OT: battery kill switch
I told him to buy a battery shut off. He bought this at Harbor Freight. $4.99. We put it on tonight. But, it does not disconnect the power totally. We watched a guy put on one on YouTube. He said it doesn't shut it off completely. He had a multimeter showing power still going through. If you turn the green **** too far it comes off and the cable falls out of the shut off device.
What to do? Are we doing something wrong. My son could buy a better disconnect switch I guess.
By chance, any tips on finding the source of the drain?
Popular Reply
Sorry buddy, but I have got to respectfully disagree with you on this. When someone uses an OT in the subject line I know that it's not about trucks, maybe something related, maybe not. The bottom line for me is if there is an OT, I know there is probably something we don't normally talk much about. But many times there is a problem that one of our forum members is having and wants to run it by some of the smartest folks around.
I know I am just one guy and one voice here, but I like the OT threads as just like any of the threads, I always learn something from them. They too have value in my opinion. It's kind of like going to coffee with your buddies. How many topics come up and the problems eventually come out and there is always good advice how to tackle them.
But that all is just me.
Thank you!
Stu (not truckdog but one of the other Stus)
If you look closely Abe, it has an 'N' on the battery lug side. Did you son align the switch to point North? It's in the instruction that comes with it.

Tom
Watch some of South Main Auto's YouTube videos where he chases vampire loads. You have to wait 10 - 15 minutes after turning the key off, then monitor battery draw while pulling fuses.
The normal causes of an electrical draw is a light that isn't shutting off. As a quick down and dirty, open the glove box and feel the light bulb. Is it warm? do the same for the trunk deck, under hood, etc. If a bulb is warm then it hasn't been shutting off. Same goes for dome lights.
If that doesn't locate it then I'd typically disconnect one battery cable and hook a test light in series. If you have a draw the light will light up (some test lights will light up dimly with the 50ma draw). If its a light causing the draw the test light will be pretty bright. Now, you can start pulling fuses until the light goes out. Once it goes out you've found your circuit thats causing the draw. Make sure you pull the fuse for the dome lights and/or make sure you close the doors for evert test.
good luck
Bobby
Tom, no instructions came with it .
Ross, it makes sense that it's not a switch, it's an easy disconnect. Thanks.
Bobby and Ross, thanks for the tips on chasing the drain . I'll pass these on to Zach.
Additionally, I would caution against settling on regular use of a battery disconnect on computer equipped vehicle as the computer may have a hard time retaining self learned tuning/performance parameters. But it doesn't stop there - constant power to the to the computer(s) from the battery may also play a role in retaining any extended self vehicle drive cycle tests such as evap, emissions and so on that may be required to be fully executed and retained to pass any state inspections or roadworthiness requirements.
I have used many of these on farm equipment. And transit buses and vans.
Cole Hersee 2484-16 Master Disconnect Switch
Saves batteries, prevents fires if a cable shorts out during the night (you would be surprised how often it happens. I have experienced it first hand}Bmoron4 raises a valid point about computers. Something you should consider. Depending on the drain a trickle charger could solve the problem. But if it is a big drain it would be best to track it down.
B
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Edit:
My apologies to EffieTrucker and Ross. I must of been typing mine while I didn't see their suggestions...
Both he and his mechanic checked the blue tooth module. I don't think he has added a remote starter.
I will update you when he figures it out. The car is a 2007 model so he could unload it but he just bought four new tires.
Sorry buddy, but I have got to respectfully disagree with you on this. When someone uses an OT in the subject line I know that it's not about trucks, maybe something related, maybe not. The bottom line for me is if there is an OT, I know there is probably something we don't normally talk much about. But many times there is a problem that one of our forum members is having and wants to run it by some of the smartest folks around.
I know I am just one guy and one voice here, but I like the OT threads as just like any of the threads, I always learn something from them. They too have value in my opinion. It's kind of like going to coffee with your buddies. How many topics come up and the problems eventually come out and there is always good advice how to tackle them.
But that all is just me.
Thank you!
Stu (not truckdog but one of the other Stus)














