6.0 HPOP replacement tips.
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2024
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6.0 HPOP replacement tips.
Hi, i have a 2004 F250 with a 6.0(early model) I am about to do a HPOP replacement and I am trying to gather a list of other things in the general area that is a good idea to replace also, I already know of the head gaskets/studs. Also if anyone has recommendations on parts would love to hear them thanks!
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2022
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From: The State of Confusion
Keep things clean and use lint free rags!!
I know the 03's you do, but I can't remember if the early 04's have it or not. There's a crossover piece in the back of the intake manifold that connects the rear of it, and if you have that crossover piece, you'll have to pull the intake manifold to change the HPOP.
This video is a great resource!
-jokester
I know the 03's you do, but I can't remember if the early 04's have it or not. There's a crossover piece in the back of the intake manifold that connects the rear of it, and if you have that crossover piece, you'll have to pull the intake manifold to change the HPOP.
This video is a great resource!
-jokester
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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Then you have a LATE '04 with the wavy oil rails.
Late '04's still have the round HPOP. In fact all '04's have the round HPOP.
Your intake manifold should be the one without the solid crossover piece in the back.
I would plan on checking the dummy plugs and standpipes to see if they have been upgraded or not. Even if they have been upgraded, you may want to put new o-rings/d-rings on them.
If you are set on changing the HPOP (and the only brands worth getting are the CNCFab or the DieselSite pumps), then I would get a new discharge J tube also.
I do not like the EGR cooler that was installed in that engine, prone to failure. Change it to one from BulleProofDiesel if you haven't deleted it.
Late '04's still have the round HPOP. In fact all '04's have the round HPOP.
Your intake manifold should be the one without the solid crossover piece in the back.
I would plan on checking the dummy plugs and standpipes to see if they have been upgraded or not. Even if they have been upgraded, you may want to put new o-rings/d-rings on them.
If you are set on changing the HPOP (and the only brands worth getting are the CNCFab or the DieselSite pumps), then I would get a new discharge J tube also.
I do not like the EGR cooler that was installed in that engine, prone to failure. Change it to one from BulleProofDiesel if you haven't deleted it.
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2024
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Had all the dummy plugs upgraded already, I know my head gasket has a very slight leak I believe in the back. I was told it is worth fixing that, as well as doing the head studs while I have all of this pulled off. Should I have the factory heads refurbished at a machine shop or buy new ones if so what brand do you recommend?
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Fleet Owner
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How do you know for sure you have a current head gasket leak (your tests, or is it what someone told you)?
Are you the original owner?
Have the heads been off before?
If they have been off before, were they machined?
Do you have confidence in the machine shop that would do the work (many factors to doing the head refurbishment correctly)?
How many miles on the engine?
Have you verified that your oil cooler isn't plugged?
What coolant are you running?
Has the engine ever been run hot?
Do you want to add power (tunes)?
Is cost a big factor?
Is time a big factor?
Are you doing the work with plans to keep it a VERY long time, or is it a "flip"?
Are you the original owner?
Have the heads been off before?
If they have been off before, were they machined?
Do you have confidence in the machine shop that would do the work (many factors to doing the head refurbishment correctly)?
How many miles on the engine?
Have you verified that your oil cooler isn't plugged?
What coolant are you running?
Has the engine ever been run hot?
Do you want to add power (tunes)?
Is cost a big factor?
Is time a big factor?
Are you doing the work with plans to keep it a VERY long time, or is it a "flip"?
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 13
Likes: 3
Slight drop in coolant levels, I’m guessing slight leak in head gasket or slight cracks in the heads themselves, cost isn’t of a factor really, I want close to stock no crazy upgrades, 130k miles I am 2nd owner original was very meticulous with the maintenance oil changes every 3-5k miles and coolant flush at the dealership every other maintenance. I plan to keep this truck until it falls to pieces I wanted this model/motor and paid well above market value for it I am not opposed to spending whatever it takes to make it last as long as possible. The machine shop that will be doing the work is the best one around. I have zero implication that the heads have ever been off before. Oil and coolant is motorcraft from the dealership.
Last edited by Zach H.; Feb 10, 2024 at 11:51 AM.
Fleet Owner
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I guess I would want proof of a head gasket leak. You may not have one if all you are going on is a slight loss of coolant.
I would have a pressure gauge tee'd into a degas bottle hose and watch the pressures in the degas bottle. Lots of threads on that.
Even if you find that something is adding pressure to the degas bottle (other than liquid expansion from heating up the coolant), I would remove the EGR cooler and do a pressure test on it out of the truck. Who knows, that might be your real issue. Quite frankly, the place to start for me would be a pressure test on the cooling system - just to make sure there are absolutely NO external leaks.
If you do remove the heads, re-using them would depend on their condition (thickness, cracks, etc).
Personally, if I were going to go to all that trouble, I would want o-ringed heads, but that is another discussion in itself. It will be a very expensive thing to do. Maybe only NECESSARY if you add power.
Also, note that the block surface is important to get right, just as is the head surface (flat, proper finish, etc).
I would have a pressure gauge tee'd into a degas bottle hose and watch the pressures in the degas bottle. Lots of threads on that.
Even if you find that something is adding pressure to the degas bottle (other than liquid expansion from heating up the coolant), I would remove the EGR cooler and do a pressure test on it out of the truck. Who knows, that might be your real issue. Quite frankly, the place to start for me would be a pressure test on the cooling system - just to make sure there are absolutely NO external leaks.
If you do remove the heads, re-using them would depend on their condition (thickness, cracks, etc).
Personally, if I were going to go to all that trouble, I would want o-ringed heads, but that is another discussion in itself. It will be a very expensive thing to do. Maybe only NECESSARY if you add power.
Also, note that the block surface is important to get right, just as is the head surface (flat, proper finish, etc).
Thread Starter
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4wd Low
Joined: Feb 2024
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Ok all of this will be done at a mechanics shop but unfortunately around me there aren’t many diesel shops so we are trying to figure it all out ourselves at the moment. The other question I have is upgrading from plastic caps to billet aluminum filter caps is this recommended or not? I have seen mixed reviews on this.
Fleet Owner
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I've never seen the need to get rid of the plastic filter caps, unless you want a port on them for getting a pressure reading. If you get a well made billet aluminum cap, then there aren't any downsides except cost.
It is cheap and easy for an owner to tee in a pressure gauge into one of the small vapor hoses that connect to the side of the degas bottle. With that pressure gauge you can decide for yourself if you really do need head gaskets. If you are past that decision point, and the work will be done at a shop (not by you), then you just need to get busy with the funds budgeting and acquisition!
It can get to $10k easily - even without buying new heads.
It is cheap and easy for an owner to tee in a pressure gauge into one of the small vapor hoses that connect to the side of the degas bottle. With that pressure gauge you can decide for yourself if you really do need head gaskets. If you are past that decision point, and the work will be done at a shop (not by you), then you just need to get busy with the funds budgeting and acquisition!
It can get to $10k easily - even without buying new heads.
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,608
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Slight drop in coolant levels, I’m guessing slight leak in head gasket or slight cracks in the heads themselves, cost isn’t of a factor really, I want close to stock no crazy upgrades, 130k miles I am 2nd owner original was very meticulous with the maintenance oil changes every 3-5k miles and coolant flush at the dealership every other maintenance. I plan to keep this truck until it falls to pieces I wanted this model/motor and paid well above market value for it I am not opposed to spending whatever it takes to make it last as long as possible. The machine shop that will be doing the work is the best one around. I have zero implication that the heads have ever been off before. Oil and coolant is motorcraft from the dealership.
Not sure why you over paid for a truck that needs major work, but to to each his own.
Careful what you wish for regarding spending whatever it takes.....you're bound to get fkd over by shops that "think" they know how to fix these trucks. This isn't your typical diesel and you will soon find out if your "mechanic" knows what's up.
If I had a dollar for every time a new owner came on this site, asking for advice and claiming to have the best mechanic, and inadvertently getting screwed I'd be rich.
Be careful....not a **** talk just advice