When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I wouldn't rivet it. You may be able to use panel adhesive though. Get it at a body shop supply house, you use a caulk gun to put it on. Also, harbor freight has a reasonably priced spot welder.
I don't see why you could not pop rivet it. That's how they are putting the new aluminum trucks together, with rivets.
I used to use them all the time before I got a welder. They held good, but they were always too tall and required too much filler to hide them. I started countersinking the hole that helped some.
I don't see why you could not pop rivet it. That's how they are putting the new aluminum trucks together, with rivets.
I used to use them all the time before I got a welder. They held good, but they were always too tall and required too much filler to hide them. I started countersinking the hole that helped some.
Pop rivets are not even remotely close to the structural rivets used on aluminum bodies. The main problem is that the mandrel isn't locked in place and can come out. Then you have a tiny, hollow soft rivet holding things together.
Look up cherry max rivets, or look for structural blind rivets. There's lots of info out there in the home built aircraft sites.
I'm a aircraft mechanic BTW, so I know a thing or two about rivets. One you price out cherry max rivets you'll rethink the panel adhesive.
You can use rivets to hold it while the panel adhesive dries however, because they won't be the main thing holding it on.
You could use Cleco's to hold the panel on temporarily, or you could just use selftapping screws and take them out when the epoxy panel adhesive hardens.
Then you don't have to try and hide them.
If you have air, a punch and flange tool will help level the panels and punch holes for screws.
structural adhesive holding my box panels on for 3 years now.fusor seemed to be the brand to use when i researched it. most tubes need a special gun to apply(double barrel).i used the motorcraft stuff (TA.1.B) supposedly made by fusor. not cheap stuff.depending on your timeline it seemed to take a while to cure.the one drawback with this way vs welding is that the panels overlap a bit meaning more body work. use fiberglass reinforced filler
These may help you not have to use so much bondo when lapping the panels.
till you use them and warp the crap out of your panels...
I usually use a backing strip. Does the same thing, just without warping. You do have to attach it to both sides and it could create a rust area if not sealed... That's a problem with welding, not so much with panel adhesive.