first start question
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
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first start question
I'm getting ready for the first start of a freshly rebuilt 400. I have break in oil w/ high zinc in the block and understand the break in process for flat tappets.
Planning on having some fuel in the carb bowl, priming the oil system w/ a drill, and setting the timing to fire off around 10*BTDC.
Could I also just crank it a bit w/ the HEI distributor unplugged from the 12v source?
I figure this would prime the oil and fuel at the same time, but also didn't know if this would possibly damage the lifters/cam.
thoughts?
Planning on having some fuel in the carb bowl, priming the oil system w/ a drill, and setting the timing to fire off around 10*BTDC.
Could I also just crank it a bit w/ the HEI distributor unplugged from the 12v source?
I figure this would prime the oil and fuel at the same time, but also didn't know if this would possibly damage the lifters/cam.
thoughts?
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 67
Likes: 38
The oil that lubricates the tappets comes from the rods. As the crank spins, excess oil from the rod bearings is thrown out onto the cam. If the engine is rotating slowly via the starter, or idling, oil may not be dispersed as well to the camshaft. Common practice is to prime the engine oil and fuel, ensure it will start immediately and dont let it idle for at least 20 minutes.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,135
Likes: 4,735
From: Burbank, WA
The whole point of pre-oiling or priming the system is to fill all the oil galleys and passages and build pressure prior to having any moving parts potentially move dry. It's not just the cam and lifters but the oil pump, all the bearings, valve train, etc. All of these things will be rubbing on themselves dry for quite a while as it will take a lot of cranking to get oil to fill the pump, filter, all the oil passages which are clean and dry throughout the entire engine, all the way to the rockers. Engines are expensive to build and oil and oil pressure is not a good place to skimp on a new build. You want to see full pressure on the gauge and oil coming out of the pushrods to lube the rockers before hitting the starter.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
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thanks guys
I've already spun the oil pump w/ a drill a few weeks ago to ensure that oil was coming out of every pushrod before putting on the valve covers. I'll prime it and keep an eye on the oil pressure sender/gauge, throw some gas in the carb bowl, and fire her up.
I've already spun the oil pump w/ a drill a few weeks ago to ensure that oil was coming out of every pushrod before putting on the valve covers. I'll prime it and keep an eye on the oil pressure sender/gauge, throw some gas in the carb bowl, and fire her up.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 364
Likes: 91
Like said before,after priming oil pump,the main key to success is that it starts and runs immediately. Eyeballing the rotor to number 1 with the balancer at TDC will almost always have the timing too retarded and you end up messing with the distributor to keep it running. Set your balancer at 18 degrees advance,then eyeball the rotor to 1 and it will run fine till break in is done,then you can fine tune your timing. I use a marine sqeeze bulb between the fuel line and pump on the tank side to fill the carb completely. You can leave it in place till you're done. Mufflers installed...Guys get in a hurry and fire them up with open headers,etc. That's bad,can't hear things coming unglued till it's too late.
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 688
Likes: 210
Like said before,after priming oil pump,the main key to success is that it starts and runs immediately. Eyeballing the rotor to number 1 with the balancer at TDC will almost always have the timing too retarded and you end up messing with the distributor to keep it running. Set your balancer at 18 degrees advance,then eyeball the rotor to 1 and it will run fine till break in is done,then you can fine tune your timing. I use a marine sqeeze bulb between the fuel line and pump on the tank side to fill the carb completely. You can leave it in place till you're done. Mufflers installed...Guys get in a hurry and fire them up with open headers,etc. That's bad,can't hear things coming unglued till it's too late.
I was going to just fill the carb bowls w/ around 1/2C of gas. Will this give me enough time for the fuel pump to draw fuel into the carb?
I currently have long tube headers on. No mufflers yet. I was planning on driving it to a muffler shop once ready for that. What should I be listening for should things go bad? Knocking, ticking?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 7,826
Likes: 2,339
Run straight water in it, no antifreeze.
have your timing light hooked up and ready to go. have your distributor hold down snuck but loose enough you can move it. disconnect and plug your vacuum advance. while it's running 2000-2500 set it to 30-35 BTC
have a heat gun so you can monitor the temperatures of not only the water but the EGT's on each cylinder.
check the oil for water a few times while it's running.
I just pour a little gas in the carb to get it running. it might die a time or two but it doesn't matter.
Avoid extended idling for a few thousand miles.
have your timing light hooked up and ready to go. have your distributor hold down snuck but loose enough you can move it. disconnect and plug your vacuum advance. while it's running 2000-2500 set it to 30-35 BTC
have a heat gun so you can monitor the temperatures of not only the water but the EGT's on each cylinder.
check the oil for water a few times while it's running.
I just pour a little gas in the carb to get it running. it might die a time or two but it doesn't matter.
Avoid extended idling for a few thousand miles.
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