It's actually only $400

 

Is what is in the picture all that you are getting for $400? I got everything as it sits in the vehicle for that price. Prices have really gone up.

 

The yard I deal with deals mostly for metal scrap value - selling car parts is NOT their money-maker. They don't want to be bothered with inventory, pricing, what parts fit what, or whatever. They'll stockpile cars when scrap value is low, and process them when the price goes up. The owner basically has a $200 standing bid on each one of the cars at the local salvage auctions - again that's just for the metal scrap value of most cars. So selling a complete engine/trans for $200 and he already breaks even PLUS he still has the scrap metal value for the alloy wheels, catalysts, radiator and AC condenser, body shell, wiring...

 

Longblocks here that I pull run about $400. Best to look at oil change stickers and body damage to see if a wreck sent it there.

 

Changed my mind on the 351. Just gonna stick with my 5.0 and use that money to put towards it. Cam and carb swap. Should pair well with my long tubes and 3.55's and 5 speed

 

i agree partially, I believe a cam itself gets you most of the HP. but why the carb.. you have a working EFI...

 

I don't care for speed density at all

 

Speaking from personal experience, OK?

The SD in this vintage can support an honest 300 flywheel HP & corresponding TQ, from below 32* to 120+ 24/7/365.

I changed to 100% stock MAF untuned & gained a whopping10, maybe 12-15 HP.

If you need more, you spend the cash.

I changed to Stinger's PimpXshift & the first thing they told me was don't bother with the MAF unless you just want to be different.

I now run sequential SD.

By all means, spend the time & money however you wish.

 

Part of not liking SD is it doesn't play well with cams with a tighter lsa. And I want to put a cam in and know it's there and have the lope.

 

Never mind .

 

Speed density tuning isnt that hard. If you want to get into it, eectuning.org can help you, and there are knowledgeable peeps here

 

100+ year old technology is a lot better than that newfangled 40 year old stuff. I believe you are mistaken on what the speed density can handle especially with an aftermarket (PimpX) computer. It’s your time and money… Good luck with your project.

 

Ah so you want that chop... in a 5.0...in a truck...

Take it from someone that has been there. If you want a choppy cam in one of these trucks with the 5.0 i have a list for you.

1. Gears, 4.56s no less. No, 4.10s will not cut it.
2. Small port high velocity heads, forget fancy 2.02 valves with 185 or bigger ports. You will lose velocity and not have any usable torque.
3. Stay small with the carb. 500 to 550 cfm vacuum secondary max. Anyone that tells you that your truck 302 needs a double pumper is not your friend. I have won plenty of "hot stock" truck pulls with a 450hp 400 inch engine using a vacuum secondary 750... way more torque and far broader powerband than a cammed 302 can dream about.
4. GEARS if you missed number one. You need way more than a 3.55 gear will give you. Buddy had a 94 long bed 5.0 truck on 35s. Choppy cam, long tubes, tuned to the top. Even with 4.10s he couldn't catch my BONE STOCK 4.3 Blazer with 32s (stock were 28s) on the street until 60. And in the mud, unless he was in low range he couldn't wind out second gear. Swapped in 4.56s and it was way better.

That truck ended up doa and its replacement was a stock engine 89 with 4.10s and 37s. That STOCK 5.0 pulled the 89 around better than the "hot 302". Chop is not a friend in a small cube truck....


Oh and for SD not liking big cams, 90% of high hp FI builds are ONLY SD

 

Never get in the way of somebody that makes their performance decisions on how something sounds.

As opposed to how it works. Cam grinders love it.

 

Anyone who says they cam their vehicle and don't take into account the chop is just a liar. It's ok to want the same part for different reasons.