F150 lightning swap
Hi Parker! Welcome to the forum. We hope you find some useful information regarding your SVT lighting.
Drop it right in if your truck is 4x4 and you want to keep that I'd find a 7700 series and pull the 4r100 and the tcase from that and just bolt it up to the Lighting power I would keep your stock computer and have it tuned too the mother maybe change your shift points until you like it
I’m putting the power train setup in a offroad truck I’m building. I was looking at putting the ZF6 manual transmission in with the lightning engine. As for the engine, it’s been sitting a while and is somewhat rusty, the plan is to have it bored out and then build it up to get more power as well as handle more boost.
Are you looking to make a truck that pulls tree stumps out of the yard easily or to go fast?
A ZF6 is much better at one of those ideas…and going fast isn’t that.
You’ll need to budget in a lot of radiator, a rear axle that can handle that power, fuel system (a factory Lightning chassis harness has two fuel pumps tied to it) and tuning.
A ZF6 is much better at one of those ideas…and going fast isn’t that.
You’ll need to budget in a lot of radiator, a rear axle that can handle that power, fuel system (a factory Lightning chassis harness has two fuel pumps tied to it) and tuning.
follow the list, ask away if you get into a jam
- supercharger
- throttle body
- lower intake (commonly called a turkey pan)
- midplate
- intercooler core
- supercharger belt tensioner Pulley Bridge with belt Tensioner Assembly (Bracket with idlers and special bolt spacer) (spacer specs to be posted later) -
- Lightning Alternator (Lightning / Harley truck specific to clear the turkey pan)
- Alternator Stabilizer Bracket
- Intercooler Pump and Pigtail (Bracket NLA the pigtail can come from an EV1 style plug injector harness)
- Intercooler Reservoir with Cap (stock tank requires a Lightning / supercharged Harley truck fan shroud)
- IAC Tube
- Throttle Cable
- Throttle Cable Bracket
- Cruise Control Cable
- IAT1 Sensor (fits in air cleaner)
- IAT2 Sensor (screws into the lower intake / turkey pan)
- Lightning Specific Water Pump or N/A F-150 pump with Spacer
- PCV Tube (left hand side)
- PVC Tube (right hand side)
- TB to MAF Rubber Connector with clamps
- 90mm MAF - stock pulleys can get by with a stock 90mm MAF anything past that, you might as well get a good one straight out
- Intake Gasket Set Available
- In-Tank Fuel Pump (single 255lph pump minimum)
- Upper Radiator Hose (N/A one is shaped differently)
- Upper Two Intercooler Hoses
- Original Equipment Installation Bolts (lower intake to heads, the N/A F-150 ones are too long)
- Drive Pulley with Belt (Boost level of your choice) - might as well go for a 4#lower and stock Lightning upper
my ‘01 supercab has been “Lightning swapped” for a long long time and it’s still a ton of fun to drive, yet docile enough for teenagers to learn to drive and I highly recommend JJ @ woodbine motorsports (WMS) for tuning…
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What are the major differences in the N/A 5.4 and the supercharged 5.4. The block I have for the lightning engine is in pretty bad shape. i have a N/A block that’s in really good condition and I’m wondering if I could build the engine off of the good block I have?
the block is identical the internals are forged in the lightning and only the crank shaft is forged in the na motor but the stock na internals will handle 15 psi of boost before they **** the bed learned that the hard way with a $300 amazon turbo lol since that incident I've dropped to 10 psi with 4.56 diffs and 37" tires I had my CV shafts and hubs cyro treated and I don't know if it actually made a difference but I haven't blown one in the mud yet and I've put just over 80,000 km on it since I did the work
Your correct the rods are the weakest link on the 5.4 2v N/A and the S/C lightning version they are slightly better on the lightning but they could have done better knowing that guys are going to be changing pulleys for more psi but at the same time if you break a rod and shut her down immediately the engine can usually be saved where as if you have solid rods your risking catastrophic failure a little more
the block is identical the internals are forged in the lightning and only the crank shaft is forged in the na motor but the stock na internals will handle 15 psi of boost before they **** the bed learned that the hard way with a $300 amazon turbo lol since that incident I've dropped to 10 psi with 4.56 diffs and 37" tires I had my CV shafts and hubs cyro treated and I don't know if it actually made a difference but I haven't blown one in the mud yet and I've put just over 80,000 km on it since I did the work
considering the pistons are the only difference on the internals
the same rods










