Forgot to add these photos.
IMG_9607.pdf

 

Having to add photos one at a time due to size. Technology

 

One last photo

 

Well that was close, but not quite what we are looking for. Imagine the valve opening and closing. Where the valve tip stops at it's highest point, or when the valve is closed, is what we're after. Are all the valve tips at the same height. (distance from the head if you will) Someone help me here lol. I think if you simply roll that straightedge on edge, instead of flat as shown, that will get you there. That make sense? This is really easy to show, than explain, of course.

Wait a minute, I have the rocker box off an old Tecumseh. Lemme see what I can do.....standby.

 

That was a bust, I had it all together so no pic. But I did one better, I sketched it! See how those valve tip are not all the same height? That's what we need to investigate. They should all be pretty close, I suspect yours is not.

"Pardon the crudity of my drawing..."

 

Thank you so much for the example. That’s what I did with the ruler but couldn’t capture it in a photo so I turned it on it’s side. I think you can still see if you zoom in but yeah, there are multiple different valve stem heights.

 

Took me a minute to pick up what you put down there, but we're on the same page now, my bad. Good to see it sorted out, it shouldn't normally be that hard.
That valve will be fine, looks like it got nicked by grinding wheel.
While you probably cannot buy more expensive motor oil, it will be perfectly fine. Just keep it serviced. I use Rotella T6 in mine.

Before you think about roller rockers or end stands, which I think is fine if you want that, you should research "rocker arm to valve geometry" or something of the sort. There's a whole other world on the subject you should understand. The angle the rocker makes with the valve stem; where the rocker tip rides on the valve tip through the range of travel; etc.. All this could translate into shimming up, or lowering of the entire rocker assy. and other mind warping and wallet draining situations. Once studied, if you truly get it, you will understand why various valve tip heights is gonna suck.

Why does all that stuff matter then and not now? It won't. BUT, if you're going that far then you probably want the maximum lift/duration/timing out of your cam you can get, with perfect alignment of the rocker arm to valve tip, though roller tips are more forgiving. This achieves minimal valve guide wear and maximum cam performance. You do not have that now and it "hauls ***." Correcting this will require the heads go to a competent rebuilder, tell them what you are doing, they should be able to fix you up.

Advice on roller rocker setup. Do not buy cheap Chinese knockoffs. One popular brand is Harland Sharp which is well made and not cheap. There are others just as good you will no doubt discover in your "studies". These new assys. will require another set of odd length custom pushrods as you have now. And these pushrods may require a ball - cup end vs. the ball - ball end pushrods you have now. You can also look forward to your existing valve covers not clearing the new rocker arms, so you need those. But not just any VC's because these bigger VC"s have to clear things like power brake boosters primarily.
At this point your in about $1k or more and it will still "haul ***.", just slightly better.

If it were me, I'd save the money for gas and drive it like I stole it.
Good luck my friend.

 

Here's a good starting point. There's a couple of sharp folks commenting here.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...p-rockers.html

 

Man, I really appreciate the information and time spent replying. Obviously I'm bummed many of my stem heights are different as I can see that makes the job way more difficult. I'm digging into valve geometry. Trying to wrap my head around how shimming works with a fixed rocker shaft but I'll get there. I really enjoy learning the concepts so I'm prepared when I actually feel like spending more money on upgrades. For now I did get end stands and spacers I put on the "second" rocker shaft assemblies I have that I'm going to swap out. Probably going to check for correct push rod lengths again when I do. Might try the adjustable push rod method as well at base circle then add .040 just for comparison with previous measurements. Eventually I'll get to geometry. I may need to trim oil drainback tin for end stands. Not sure on that but I'll figure it out. Probably just mark then cut the tin. Thanks again for the help.

 

Welp, after putting end stands and spacers on, I realized the factory pedestals in the middle are shorter so I either shim them up or replace them with pedestals that match the end stand heights. Either way the shaft is raised and I'm assuming my geometry changes and I'll need different push rods. Also, looks like trimming my oil shields will reduce their function and I still don't even know how my valve covers will fit. This is frustrating.

 

Disregard. Re measured and I'm good with the heights. Just need to trim the oil shield and re measure.