2019 F250 XLT 4x4 6.2L 128K. So for about 3 months, I have had a slight pull to the left. Truck drives amazing otherwise. Decided to take it to Ford for an alignment. They said $130, then they called me out to the shop once the truck was on the lift to show me a bad passenger ujoint (thats another thread I will be starting). They said I would need "bushings" to get my truck into spec. The $130 price went to $502 and I told them to take my truck off the lift and I would go home and research what I need to do, that their price was insane.

So I'm learning and it seems like the SPC 2.3° and 2.6° is what I am going to purchase and install myself. Since they call these camber/caster bushings, do they adjust camber at the same time as well? I see so many posts of people saying that they don't even get an alignment after installing these. Is toe really the only thing an alignment tech can actually adjust? These camber/caster bushings "set a certain degree" and is not adjustable? Truck just slightly pulls left and installing these shims would give me .3° more on the right side, seemingly curing my issue. I will get an alignment after installing if it doesn't fix it.

I will say, my last alignment was right after I installed a new trac bar, drag link and end. The alignment specs at that time showed caster at 2.8 on both sides and the driver side had 0.0 camber and the passenger side -0.2 camber. From my research the above mentioned SPC sleeves should possibly fix the pull to the left. I did request a caster of 4 degrees or more and thats when the tech said I needed the new bushings. I have a full selection of tools and replacing them seems like a breeze, but any comments clarifying how these bushings actually work and if they are "adjustable" or "set them and that is" are welcome.

 

those sleeves change the camber slightly. generally the 2.6* will go on the passenger side and the 2.3* will go on the driver. higher on passenger to compensate for road crown and reduce the right pull.
if you have a left pull, might need to look elsewhere.
what are your current alignment specs? what tires are you running? any nitrogen charged steering stabilizers, like Carli?

specs on the alignment sleeves:
23268 Cam +.50 / Cas +2.3
23269 Cam +.30 / Cas +2.6

 

No, nothing fancy. I put a Bilstein 5100 stabilizer on, but that didn't change anything. I listed my current specs above and from other members posts, camber will pull more to the positive side, which is my left driver side. I am running Falken Wildpeak AT3W 295/70/18. These sleeves when installed as directed would make the passenger side have slightly higher caster over my current specs. Granted I am going off my last alignment a few months ago. I had them take the truck off the rack yesterday and didn't think to get a printout of what it was currently at.. I may call them.

 

you need to see what your current specs are. swapping the sleeves won't necessarily decrease your caster. what sleeves are in there now?
your pull could be due to toe as well.

 

I don't want to decrease my caster, I want to increase it. The tech said it has the factory sleeves in it now. I requested the caster to be over 4 degrees and he said he could not do it with the oem sleeves that are in it now and would have to put in a kit that they had, but the cost went from $130 to $500!! I called them and they are emailing me the current specs. All I need is the left pull to go away and I am not competent enough to adjust toe in my driveway........at least I think I am not.

 

 

you need your current specs.
if your specs are the same as they were, 2.8* caster both sides, swapping those shims would give you probably high 3s to low 4s, higher on passenger side. not sure how your camber will change. if camber stayed relatively the same, higher caster on passenger side could increase the left pull.
it's a shot in the dark until you know your starting point

 

I am hearing that the alignment was going to be $130, and then you asked for a spec beyond what is possible with stock parts, and the price went to $500. That price includes the replacement parts, and the labor to disassemble and remove the stock parts, to install new, and then make the adjustments.

Not saying the price is great, I have no idea how much work is involved, or what the parts cost, but I think it is not as bad as you think.

Have you asked how far they could get with the stock parts? Would that be enough for you?

Or, would you want to install the parts yourself, and then have the shop perform the alignment for $130?

 

The SPC sleeves I can get for $70 and install takes literally 10 minutes per side. You just remove the front tires, pull the cotter pin from the castle nut on the top ball joint, back the nut off, a few good whacks with a 3lb hammer, take out the factory sleeve insert the new sleeve and torque to 75lb ft, tighten a little more until the ball joint hole and castle nut groove line up, insert new cotter pin, put your tires back on and you are done. Easy peasy. Spend $70 to save $370...........seems like a no brainer.

 

@kylant my current specs are in post 6, thats the sheet from yesterday.

 

phone wasn't showing that pic when i posted.
try the shims. they may help.

your toe is all out of whack. it is worse after

 

Nothing was adjusted, lol. Not sure what you are seeing that says toe is worse after. I am getting the shims regardless as I want the caster higher than what they can adjust. I am concerned with the camber now that I see the current specs.

 

I think he might have been looking at the individual tow numbers on the lower, "current" alignment. They had the steering way off if center which skewed some of the numbers. Total toe was basically the same. The top "before" numbers look to be the most accurate.

 

Yep, I see that now. Should I be concerned with those top camber numbers? I am not sure how they adjust camber on these trucks. Ill be ordering the SPC 2.3/2.6 kit Monday as soon as Dana confirms the correct axle shaft I need for the front right side.

 

I believe the eccentric bushings can adjust camber and caster at the same time. Camber is adjusted with the in/out offset while caster is adjusted with the front/back offset. So depending on the orientation it can be all caster, all camber, or somewhere in between. The instructions included will probably tell you which way to orient them for the desired result.