all. I have tried doing a full glow plug cycle before start though, same results. I forgot to mention in my OP that I did the blue spring and banjo bolts. I don't have any way to check pressure right now. All upgrades/ repairs were done at different times, each had little to no affect of the starting issue. But I believe injectors fixed the surge/bucking problem.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by trent1234108
I always let the wait to start light go off, which is about 6 seconds when really cold during winter. Ambient temp doesn't seem to affect at all. I have tried doing a full glow plug cycle before start though, same results. I forgot to mention in my OP that I did the blue spring and banjo bolts. I don't have any way to check pressure right now. All upgrades/ repairs were done at different times, each had little to no affect of the starting issue. But I believe injectors fixed the surge/bucking problem.
The reason I was curious about waiting a bit longer after turning the key to run is the fuel pump runs for approximately 20 seconds after turning the key to run and by waiting the extra time you would make sure the fuel system was up to pressure.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:56 AM
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I will try that when I get home from work today. I have noticed these injectors with upgraded spool valves clatter a shorter period of time then my stock ones.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by trent1234108
I will try that when I get home from work today. I have noticed these injectors with upgraded spool valves clatter a shorter period of time then my stock ones.
One other thing to try is to park the truck nose down to see if the first start of the day improves, if you don't have a hill you can park it on jack up the rear end and put some jack stands under it. If parking nose down improves it then the shaft seal in the HPOP is bad ( credit for that trick goes to cheezit if im not mistaken )
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:19 PM
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Okay I haven't heard of that yet, I'm to the point that I don't care what the problem is and what I have to replace, I just want to know what to do.
 
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:22 PM
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Good Call Bret, one thing to double check is the ICPV , you said pig tail was replaced ( maybe by chance ) one crimp didn't get all the way, I'd pinch around the area of splice . and I think your on to something pull the IPR and check the screen.
 
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Old 07-03-2015, 06:57 AM
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Okay yesterday when I got home from work I tried turning key and counted to 20. Same thing. Fired right up big poof of smoke and dies. Couple more tries and it ran just like always. I'm getting my Jack stands back from one of my friends today and I'll lift the back in tonight to see if that helps. If it does, is the shaft seal serviceable without a new HPOP? If not would you recommend a higher flow pump for my injectors?
 
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Old 07-03-2015, 10:14 PM
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Parked the truck on as much slope as I could get it tonight. Hopefully that fixes it and I'll have a lead towards the problem. While watching fireworks tonight I scanned the truck even though there wasn't a CEL. Showed contribution and balance on 5,6, and 7... On my brand new injectors!! I'm hoping this has to do with needing tuned. I've read that the upgraded spool valves could make it seem rough running. Also possibly that I don't have enough pressure for bigger injectors? I'll let you know what happens in the morning.

I'd like to add, this morning that it started the first try but I held the gas down half way when cranking. It sounded unhappy for a few seconds then evened out.
 
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Old 07-09-2015, 07:47 AM
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Okay so twice, on separate nights I parked nose down and in the morning fired right up. So that means the shaft seal in HPOP is bad. Can I pull the pump and replace all the orings and be good or do I have to get a new pump for this? Any suggestions for pump manufacturers for bigger injectors?
 


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