Squeaking pulleys - best source?
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From: NH
Squeaking pulleys - best source?
Both of my 6.0L trucks are chirping a bit at idle. Is it best to just replace all the idler / tensioner pulleys? How many are there total? OEM Ford or aftermarket OK? How hard of a job / what is involved? Thanks in advance!
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Is it your pulleys or your belt, have you isolated it to either?
Grab some windex or other evaporating chemical (even a shot of brake kleen) and pump a few sprays onto the running belt top and the bottom as it is spinning.
If it is your pulleys, you can source them through rock auto, or if you're savvy and handy you can change just the bearing. The latter requires a bit of doing and most people won't do it.
As for the tensioner, if that is the culprit, replace the complete part. If the bearing is failing I am sure the tension spring is dated as well.
Grab some windex or other evaporating chemical (even a shot of brake kleen) and pump a few sprays onto the running belt top and the bottom as it is spinning.
If it is your pulleys, you can source them through rock auto, or if you're savvy and handy you can change just the bearing. The latter requires a bit of doing and most people won't do it.
As for the tensioner, if that is the culprit, replace the complete part. If the bearing is failing I am sure the tension spring is dated as well.
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From: NH
Does the fan have to be removed or just the shroud? I'm capable of changing the bearings, but we're also talking about 20 year old plastic pulleys that have gone through a lot of hot/cold cycles.
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I split the shroud a long ago and remove the upper half. I did not remove the fan but it would give you more room.
IIRC most the idlers are all steel on my '04.
I believe there was only one plastic grooved pulley and that got replaced new.
I changed the bearings twice in its life, but when I pulled the motor out i replaced all new with OEM and the tensioner assembly was AC Delco because the OEM was not available.
IIRC most the idlers are all steel on my '04.
I believe there was only one plastic grooved pulley and that got replaced new.
I changed the bearings twice in its life, but when I pulled the motor out i replaced all new with OEM and the tensioner assembly was AC Delco because the OEM was not available.
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From: NH
Thanks texastech, that pic of the front of the engine is really helpful. Looks like the two independent idlers won't be bad, but the tensioner might be a pain. Just do them all and be done with it.
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Thanks Mark, helpful as well. At least on my 550 it won't be, as I have Muncie hydraulic pump mounted just above that with a second belt off the crank. Not sure what has to come off or not, plus need to do the idlers on the pump belt as well.
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From: NH
To be honest, I don't know. I have replaced the alternator on both my 6.0's, and in both cases my method was unbolting the alternator while applying pressure on it until the last bolt was out. Once the bolts were free, slowly let the pulley end tip down, releasing belt tension. Re-installation was the reverse, just using brute strength I guess.
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