When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am learning to work with metal, but still have a long way to go. I messed up in cutting for the new corner post for the bed
What is the best method to fill this gap? It is almost 1/2" at its widest point. I have some of the old panel pieces that I cut off that I can use to patch (MIG Weld)
should I:
1. Tack a backing plate in place from behind and cut a filler piece for the gap?
2. Cut a 1" to 1 1/2" filler piece and tack onto the corner post or Side body panel, then cut one or the other to fit?
3. Bridge the gap with welding?
4. Something else?
I had to wait a few years to work on this truck for unavoidable reasons, now I am getting back into the saddle!
That's a tough one. Welding a thin strip will be more difficult that even making a filler piece from scratch. You'd be welding twice along the same line. If you can get another section that goes between the corner piece and your bedside, that would be ideal.
But sometimes, you gotta be realistic with your desired outcome. A lot of people would just lap a filler piece behind, and use filler. Maybe even less filler than doing a butt weld twice along the same line with the resulting distortion.
Not knowing how wide the part you cutout is but if you could lay it over both the rear corner part and the front bed part and hold that part tight to both, then take a thin cutoff wheel and cut thru both parts.
What you should have left is a wide gap, to keep heat far from each weld line, and a patch panel that should have the same line contour for each side that you can now butt weld in place.
Think that is how I would go about this repair.
Dave ----
An overlapped seam will show through the paint due to the different thickness of steel (two layers) expanding and contracting, and the filler/primer expanding differently. Overlaps also have to be 100% sealed from the back side or they'll hold moisture and rust out.
Best option is to make a 3-4" wide filler strip, clamp it in place over the gap, scribe cut lines exactly against the patch, then trim it dead on the scribe line for zero gap. If you make a narrower patch the heat from welding will be concentrated in a smaller area. It will warp when you weld it, do a series of tacks to get the patch aligned flush, then hammer and dolly the welds to reverse the weld shrinkage that causes warping. I just posted details on that process in my build thread if you're not familiar with that process.
You can use a backing plate of copper (a copper pipe smashed flat with a hammer works) to absorb some of the heat from welding. That will cut down on the possible warpage. Good luck with your project.
