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EBPV delete confusion

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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 05:36 PM
  #1  
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EBPV delete confusion

Ok call me stupid lads, first time 10-day 7.3 owner here. Looking at deleting the EBPV while I'm doing the Pedestal o-rings that are leaking. My question is:

Why do you have to modify (or replace with deleted) the Pedestal valve actuator? Why can't you just leave it alone and delete the valve from the turbo?

I would think that the actuator and rod would just do its thing without being attached to anything and no harm no foul, but I'm guessing that I'm missing something as nobody seems to mention this as an option.

Cheers lads, love my 1999 f350.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 06:45 PM
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You can. Just disconnect the wiring harness from it so it doesn’t stroke.
Seems like that’s the method I used years back with my long ago sold OBS.

I think most delete it to prevent a potential leak point at the seal.

SkySkiJason has a DIY method in our tech folder. Here’s a link.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19128980

Oh, and congratulations on your “new” truck!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
You can. Just disconnect the wiring harness from it so it doesn’t stroke.
Seems like that’s the method I used years back with my long ago sold OBS.

I think most delete it to prevent a potential leak point at the seal.

SkySkiJason has a DIY method in our tech folder. Here’s a link.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19128980

Oh, and congratulations on your “new” truck!
Thank you! My thoughts exactly!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2024 | 08:09 PM
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It really boils down to economics. The plunger is operated by the engine oil. When the seal on the plunger wears out they leak oil everywhere. The rebuild kit is stupidly priced @ $130+ vs a diy delete for $5 or even a cast as deleted pedestal for like $40 off eBay. Unless you live where it's way below freezing in the winter us southerners just delete it. We don't need the faster warm-up it provides for that price point
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 12:10 AM
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Yep, potential oil leak is the main reason to get it out of there. Once upon a time there was a video floating around the Googleverse detailing how to delete the actuator and keep the factory pedestal. I'm sure it's still out there somewhere, but honestly the delete pedestals have gotten so cheap I wouldn't consider it worth the hassle versus $50-$60 from Amazon or eBay. Heck you can get the pedestal, housing, and all the o rings ect. for about a bill. That's not even a drop in the bucket of what the ol' girl will bleed from you before she's had her fill.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by udsuth78
Once upon a time there was a video floating around the Googleverse detailing how to delete the actuator and keep the factory pedestal.
SSJ details the process in the link I shared.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2024 | 10:46 AM
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I just did this both ways on our 2 trucks. I originally planned to do the DIY method on both oem existing pedestals, but broke the brittle plug on the Excursion. So I had to order another high flow exhaust outlet which came with the aftermarket EBPV delete pedestal...think it was like $55 for both. The reasoning to keep one DIY and using the plug was to keep from having the code. Most say it's a soft code and doesn't light up the SES dash light, but the Excursion sets that light for any little thing...including just having one glow plug go out. Since you already have the pedestal off, it's easy to remove the actuator rod then simply run a tap in the hole and install a plug. If you go the route like I did for my F350...aftermarket pedestal delete with high flow exhaust housing...do not use the pedestal o-rings they supply. Spend the couple extra dollars and buy the oem factory units from dieselorings.com and save the ones from the kit for spare stuck on the side of the road situation...
 
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