Ford 300- knocking?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
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From: Burbank, WA
I had a 460 that when cold at fire up had a faint chig-chig-chig exhaust leak for awhile that would just go away as it warmed up. After you started driving a ways you didn't hear it any more and forgot about it. It always drove me nuts at startup as you always think the worst whenever you hear a noise, but because it went away and you forgot about it until the next time you fired it up cold, it never got fixed. It never got worse, either. I also was afraid the fix would turn into a bigger mess than leaving it alone, 'cause you know how that is.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
Rosella has an approximate zinc content of around 1200ppm, as compared to regular conventional with around 700 ppm. Break in oil averages around 3000ppm. im thinking I should be fine with 5 quarts and sub 1 quart with 2 bottles of lucas break in additive. according to Lucas, 1 bottle will treat up to 4.5 quarts with a level of 5000ppm. ill use 2 and start the break in procedure. how can I find RPM without a tach? or do I just listen by ear and hope its correct?
It looks like your plan will be good for the break in.
As for the tach see my answer below.
You can pick up a tach dwell meter to monitor rpm. Probably pretty cheap.
edit: these are no longer available for the most part. There are other remote tach meter tools available. If you have any old guys in your neighborhood see if you can borrow one. Check ebay for a cheap old one?
edit: these are no longer available for the most part. There are other remote tach meter tools available. If you have any old guys in your neighborhood see if you can borrow one. Check ebay for a cheap old one?
I would hit the local parts store to pick up a cheap tach meter.
My local O'Reilly's has 2 a 2-1/2" and a 3-3/8" in stock for $55
They have a 2 1/2" for $50 they can order
https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/a...+-+tachometers
Auto Zone may have some also?
When done with the cam break in you can just remove it, I would have it in the engine bay to keep an eye on it, and store it for next time or mount it in the cab.
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
This way you know the cam & lifters have protection and a good break in.
Wonder what others think.
Dave ----
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
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update: new lifter was put in, engine was held at 2k-2.5k for around 15 minutes. it cleared up, sorta. went to start it again and it’s still ticking. i tracked down the noise to a rocker that was in sync with it. could i have done something wrong? or do i need to give a couple miles for the lifters to settle in.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,188
Likes: 4,792
From: Burbank, WA
Is the rocker on the valve with the new lifter? Did you look at the rocker and the pushrod for wear? Is the oil passage in the pushrod clear and oil is flowing through it? Is the lash set correctly?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 1,248
I think you can leave the heavy duty diesel with the zinc additive in the engine for an oil change. It's not really break in oil which is used in new engines to set the rings and must be changed at 500 miles.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
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From: Angier, NC
Also the assy. lube can clog the filter along with the metal in no time where the filter bypass opens and then lets all that metal back thru the motor.
With just 1 lifter being replaced you dont have all that assy. lube or metal to plug the filter so I guess you could leave it in longer than 500 miles?
Dave ----
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Lead Driver
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That's what I was thinking, just one lifter and he has the zinc additive in very robust oil. I didn't look up the zinc additive to see what else it has in it. So long as it doesn't have friction modifiers in it making the oil more like break in oil should be good for the regular interval. How much assembly lube do you need for one lifter? A teaspoon full?
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
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Hey Y'all,
I have an 86 F150 with the 300. odo reads 97k, but it's more likely 197k. and If any of you are familiar with my latest post, I recently swapped it over from feedback to the HEI ignition system. All has been working well, up until a week ago.
The engine has developed a knock/tick, which I doubt is due to the HEI system (unless my timing is too advanced causing pinging) prior to this, the engine had never made a noise of this severity. The noise is intermittent, (bear with me) it'll go "tick tick tick tick tick pause pause tick tic tick tick pause pause pause tick tick" and so forth. almost as its relying on oil pressure to lubricate itself. If I hold the rpm at like around 1k, sometimes it'll hold the tick, or it'll go away suddently. Ive been scouting forums and groups and all points towards bad lifters which are not being lubricated properly. Any insight? How hard is it to replace the lifters on these engines? What the procedure?
I have an 86 F150 with the 300. odo reads 97k, but it's more likely 197k. and If any of you are familiar with my latest post, I recently swapped it over from feedback to the HEI ignition system. All has been working well, up until a week ago.
The engine has developed a knock/tick, which I doubt is due to the HEI system (unless my timing is too advanced causing pinging) prior to this, the engine had never made a noise of this severity. The noise is intermittent, (bear with me) it'll go "tick tick tick tick tick pause pause tick tic tick tick pause pause pause tick tick" and so forth. almost as its relying on oil pressure to lubricate itself. If I hold the rpm at like around 1k, sometimes it'll hold the tick, or it'll go away suddently. Ive been scouting forums and groups and all points towards bad lifters which are not being lubricated properly. Any insight? How hard is it to replace the lifters on these engines? What the procedure?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Sep 2023
Posts: 94
Likes: 2
Looks like i’ve fixed nothing. She’s still knocking.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 5,221
Likes: 805
Hey Y'all,
I have an 86 F150 with the 300. odo reads 97k, but it's more likely 197k. and If any of you are familiar with my latest post, I recently swapped it over from feedback to the HEI ignition system. All has been working well, up until a week ago.
The engine has developed a knock/tick, which I doubt is due to the HEI system (unless my timing is too advanced causing pinging) prior to this, the engine had never made a noise of this severity. The noise is intermittent, (bear with me) it'll go "tick tick tick tick tick pause pause tick tic tick tick pause pause pause tick tick" and so forth. almost as its relying on oil pressure to lubricate itself. If I hold the rpm at like around 1k, sometimes it'll hold the tick, or it'll go away suddently. Ive been scouting forums and groups and all points towards bad lifters which are not being lubricated properly. Any insight? How hard is it to replace the lifters on these engines? What the procedure?
I have an 86 F150 with the 300. odo reads 97k, but it's more likely 197k. and If any of you are familiar with my latest post, I recently swapped it over from feedback to the HEI ignition system. All has been working well, up until a week ago.
The engine has developed a knock/tick, which I doubt is due to the HEI system (unless my timing is too advanced causing pinging) prior to this, the engine had never made a noise of this severity. The noise is intermittent, (bear with me) it'll go "tick tick tick tick tick pause pause tick tic tick tick pause pause pause tick tick" and so forth. almost as its relying on oil pressure to lubricate itself. If I hold the rpm at like around 1k, sometimes it'll hold the tick, or it'll go away suddently. Ive been scouting forums and groups and all points towards bad lifters which are not being lubricated properly. Any insight? How hard is it to replace the lifters on these engines? What the procedure?
LEAKS
NOISE - 4.9L - EXHAUST MANIFOLD WARPS AND LEAKS
Article No.
88-7-16
LIGHT TRUCK:1984-86 E SERIES, F SERIES, BRONCO
WARNING:This modification is authorized only for the listed engines. Performing this modification on other engine calibrations is unauthorized and could create liability under applicable federal or local laws.
ISSUE:A leak at the exhaust manifold may be caused by the exhaust manifold expanding more than normal and warping under certain operating conditions. The expanding and warping exhaust manifold causes the manifold retaining bolts to lose their torque which results in the leaking condition.
ACTION:To correct this, install a new design exhaust manifold kit that contains a warp resistent exhaust manifold made out of a high silicon cast iron and new steel hot box studs. On selected calibrations it will be necessary to install a new level EEC IV processor. Refer to the following service procedure.
1.Remove the air cleaner.
2.Disconnect the accelerator cable or accelerator rod at the carburetor and remove the accelerator return spring, if equipped.
3.Remove the kickdown rod return spring and kickdown rod bellcrank from vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions.
4.Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor.
5.Label and then disconnect the vacuum lines from the carburetor and intake manifold.
6.Disconnect the carburetor feedback solenoid wiring at the carburetor.
7.Disconnect the electrical connector from the choke cap.
8.Remove the carburetor.
9.Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
10.Disconnect the vacuum line for the brake booster, if equipped.
11.Remove the retaining bolts and nuts holding the intake and exhaust manifolds to the cylinder head.
12.Lift the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds as an assembly from the vehicle.
13.Remove the gasket from the cylinder head.
14.Remove the nuts holding the intake manifold and exhaust manifold together.
15.Obtain Exhaust Manifold Service Kit, E4TZ-9426-D.
16.Clean the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and cylinder head mating surfaces.
17.Check the manifold hot box mating surface for warping. If warped, the intake manifold must be replaced.
8. Replace the choke tubes and choke control insert in the exhaust manifold, Figure 15. 19. Apply graphite grease, (C3AZ-19578-A) on the mating surfaces of the intake manifold and exhaust manifold. FIGURE 16:
20. Assemble the intake manifold to the exhaust manifold. Use the new nuts, bolts and washers supplied in the kit. Do not torque the bolts at this time, Figure 16. FIGURE 17:
21. Install the new intake manifold gasket supplied in the kit, Figure 17. 22. Apply graphite grease, (C3AZ-19578-A) on the mating surfaces of the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. 23. Carefully position the intake manifold to the cylinder head making sure not to move the intake manifold gasket out of place. 24. Install the new intake manifold washer clamps, bolts, nuts and studs supplied in the kit, Figure 17. FIGURE 18:
NOTE:To check the manifold hot box mating surface use an intake manifold that you are sure is not warped.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,935
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
So manifolds to head first then each manifold to each other.
Now will I remember for the next time this comes up
Also dont know if I have seen how the bolts get tighten to the head?
Think I have always started in the center and did a circle going out from there?
Never used any grease
Dave ----
Now will I remember for the next time this comes up
Also dont know if I have seen how the bolts get tighten to the head?
Think I have always started in the center and did a circle going out from there?
Never used any grease
Dave ----
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