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The junkyard is where I would start
All the Ford cars and trucks had one from that era
There are a few different styles of mounting tab and wiring connections
There are a bunch of them on Ebay
Just punch in Ford IVR
Standard VRC-606 may be the OEM supplier for Ford
The rest I see on Ebay for 25 bucks or so are solid state new China ones
Should be able to get two of them at pick n pull for 5-10 bucks
I looked at a bunch of them and none of them said compatible with 83 Ford E250.I bought a Daniel Carpenter D1AZ-10804 because it said compatible with 74 - 86 Mustangs and a similar year range with F-Series but only 71 - 72 Econolines. So I asked if the voltage and pulse was the same and just the mounting was different, this one had two buttons that snapped in, so I could just wire it up and Daniel Carpenter, Blue Oval and Mac’s Auto Supply could not tell me. The current from all of those from that era is the same with just different mounts? That is what I do not know.
The junkyards around here are hard to trust, like I said. The only Pull a Part is way out of the area. Maybe I will try them if I can not find something on EBay. Standard VRC-606?
Edit: Just looked a little bit on EBay, the VRC-604 is between $70 and $100. The junkyards are starting to look good.
Thanks
mjac
I think they all put out a pulsating 5.5 volts
Did you not see one with the mounting like yours?
Standard motor products has been known to make Ford switches for them
I think that VRC-604 may be OEM quality
All the ones I used to see looked like this one
Do you not have one to match it up with? So, these are mostly all the same with a few exceptions.
You are right on the money. That is what I have from Daniel Carpenter with that mount. Now, that is not my mount, my original IVR was a long plastic piece that fit into a slot behind the instrument panel. I haven’t seen anything close to that. But I called up Carpenter today and their IVR, #D1AZ-10804, fits mustangs from 1974-1986 ( like your picture states) and all F-150s, F-250s and F-350s of that period. Mac’s told me it also fits 71-72 Econolines. So I am guessing the voltage and the pulse are the same as mine but the mount is different. She told me the snaps are standard 9V battery snaps, so I ordered some off Amazon and will cut them in half and snap them on independently. A guy on a forum I caught by accident said on most Fords the male snap on the IVR is usually the input so the supply snap would be female for safety reasons to lessen the chance of it shorting out when disconnected. All of that is my best guess.
There it is, a Daniel Carpenter D1AZ-1084. Going to hook it up with 9v snap battery connectors from Amazon and wire the supply and the gauges off of the snaps’ leads. Was going to cut one of the snaps in half but now going to just use two snaps and wire off of the appropriate lead. Not bad for guesswork.
I would have to look at a schematic, but I believe the case of the IVR just bolts to the plastic instrument cluster and does not need a ground
I never really looked into the theory and operation of the IVR
And I do not remember them discussing it in screwell
We used to just test the 5.5v output (at any gauge sender wire) and if not there it gets a new IVR
At first I felt foolish even asking, but now am glad I did because I did not fully understand how the IVR works and sending units work. I just read somebody saying you don’t ground the gauges you ground IVR and the sending units ground themselves when they bolt up and it is the measuring of that circuit which somehow moves the gauges. But as I think about it,the supply line to the IVR is grounded, not the IVR itself. All it does is regulate the grounded current running through it so it can be just screwed to the back of the case, saving me a lot of work. I looked at my old IVR slot (I will get a picture) and it does not look like it is grounded, so I think you are right.
On another note, I had trouble testing this IVR with the digital Fluke Multimeter. Because of the pulse, do you need a dial multimeter? I ran twelve volts to the supply side of the IVR, shoved the IVR against a wire brushed part of the frame and stuck the negative probe against the frame and the positive probe against the output side of the IVR. (?)…Sorry about the length but I was getting ready to make mistake #10.
I just got my “Standard” Voltage Regulator because you said “Standard” supplies OEM to Ford, VR166T ($20) and it feels twice as heavy and solid as the $40 ACDelco. You use Ford parts to fix Chevys, not Chevy parts to fix Fords baby…Where did I hear that?
Maybe, never really tested one using a DVOM or an analog multimeter
Just a test light looking for a pulsating dim glow
That is how you test the gauge circuit
First with a test light to check for the pulsating dim glow
Then, if present you ground the wire and watch the gauge peg
It either pegs or it don't
It either needs a sender or it needs the wiring ohmed out to the gauge and the pulsating voltage checked there
Never thought of that, a test light would tell if it is working or not. But I was concerned about using aa alternative IVR and I thought it was important to see if the alternative IVR put out the 5 or 6 volts everyone says the Fords from that era used. I got one quick reading of 5, but I could never get it back. Probably worrying about it too much. This is the back of the instrument panel, that slot center left down a bit is where the original IVR slid into and made contact with the circuit board ribbon, don’t see any ground. That is the bottom of the Instrument Panel, if I remember correctly I traced the circuit board ribbon from the IVR to the left side post as you look at it on every gauge. Is there any way to verify that post is the input post on the gauges?
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