body panels
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Senior User
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body panels
dont know if this is in the right place.
we have a bed that we want to put on our truck.the bed has damage but we have a new side panel for it.
the question is.
could we use rivet to attach it to the bed? we dont have spot welder and it would cost a arm and a leg to get the body shop to do it.
we have a bed that we want to put on our truck.the bed has damage but we have a new side panel for it.
the question is.
could we use rivet to attach it to the bed? we dont have spot welder and it would cost a arm and a leg to get the body shop to do it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 5
From: Parkesburg PA
I wouldn't rivet it. You may be able to use panel adhesive though. Get it at a body shop supply house, you use a caulk gun to put it on. Also, harbor freight has a reasonably priced spot welder.
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From: Virginia
I don't see why you could not pop rivet it. That's how they are putting the new aluminum trucks together, with rivets.
I used to use them all the time before I got a welder. They held good, but they were always too tall and required too much filler to hide them. I started countersinking the hole that helped some.
I used to use them all the time before I got a welder. They held good, but they were always too tall and required too much filler to hide them. I started countersinking the hole that helped some.
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yea we looked at that spot welder.we dont think it will fit all in the places to spot weld it.
and we can put the time in to hide the rivts.
the bed thats on there now is all beat to hell and rusted out.
and we can put the time in to hide the rivts.
the bed thats on there now is all beat to hell and rusted out.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,408
Likes: 5
From: Parkesburg PA
I don't see why you could not pop rivet it. That's how they are putting the new aluminum trucks together, with rivets.
I used to use them all the time before I got a welder. They held good, but they were always too tall and required too much filler to hide them. I started countersinking the hole that helped some.
I used to use them all the time before I got a welder. They held good, but they were always too tall and required too much filler to hide them. I started countersinking the hole that helped some.
Look up cherry max rivets, or look for structural blind rivets. There's lots of info out there in the home built aircraft sites.
I'm a aircraft mechanic BTW, so I know a thing or two about rivets. One you price out cherry max rivets you'll rethink the panel adhesive.
You can use rivets to hold it while the panel adhesive dries however, because they won't be the main thing holding it on.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
You could use Cleco's to hold the panel on temporarily, or you could just use selftapping screws and take them out when the epoxy panel adhesive hardens.
Then you don't have to try and hide them.
If you have air, a punch and flange tool will help level the panels and punch holes for screws.
Then you don't have to try and hide them.
If you have air, a punch and flange tool will help level the panels and punch holes for screws.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: north battleford
structural adhesive holding my box panels on for 3 years now.fusor seemed to be the brand to use when i researched it. most tubes need a special gun to apply(double barrel).i used the motorcraft stuff (TA.1.B) supposedly made by fusor. not cheap stuff.depending on your timeline it seemed to take a while to cure.the one drawback with this way vs welding is that the panels overlap a bit meaning more body work. use fiberglass reinforced filler
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Parkesburg PA
I usually use a backing strip. Does the same thing, just without warping. You do have to attach it to both sides and it could create a rust area if not sealed... That's a problem with welding, not so much with panel adhesive.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
There are many varieties of panel bonding adhesive.
I've used 3M, and I have the correct plural component gun.
On properly prepared metal it should last forever, unless there's a fire.
f100, I haven't seen warping using my pneumatic flange tool.
Is there an issue other than tight radii?
I've used 3M, and I have the correct plural component gun.
On properly prepared metal it should last forever, unless there's a fire.
f100, I haven't seen warping using my pneumatic flange tool.
Is there an issue other than tight radii?