When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I put the SPC -2.3, -2.6 in my 22 250 with 1 1/2" level. Did nothing else to it, never got alignment. Drives perfect even when towing, no abnormal wear.
Did you know your original numbers? Regardless, I am having an alignment done. My thinking is now, just let the independent shop handle it. I'd hate to spend $80 on bushings that they don't want to use...... They told me $110 alignment and $20-100 for bushings. It's a smaller shop near me that I trust, they have just never done an alignment for me. He will put my truck on the rack get the numbers he needs then align it, if he has the correct sleeves, if not, he will order them and have them a day or 2 later, which I'm fine with. I still wanted to know how all this works as I like learning, so thanks for all the suggestions so far.
I just went through this. We had similar camber numbers, positive one side and negative on the other. I wanted about a degree more caster. I was at 2.9 L 3.1 R.
I put in the SPC sleeve 23226, 1.5 degrees more caster.
I have an appointment to get the alignment checked and adjust the toe. I won't stop until it is right, even if it means that I go through a few more sleeves of differing sizes, and pay for additional alignments. These trucks are too expensive to call things good enough when they aren't right on.
Installing the SPC sleeves on a new ('23) truck was super easy, since there wasn't corrosion making them stick in place. Way less than a half hour to do both sides, including wheel removal.
I've pretty much washed my hands with the second, small town shop. They tried 6 times to align it, after the 3rd attempt, I asked why he was using the draglink to adjust toe, he said because that's how you do it. I said no, you adjust toe using the tie rod bar, drag link adjusts the steering wheel being centered. I called a dedicated alignment shop, they told me they have fully adjustable camber/casters sleeves and do a ton of Superdutys, going there next Friday.
That sounds like you are on your way to success. My truck drove great even with alignment numbers that hurt my eyes, or as Ford calls it, good enough. The OCD part of me wants to have it dialed in.
I've pretty much washed my hands with the second, small town shop. They tried 6 times to align it, after the 3rd attempt, I asked why he was using the draglink to adjust toe, he said because that's how you do it. I said no, you adjust toe using the tie rod bar, drag link adjusts the steering wheel being centered. I called a dedicated alignment shop, they told me they have fully adjustable camber/casters sleeves and do a ton of Superdutys, going there next Friday.
Sounds like you found the right place then. I never have the dealer do alignments, I take it to a shop that knows what they are doing. I would do it myself if I had the equipment, but get it close enough to drive with a tape measure and level.
I put the SPC -2.3, -2.6 in my 22 250 with 1 1/2" level. Did nothing else to it, never got alignment. Drives perfect even when towing, no abnormal wear.
Does adding caster not decrease the toe-in?
Probably ok anyway as these trucks come with excessive toe-in alot of times
Probably ok anyway as these trucks come with excessive toe-in alot of times
It may decrease. Increasing castor puts the top of the tire axis towards the rear which tends to move the front of the tire out. Decreasing Castor will increase toe in. It may also make zero difference due to the small change the shims make.
It may decrease. Increasing castor puts the top of the tire axis towards the rear which tends to move the front of the tire out. Decreasing Castor will increase toe in. It may also make zero difference due to the small change the shims make.
I had had one too many beers when I threw my shims in, I checked it with ruffstuff plates and tape before and after shims. I remember the toe changed, I do know it wasnt much.
The SPC sleeves I can get for $70 and install takes literally 10 minutes per side. You just remove the front tires, pull the cotter pin from the castle nut on the top ball joint, back the nut off, a few good whacks with a 3lb hammer, take out the factory sleeve insert the new sleeve and torque to 75lb ft, tighten a little more until the ball joint hole and castle nut groove line up, insert new cotter pin, put your tires back on and you are done. Easy peasy. Spend $70 to save $370...........seems like a no brainer.
Two things - If you are not seeing unusual tire wear, go slow with throwing parts at the truck. Have you tried rotating the tires to see if it still pulls? Radial pull is real - and it happens way more than people think.
The 2nd thing - I've installed these bushings on my own truck twice and on several friends trucks. 10 minutes per side is VERY optimistic for an install time. There are a number of posts in this forum with members who had serious issues trying to get their factory sleeves removed. Words of advice - spray everything with PB Blaster the night before and do not pry on the lip of the sleeve when trying to remove it. The metal is brittle and it will snap. AMHIK.
Probably ok anyway as these trucks come with excessive toe-in alot of times
It probably does, but I have not noticed any issues. When I put my level in, my tire shop checked all my numbers when putting tires on and said they were "within specs" but the tech did not print a sheet. We all know that "within specs" from Ford are not good. It has been over 20,000 miles now and all is still good. Even pulling my 34' 5th wheel, it handles perfectly.
An air chisel to vibrate the old shim helps get the old ones out.
I actually installed my 2° shims a few weeks ago, took a couple hours and had to slightly recenter the steering wheel. Drives nice and straight, tracks great. Steering wheel feel took a couple weeks to get used to (a heavier feel) but the truck feels amazing now. No, I didn't get an alignment and will keep and eye on the tires, but I more than happy with it as of now.
Two things - If you are not seeing unusual tire wear, go slow with throwing parts at the truck. Have you tried rotating the tires to see if it still pulls? Radial pull is real - and it happens way more than people think.
The 2nd thing - I've installed these bushings on my own truck twice and and several friends trucks. 10 minutes per side is VERY optimistic for an install time. There are a number of posts in this forum with members who had serious issues trying to get their factory sleeves removed. Words of advice - spray everything with PB Blaster the night before and do not pry on the lip of the sleeve when trying to remove it. The metal is brittle and it will snap. AMHIK.
Radial pull is real for sure. I had one tire I could not put on the front drivers side. The tire was balanced well, but would pull to the left, noticeably. After about 7,000 miles it evidently "wore in" and now does not cause an issue. I threw my bushings in because the front end was light while pulling. The shims eliminated that.
Same here, I eliminated 90% of my issue with 2 tire rotation tries, so it was a tire. As far as towing, I have towed my 28' pontoon after the shims and it felt great. Haven't hooked our 31' TT up yet, but just got back from a 500 mile trip to SE Missouri on a float trip and was pleased with the trucks manners even at 78mph.
I actually installed my 2° shims a few weeks ago, took a couple hours and had to slightly recenter the steering wheel. Drives nice and straight, tracks great. Steering wheel feel took a couple weeks to get used to (a heavier feel) but the truck feels amazing now. No, I didn't get an alignment and will keep and eye on the tires, but I more than happy with it as of now.
You can kiss any chance of Death Wobble Good Bye! The heavier feel is why Ford has the caster specs so low, it will take more effort to turn due to the fact the tires now want to go true straight ahead, they compromise so it drives like a car. Bet it has better sharper turning now too. Mine did.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.