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The truck started misfiring at random times after warmed up, violently misfiring I might add. It started a couple of weeks ago, it would barely run to the point that it wouldn't even start. Then cleared itself up and ran fine. Now as of 2 days ago it would misfire every 10-15 seconds but still drive.
I hooked up Auto Enginuity, results below:
CEL code: P1316 Injector Driver Module codes detected
Buzz test:
Cyl 1,2,3,5,6,8 High to Low side open
Below are the perspective codes for each cylinder:
P1271 Cyl 1
P1272 Cyl 2
P1273 Cyl 3
P1275 Cyl 5
P1276 Cyl 6
P1278 Cyl 8
Cylinder contribution test: 3,8 came back with issues.
Could be CPS from what I've read on here, but I would not rule out the IDM. I'd probably start with the CPS as it is much cheaper and depending on the age of your current CPS, it is not a bad place to start especially if you are going to throw parts at it! IDM would be the next item in my opinion to look at. One note, do not use aftermarket parts. This is all I have based on your info.
Will want to OHM out 42 pin connector to check for injector wiring continuity.
Sounds like a bad UVCH.
He has misfires on both banks. Don’t think he would have both banks giving issues all of a sudden as he has explained. Something else is amiss for both banks to be throwing codes. Cylinder eight and cylinder three are known to throw codes with a cylinder contribution test, even if everything else is right.
He has misfires on both banks. Don’t think he would have both banks giving issues all of a sudden as he has explained. Something else is amiss for both banks to be throwing codes. Cylinder eight and cylinder three are known to throw codes with a cylinder contribution test, even if everything else is right.
Good point, I didn't read very carefully. Both UVCHs probably haven't failed simultaneously, though my truck could do it. I'd check for shorted/chaffed wires at the 42 pin wire harness where it comes in contact with the valve cover.
Certainly start with ohming out the wires from each UVCH connector, 42pin connector, IDM connector, as that's a common failure and low cost. Once that's ruled out, it wouldn't hurt to check the IDM itself for water intrusion/corrosion.
Could be CPS from what I've read on here, but I would not rule out the IDM. I'd probably start with the CPS as it is much cheaper and depending on the age of your current CPS, it is not a bad place to start especially if you are going to throw parts at it! IDM would be the next item in my opinion to look at. One note, do not use aftermarket parts. This is all I have based on your info.
Yes the CPS is a thought, I may have to start there. Mine is not original, I used whichever one was recommended by FTE 8 years ago. IIRC the CPS for pre Powerstroke 7.3 is a better option since they no longer make the "good" CPS anymore? It's been a while since I've researched.
@Kintla I was HOPING it to be the UVCH but as mentioned I have issues on both banks. I lost all hope for that culprit when I saw all the codes.
I've started researching companies that will refurbish the IDM for me. Does anyone a recommendation for a company who can provide this service? Most of what I've found is on ebay for $150-200.
Any other thoughts?
Thank you all for your input.
Certainly start with ohming out the wires from each UVCH connector, 42pin connector, IDM connector, as that's a common failure and low cost. Once that's ruled out, it wouldn't hurt to check the IDM itself for water intrusion/corrosion.
Do you happen to know what the IDM pin-out ohm values should be? I have the values for the 42 pin to the heads, 42 pin to the truck truck/IDM is harder to find.
Do you happen to know what the IDM pin-out ohm values should be? I have the values for the 42 pin to the heads, 42 pin to the truck truck/IDM is harder to find.
Of course Meukster would have the info!! 10 years ago he and Tugly were some of the top most helpful guys. Not sure if they're still on the boards today, thank you so much @Kintla !!
I think you’ll find that this is the place most on here will recommend for IDM repairs.
Awesome. I looked through their website they seem to be exactly what I am looking for. I'm definitely going to call them Monday morning!! Thank you!!!!
Awesome. I looked through their website they seem to be exactly what I am looking for. I'm definitely going to call them Monday morning!! Thank you!!!!
One word of warning. They don't answer phone calls but are prompt to reply to texts. They will answer all your questions with a text that is very focused on what questions you ask, not just a generic response used for everyone.
UPDATE:
So I sent my IDM, PCM & Hydra chip to Diesel Tech for testing. All 3 units came back working A-OK. And they gave me a very detailed analysis of their testing procedures, very pleased. And for $100 it's worth the money to eliminate my computers as the problem.
I went through and checked all the connections at the UVCH's & the 42 pin down to the IDM with no faults found.
I decided to OHM the main engine harness from the IDM connector using a 7.3 Navistar guide I downloaded years ago. I think I found the problem (or 2). Most of the injectors tested between 2.7 to 3.4 OHMs with the exception of #6 which tested at 0.6 OHMs (normal 2.8 to 3.6). First issue found #6 injector solenoid could be failing.
I also checked power feed to ground for both banks which came back as OPEN/OL like they should be.
Here's where things took an interesting twist....
I decided to do the same OHM test after the engine ran at idle for 20 minutes to warm things up, It wouldn't stay running for more than 5 seconds (possibly #6 injector). After 7 or 8 tries the truck finally idled on its own. 20 minutes later I performed the same test.
HERE'S THE TWIST!!! The second issue now has revealed itself. Power feed to the both banks (pin 23 & 24 to 26) now have a short to ground at 10.2 & 10.5 OHMS. Previously they tested OL like they should. The second part of the twist is #6 inject now tested at 3.7 OHMS (previously 0.6) which would explain why the truck eventually ran on it's own.
Now I have to go through the harness with a fine tooth comb and possibly replace #6 solenoid.
Here is the Navistar guide for reference.
Will report back later if anything is found.
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