When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
And the door itself. Never noticed it before until I got my new door put back on the truck. Is this normal or am I missing something? My concern is excessive water going in there. Gap Between Vent post and door. The outer anti rattle strip is missing, I know and I have a new one on the way.
I have a similar gap on mine. I think the mirror (from wind resistance??) pulls the outer door skin outward over time. It looks like there is a small crease between the mounting holes that indicates, to me anyway, that the door skin has been pulled outward.
You have water get in there any way, that is why the door have drail slits on the bottom. X2 the anti rattle strip will help with the gap, but yes that outer door skin looks a little pulled. To make youself feel better about it..... here is an example of really pulled door skin.
The car port lower frame hit (landed on) the mirror backet on its way down during the storm. I think it came up and down a few times. You would of thought that the mirror hdwr nut-serts would of just pulled out the door skin. But NO it had to bent the door skin and the mirror bracket.
Yes the carport is setting on the top of the cab. But no hood or cowl damage.
And on one of it trips up and down it took out the drip rail.
Here is what I can back from over seas to...ol Blue did not have a scratch.
I have a similar gap on mine. I think the mirror (from wind resistance??) pulls the outer door skin outward over time. It looks like there is a small crease between the mounting holes that indicates, to me anyway, that the door skin has been pulled outward.
I see what you mean...yes it does seem to be pulled out a bit. If I apply a bit of pressure with my hand it gets better. Can't keep it in place so I guess it is what it is.
You have water get in there any way, that is why the door have drail slits on the bottom. X2 the anti rattle strip will help with the gap, but yes that outer door skin looks a little pulled. To make youself feel better about it..... here is an example of really pulled door skin.
The car port lower frame hit (landed on) the mirror backet on its way down during the storm. I think it came up and down a few times. You would of thought that the mirror hdwr nut-serts would of just pulled out the door skin. But NO it had to bent the door skin and the mirror bracket.
Yes the carport is setting on the top of the cab. But no hood or cowl damage.
And on one of it trips up and down it took out the drip rail.
Here is what I can back from over seas to...ol Blue did not have a scratch.
Thanks, yes... the drain slits and are clear. I learned about those back when I had my 79 and I heard a sloshing water noise every time I closed the door. The drains were plugged with dirt and pine needles.
And the door itself. Never noticed it before until I got my new door put back on the truck. Is this normal or am I missing something? My concern is excessive water going in there. Gap Between Vent post and door. The outer anti rattle strip is missing, I know and I have a new one on the way.
You say "new door"? Is that a brand new aftermarket door. I installed two aftermarket doors on mine, they were bought in the mid 1990s though, just got around to using them last year. I also put new vent rubber in. I noticed that the aftermarket doors ere themselves a little wider there, and there's a metal piece made in them to set them apart. Yours does look bent, mine were straight, but what drew my attention was the rubber was a looser fit than the old rubber was in the OEM doors, but the rubber does reach the metal (just barely). Measured the aftermarket doors, they were a little further apart than those old doors.
You'll never keep water out of those doors. Best you can do is seal the lower seams with seam sealer, keeping the several drain holes open. I sealed mine in the '90s, then last year we primed, painted in the door, and I added a good brushed in coat of Iron Armor bed liner, keeping the drains open. I have shields over my speakers, and my door panels are well waterproofed on the wet side too.
You say "new door"? Is that a brand new aftermarket door. I installed two aftermarket doors on mine, they were bought in the mid 1990s though, just got around to using them last year. I also put new vent rubber in. I noticed that the aftermarket doors ere themselves a little wider there, and there's a metal piece made in them to set them apart. Yours does look bent, mine were straight, but what drew my attention was the rubber was a looser fit than the old rubber was in the OEM doors, but the rubber does reach the metal. Measured the aftermarket doors, they were a little further apart than those old doors.
You'll never keep water out of those doors. Best you can do is seal the lower seams with seam sealer, keeping the several drain holes open. I sealed mine in the '90s, then last year we primed, painted in the door, and I added a good brushed in coat of Iron Armor bed liner, keeping the drains open. I have shields over my speakers, and my door panels are well waterproofed on the wet side too.
Sorry...new to me and my truck. It's a door I bought out of a J/Y and painted to match.
It looks fairly typical, to me. If your vent glass seals good with the rubber you have and the rubber is still supple, that would be more important, to me, than the gap at the division bar. Aftermarket rubbers have never been known for their high quality. I'd hate to change the rubber only to find the glass doesn't seal, you now have a wind whistle and interior water leak, but that 1/4" gap is covered. As noted by the others, keep your drains clear and you'll never have an issue.
It looks fairly typical, to me. If your vent glass seals good with the rubber you have and the rubber is still supple, that would be more important, to me, than the gap at the division bar. Aftermarket rubbers have never been known for their high quality. I'd hate to change the rubber only to find the glass doesn't seal, you now have a wind whistle and interior water leak, but that 1/4" gap is covered. As noted by the others, keep your drains clear and you'll never have an issue.
Thank you for that. X1000 on keeping those drains clear. It's something I check whenever I give it the annual bath. Plugged drains weren't an issue when I lived in Pasco.
Thank you for that. X1000 on keeping those drains clear. It's something I check whenever I give it the annual bath. Plugged drains weren't an issue when I lived in Pasco.