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I took the carburetor off the 360 in my 1973 F100, to clean and slap a kit in it. But the ID tag is gone, all I know it's a 2150, only markings are "Autolite" on the choke cap.My question is how can I buy a kit with out the carb number off that tag? Are there any markings elsewhere on it? Attaching photos of the carb off my engine
I took the carburetor off the 360 in my 1973 F100, to clean and slap a kit in it. But the ID tag is gone, all I know it's a 2150, only markings are "Autolite" on the choke cap.My question is how can I buy a kit with out the carb number off that tag? Are there any markings elsewhere on it? Attaching photos of the carb off my engine
Timely subject for me as I recently rebuilt the 2100D carbs in my '73 360-2v F100 and my '72 302-2v Mustang. Some tips I can offer:
I've used Walker Products carb kits for decades. They always have everything I need and have never let me down. They are available through RockAuto and many local auto parts stores. Based on the parts that come in the kit and looking at the exploded diagrams, I suspect the same kit is used for both the 2100D and 2150 carb families.
Be sure to purchase a new float. They are not included in any carb rebuild kits that I've ever seen. I like the plastic floats rather than the brass floats because, over time, the soldered joints on the brass floats can develop leaks and the float will fill with fuel.
Carb kits usually come with two of the thin base gaskets, but if your engine uses one of the thick insulating base gaskets, you'll have to buy that separately. I've found the my local O'Reilly and AutoZone stores don't stock them and their catalogs are not always correct about what fits what. I've resorted to buying them off eBay. Takes a few days to get, but in the meantime I can be working on rebuilding the carb and tidying up the top of the engine.
Replace the fuel filter, too. A lot of people don't like the screw-in filter shown in your photos, but I've used them for decades in Mustangs and my truck and I've never had a problem with them. The parts catalogs don't list that type filter for our trucks, since the 360 typically came with a canister-type filter built into the fuel pump. Get a screw-in filter for a Mustang or Galaxie or other Ford. They're all the same.
I use Berryman's Chem-Tool to clean the parts once disassembled. I use the gallon can with the dip basket inside. I put everything that will fit into the dip basket and let it soak a while. To clean the carb body, top plate, and throttle shaft assembly (which are too big to fit in a gallon can), I use a large plastic shoebox (from Walmart) and a small paintbrush. I pour the whole gallon of Berryman's into the shoebox and let the parts soak a while, then go after them with the paintbrush. I wear nitrile gloves to keep the carb cleaner off my skin. After cleaning, I wash all the parts thoroughly with water. I've noticed the sometimes the Berryman's will leave a thin black coating on steel parts such as the choke plate and butterfly plates. It buffs right off with an SOS Pad. I use my air compressor and blow gun to thoroughly blow the liquids out all of the holes and passages in the carb base and the venturi assembly. I don't use any kind of cleaner on the bakelite choke housing. I just dust/blow it out.
The rebuild kit will come with a detailed exploded diagram, but it's a little small and a little generic, so I recommend snapping plenty of detail photos of the carb as you disassemble it. Makes reassembly much easier.
When you get the carb back together and ready to go back on the engine, a good initial setting for the idle mixture needle valves is to turn them all the way in until just snug, then back them out 1.5 turns. You can tweak the mixture as necessary once the engine is running.
