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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

smog pump delete

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Old Jan 23, 2024 | 01:27 PM
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smog pump delete

so my smog pump on my 1986 ford f150 4.9 inline 6 stopped working and the hoses are just breaking apart causing a vacuum leak. I took the belt off and it has run better minus when it's cold. I'm honestly just looking for recommendations for how to delete the smog pump. People keep telling me I need to get a new exhaust manifold and intake manifold. Is that true and possibly a carb?
 
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Old Jan 23, 2024 | 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bcool03
so my smog pump on my 1986 ford f150 4.9 inline 6 stopped working and the hoses are just breaking apart causing a vacuum leak. I took the belt off and it has run better minus when it's cold. I'm honestly just looking for recommendations for how to delete the smog pump. People keep telling me I need to get a new exhaust manifold and intake manifold. Is that true and possibly a carb?
I'm not sure about the 300 configuration smog pumps, but on a 350 GM engine the smog pump I had provided back pressure to the exhaust manifold. When I deleted the pump I plugged the manifold threaded holes with brass plugs. It was a nice look too.

You'll have to make decisions on your ignition and carburetor as you probably have a feedback unit. But you're in luck as there are several here that have done those changes and I'm sure they'll chime in...
 
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Old Jan 23, 2024 | 04:46 PM
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Most people just take everything off, but leave some of the piping. I think piece #9A487 is a check valve. It lets the air pump push air into the exhaust manifold, but doesn't let exhaust come back out. If your check valve is working, you can just leave it on there and drive on. What I have seen happen though, without the air pump working exhaust gases and the condensate they create will eventually eat out the check valve, yours may be already gone. If it is, you can try to cap it somehow so it doesn't leak exhaust. Once you get it capped, you should be alright for several years, until one of the pipes gets a hole in it from corrosive gases from the exhaust. But this may take awhile, you might have many years before that happens. Not sure what you would need to take the pipes off and plug the holes.

 
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Old Jan 23, 2024 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlue2
I'm not sure about the 300 configuration smog pumps, but on a 350 GM engine the smog pump I had provided back pressure to the exhaust manifold. When I deleted the pump I plugged the manifold threaded holes with brass plugs. It was a nice look too.

You'll have to make decisions on your ignition and carburetor as you probably have a feedback unit. But you're in luck as there are several here that have done those changes and I'm sure they'll chime in...
Not sure about i6 but would love to have one in bullnose what a truck. My red truck 86 is 5.o 302 EFI no smog pump no cat but O2 sensor and EGR valve hooked up still running off computer and bought the bracket to eliminate the Factory smog pump bracket to spruce up the engine bay
 
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Old Jan 24, 2024 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard Mechling
Not sure about i6 but would love to have one in bullnose what a truck. My red truck 86 is 5.o 302 EFI no smog pump no cat but O2 sensor and EGR valve hooked up still running off computer and bought the bracket to eliminate the Factory smog pump bracket to spruce up the engine bay
so you hate good things? what the 300 do to you?
 
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Old Jan 25, 2024 | 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
so you hate good things? what the 300 do to you?
Speaking for myself I love good things I just never had a 300 in line 6 in one of these bullnose trucks and would love to have one. What the 300 would do for me would be a reliable economical Workhorse and they sure are pretty underneath the hood down in that engine bay and they have a nice sound to. And look how far back in line 6 goes with Fords. When I said I'm not sure about 300 I'm just not sure how to eliminate some of the factory emission systems hanging all over the engine but like one fellow stated in here there's somebody in here that knows how to get around some of that old Hardware.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2024 | 07:57 AM
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Wish I could say how but mine was removed before I got my truck so I dont know how the factory had it.
I also went with EFI EXH manifolds with the factory intake manifold and v1 carb.
The only thing I had to do then was remove and plug the openings for the EGR tube.

Now I dont think I have seen the setup the Dave posted on a 300 six where the air goes into the head.
If so I dont remember seeing one. Think most had a tube that went down to the cat and added the air there?

Either one if you have gases coming back up you will need to cap / plug it.
Some cut the tubes, crimp and fold over the ends to stop the gas from coming out.
In the head like Dave shows if you can get the fittings out of the head some use plugs.
Dave ----
 
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Old Apr 7, 2025 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Most people just take everything off, but leave some of the piping. I think piece #9A487 is a check valve. It lets the air pump push air into the exhaust manifold, but doesn't let exhaust come back out. If your check valve is working, you can just leave it on there and drive on. What I have seen happen though, without the air pump working exhaust gases and the condensate they create will eventually eat out the check valve, yours may be already gone. If it is, you can try to cap it somehow so it doesn't leak exhaust. Once you get it capped, you should be alright for several years, until one of the pipes gets a hole in it from corrosive gases from the exhaust. But this may take awhile, you might have many years before that happens. Not sure what you would need to take the pipes off and plug the holes.

Where did you get this diagram from
 
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Old Apr 8, 2025 | 08:13 AM
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https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/

On that site, click on the "Documentation" link, then electrical, then EVTM.

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-evtm.html
 
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