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1990 F350 2WD Dually front rotors are toast. Any recommendations for better than normal ones? I do fairly heavy towing so looking for something that will hold up.
I would be online looking for drilled and slotted rotors and a set of pads to match
Pretty big job replacing dually rotors compared to all the rest
Get the best rotors money can buy is my suggestion and don't get hosed in the process
I believe Cquence has a set for your F350 sku # 1035735CQSS
Otherwise, get the 120 dollar rotors and replace them every few years
124.95 for two, Ebay item number 352604072154
Hard to find OEM Ford disks, sources online are mostly saying discontinued. I wonder how good, Raybestos, Bendix, etc are for stock type. I was not happy some years ago bought some AC Delco brand rotors for a GM truck. They warped within a year, the originals lasted maybe 20 years without warping. So many well known companies now rebrand foreign made parts.
I don't think name brand is as big a deal. I have some advance auto disc's and some generic brake pads I had to mutilate to fit my setup (long story...thanks Centurion) Those cobbled together brakes stop my land yacht no problem and they've been on there for going on 6 years and 30k miles, daily driven.
Just make sure your calipers and lines and such are in good shape, too.
Only if you're going to be running organic pads and doing a lot of fording rivers.
That fad was a 'if it works on a racecar, it must be good' fad from about 1974.
When the gassing from an overheated organic pad was still a problem.
Now, thanks to the science of inorganic matter, the last thing you want to do
to a rotor is put a bunch of stress raisers into it, and remove swept area.
Funniest is that drilling was about 1974, slotting happened a little later to REPLACE drilling,
and none of us who race have done either since the mid '80's. When better pads from companies
like EBC, Porterfield, Dunlop, Motorcraft (yes, the stock HD Ford pads and Ford fluid were (barely) raceworthy) and DF showed up.
A centrally- vented disc without perforations or mass reduction is a far better choice.
Only if you're going to be running organic pads and doing a lot of fording rivers.
That fad was a 'if it works on a racecar, it must be good' fad from about 1974.
When the gassing from an overheated organic pad was still a problem.
Now, thanks to the science of inorganic matter, the last thing you want to do
to a rotor is put a bunch of stress raisers into it, and remove swept area.
Funniest is that drilling was about 1974, slotting happened a little later to REPLACE drilling,
and none of us who race have done either since the mid '80's. When better pads from companies
like EBC, Porterfield, Dunlop, Motorcraft (yes, the stock HD Ford pads and Ford fluid were (barely) raceworthy) and DF showed up.
A centrally- vented disc without perforations or mass reduction is a far better choice.
t
soapbox stander extrordinaire.
Do they still have any valid application for preventing fade in extreme situations? I dont think anything in this thread counts as that, nor do I think anything I do will be that. Just wondering
With statements like that about drilled and slotted pads
Let us know when either of you pass the Masters exam
It will be a while as you have a ton to learn
Stress riser? really?
Back to school;
You have looked at a new Raptor rotor right?
You better start adding IMO after your sentences
With statements like that about drilled and slotted pads
you could try drilling and slotting your brake lines, too, if you wanted...
The one place I found slots
($10 Worldpac closeout slotted rotors for a street car, woo hoo!)
to help was when the rotors got truly wet. THEN the 'dry time' is a lot less.