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Not sure why you over paid for a truck that needs major work, but to to each his own.
Careful what you wish for regarding spending whatever it takes.....you're bound to get fkd over by shops that "think" they know how to fix these trucks. This isn't your typical diesel and you will soon find out if your "mechanic" knows what's up.
If I had a dollar for every time a new owner came on this site, asking for advice and claiming to have the best mechanic, and inadvertently getting screwed I'd be rich.
Be careful....not a **** talk just advice
first time 6.0 owner I have a 6.7 and if you think that the 6.0 is the only diesel with problems I implore you to check again. I never said my mechanic is a master. And you pay well over market value for everything you buy every day (I am a financial analyst) so that comment I don’t quite understand. Thanks for the advise I will take it into consideration regardless! I should also add that at the time “well above market value was 12.5k for this 04 Lariat southern truck in perfect condition being sold due to rising diesel fuel prices exceeding 8 dollars a gallon in California.
I think Joe's point is that you could easily spend a lot of money on this and still end up having problems with it over the long haul.
On these forums we see quite a few people that have had BIG problems after a shop does a major rebuild. More so than if the person does it himself (seems that way anyway). There are many shops that talk a good line, but cut corners and/or make poor choices. It can be a lack of specific knowledge on the 6.0L, OR it can be shoddy work or fraud (we see that periodically also).
We just hate to see it anyone have big problems. The successful ones, are usually the ones that become knowledgeable of the engine, and get involved in monitoring, data collection, and troubleshooting.
Come to think of it a lot of my problems occurred after ford replaced my injectors, however I also realize that the 6.0 has many high fail items and I prefer this body and engine to the 6.7 I currently have with the issues it has😅
My problems originated a few weeks ago, everything was fine I pulled an excavator to my house for some work then the next day, I couldn’t get it to stay running, it will idle all day long I can even rev it up in park and there are no problems. Once I drive the truck sputters out as if it’s out of gas. It’s on a full tank, brand new injectors, fuel filters. I again replaced the fuel filters and o rings on both fuel filter caps as I read those can suck in air even if replaced brand new. I then replaced the fuel pump under the driver door, the problem still persists. I know the hpop makes the injectors fire so that is my next go to correct? Or is there something I’m missing. (All the other work is known issues the 6.0 has that I would rather fix sooner while the engine is apart rather than later)
My problems originated a few weeks ago, everything was fine I pulled an excavator to my house for some work then the next day, I couldn’t get it to stay running, it will idle all day long I can even rev it up in park and there are no problems. Once I drive the truck sputters out as if it’s out of gas. It’s on a full tank, brand new injectors, fuel filters. I again replaced the fuel filters and o rings on both fuel filter caps as I read those can suck in air even if replaced brand new. I then replaced the fuel pump under the driver door, the problem still persists. I know the hpop makes the injectors fire so that is my next go to correct? Or is there something I’m missing. (All the other work is known issues the 6.0 has that I would rather fix sooner while the engine is apart rather than later)
The secondary fuel filter is under pressure, so it is not going to suck in air at the cap o-ring.
As far as your problems go, you really should get a scan tool. We recommend it because the 6.0L is somewhat complicated, but also because you can get an incredibly powerful scan tool at a low cost. It can save you a TON of time and money!
FORScan on a smartphone is only a few dollars for the download, and maybe around $40 for an OBDII adapter (depends on your device).
With that scan tool, we can also look at the performance of the high pressure oil system, FICM, sensor health, codes, etc.
Also, fuel pressure is important, so maybe a billet cap for the secondary fuel filter could provide an easy point to install a pressure gauge (for temporary pressure checking). That said, the fuel pressure regulator is on the side of the secondary fuel filter and there is a test port at that location for pressure testing. Most of us add a sensor there and install an electronic gauge for continuous fuel pressure monitoring. You can have low fuel pressure even with a new fuel pump and new filters.
I think Joe's point is that you could easily spend a lot of money on this and still end up having problems with it over the long haul. -That was exactly my point.
On these forums we see quite a few people that have had BIG problems after a shop does a major rebuild. More so than if the person does it himself (seems that way anyway). There are many shops that talk a good line, but cut corners and/or make poor choices. It can be a lack of specific knowledge on the 6.0L, OR it can be shoddy work or fraud (we see that periodically also).
We just hate to see it anyone have big problems. The successful ones, are usually the ones that become knowledgeable of the engine, and get involved in monitoring, data collection, and troubleshooting.
I guess I would want proof of a head gasket leak. You may not have one if all you are going on is a slight loss of coolant.
I would have a pressure gauge tee'd into a degas bottle hose and watch the pressures in the degas bottle. Lots of threads on that.
Even if you find that something is adding pressure to the degas bottle (other than liquid expansion from heating up the coolant), I would remove the EGR cooler and do a pressure test on it out of the truck. Who knows, that might be your real issue. Quite frankly, the place to start for me would be a pressure test on the cooling system - just to make sure there are absolutely NO external leaks.
Just to piggyback on this, there are a multitude of possible leak points that can be tricky to locate -- especially if they are light leaks. At one point or another I've had leaks at both the upper and lower radiator hoses. Likewise the egr cooler to oil cooler hose can leak as well as the egr cooler itself if you still have it in place. It really helps to find leaks by pressuring the system.
Also, sounds like your coolant is Ford Gold. Recommend you flush your system and change to a CAT EC-1 extended life rated coolant.
If you opt to flush and change it, I'd also recommend you put fumoto or EZ-drain valves in place of the block drain plugs for easier drains in the future. The passenger side drain plug is a royal pain to access behind the starter. My passenger side EZ-drain valve has a short piece of hose attached and just zip tied out of the way, but easily accessible when it comes time to drain so coolant isn't just splashing everywhere. It has the right-angle drain fitting and just barely misses touching the starter cable and lug. I think I bent it a little for better clearance. Pics with and without hose below.
Just to piggyback on this, there are a multitude of possible leak points that can be tricky to locate -- especially if they are light leaks. At one point or another I've had leaks at both the upper and lower radiator hoses. Likewise the egr cooler to oil cooler hose can leak as well as the egr cooler itself if you still have it in place. It really helps to find leaks by pressuring the system.
Also, sounds like your coolant is Ford Gold. Recommend you flush your system and change to a CAT EC-1 extended life rated coolant.
If you opt to flush and change it, I'd also recommend you put fumoto or EZ-drain valves in place of the block drain plugs for easier drains in the future. The passenger side drain plug is a royal pain to access behind the starter. My passenger side EZ-drain valve has a short piece of hose attached and just zip tied out of the way, but easily accessible when it comes time to drain so coolant isn't just splashing everywhere. It has the right-angle drain fitting and just barely misses touching the starter cable and lug. I think I bent it a little for better clearance. Pics with and without hose below.
this is a fantastic idea! Thank you you have now saved me a ton of knuckle busting😂. The reason I believe my leak is internal of the motor is due to the lack of spotting under my truck there would be residual spots under if it was leaking to the outside right?
this is a fantastic idea! Thank you you have now saved me a ton of knuckle busting😂. The reason I believe my leak is internal of the motor is due to the lack of spotting under my truck there would be residual spots under if it was leaking to the outside right?
A very light leak could cook-off depending on its drain path. Some of those drain paths, just like with some oil leaks, can be convoluted. An example would be the egr cooler to oil cooler hose. It will drain downhill towards the back of the engine. Likewise, a light leak with a convoluted drain path may not leak except under pressure and never collect enough of a pool to see when parked and not running long enough. Not saying you are wrong though. It's just assumptions can often lead to a lot of wasted money, time and effort when it comes to diagnosis. Also, be sure your degas reservoir isn't burping/venting coolant. Look for white spots underneath your hood.
Drain block plugs are 16mm-1.5 thread. Both the Fumoto and EZ-Drain valves use the number 108 in their part numbers for this.
EZ-108 RH (valve with removeable hose end) or EZ-108 with L-shaped removeable hose end (right angle elbow).
Then there is the Fumoto F108N and F108S (short nipple). So pay attention to what nipple/hose end combination you want when deciding which valve to order. Maybe the guys who used Fumoto on theirs can tell you what fits on the passenger side best. With mine the clearance was very tight, but made it and I did slightly bend the lug back a little to increase the clearance to the elbow nipple. On the drivers side, I used the straight nipple instead of the L-shaped.
FORScan is an absolute MUST have and if your exhaust ain't showing signs of burning coolant it's probably a small leak evaporating/burning off the block somewhere.
Also are you figuring there's coolant loss going off the level of fluid in degas bottle?
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