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When I started this project I considered putting the cummins in the '53 F500 and swapping the Y-block into the '36. That might have made more sense but the '53 was already running with its setup. I didn't want to be working on both trucks at the same time and my tape measure said it would fit in the '36. So here's a few pics of the tight clearances. The engine doesn't seem to move around much, it just sits there and rattles. Close clearance between manifold and firewall. Close clearance between down-pipe shroud and frame. Altenator bracket is close to the grill. Upper water outlet is from a non-inter-cooled engine. Hoses follow the frame to the bed of the truck. Air cleaner is small to clear the altenator. The starter fits in the frame on the driver side.
The upper water outlet from an '89/90 non-intercooled dodge exits straight to the right which helped me get my coolant hoses heading in the right direction. The formed hose snakes around the alternator and is a stock '93 hose. I had trouble getting a 6" air cleaner between the turbo and the alternator so the 3" one is there temporarily.
The grill ended up being moved forward one inch although I think with some minor modification to the grill I could get that inch back. I like the looks of it better without the hood so no need to make a longer hood. The radiator support rods, which hold the grill in place, are made from the original mechanical brake rods with a bolt and nut welded to the ends.
The coolant hoses run down the right frame rail to the radiator in the bed. The bed had rotted out at that end and the PO patched it, so I only cut through patch metal to place the radiator there. On a 90 degree day trip to town with the fans on the engine ran 175 degrees. When I left town I forgot to turn the fans on and noticed the temperature had crept up to 185 degrees. When I turned the fans on the temperature dropped back to 175 again. Fuel filler tube located at the inspection cover. Fuel tank located.
I used a universal type fuel tank to fit between the BB frame. I don't think a pickup truck fuel tank would fit because the filler neck would come out at the rear of the leaf springs. The PO had tack welded a piece of porcelain sign over the access hole in the bed. I'm guessing this access hole was for servicing the fuel level sending unit and fuel pickup but I haven't found any info on this yet.
The tool box is a 1943 WW2 Navy 20mm anti-aircraft ammo box. Antique store find.
Rear light covers came off easily with a little oil and some gentle tapping. 1156 amber bulb gives a good color and is plenty bright.
I polished the reflector shields, put new springs in the bulb sockets and ran new wire. The arrow outline metal inside the units give the signal a sharp image regardless of the condition of the metal on the outside of the units. With these signals turned on there is no doubt which way you are going.
The original shifter has been converted to automatic. The parking brake lever is hooked up to the rear disc emergency brakes which have been completely rebuilt. The windshield regulator is a new Dennis Carpenter unit with the original ****. The cowl vent was froze up, got it unstuck and now it works as it should. The glove box door stays shut with the help of a magnet but I don't have a correct glove box yet. The throttle and choke controls have been replaced with light switches. On the left is a 4 position pull switch wired as follows: off, parking/fog lights, low beams/parking lights, and all the way out is high beams/parking lights. The other light switch is for the interior light. The column drop is Briggs and Stratton keyed and the switch controls the fuel cut-off solenoid. The gages are a GPS speedometer, engine temperature, and a boost gage. The 17" banjo steering wheel is quick disconnect to allow a change to a more ergonomic 14" wheel. Turn signal unit is a Signal-Stat 700.
New tailgate chain hardware. YOM plate. Vintage glass lens reverse light, no markings. Tail light is a taurus unit used on 9N and early 8N tractors, converted to use 1157 bulbs.
Modified the '36 oil bath air cleaner to fit a K&N RU-2800 in there. It sits on a heavy duty 4" to 5" 90 elbow. The mount is reshaped to hold the air cleaner. The inner shell will be opened up along with the gap at the top to allow more air flow. The top hole can then be covered in rainy weather.
'36 truck oil bath filter modified to accept a 8" K&N cone type filter.
Continuing to love this. I have been distracted creating a sort of "period '40s-50s' auto machine shop". I bought an old Clausing metal lathe last week and added to my valve work tools. But best tool is the woodstove I installed after insulating. I have rebuilt maybe 20 old trucks in that shop with no heat. Glad to see all the work you are doing. Your lighting is over the top. Loving the s#!+ outa the arrow directionals. What would I search on ebay for those things?
Vintage hooded signal lights worked for me. They can be pricey. The seller had a decent price on these already or best offer, so I got them a little cheaper. The outsides looked rough but the insides were in good shape, good glass too.
I use patience when taking old rusty stuff apart. I freed up an old Wheeler Wilson sewing machine using the advice of an enthusiast. He recommended sewing machine oil over penetrating oil for its ability to creep in and lubricate. Used a precision screwdriver set to fit the screw heads well. Then tap the screw head lightly to jar the rust. Attempt to turn the screw one way then the other. If it don't budge, leave it alone. Give it another drop of oil then come back later or even the next day and repeat. This method works well for me and isn't as slow as it sounds. If I can get it apart without messing up the fasteners, I can reuse them and keep that old look.
Continuing to love this. I have been distracted creating a sort of "period '40s-50s' auto machine shop". I bought an old Clausing metal lathe last week and added to my valve work tools. But best tool is the woodstove I installed after insulating. I have rebuilt maybe 20 old trucks in that shop with no heat. Glad to see all the work you are doing. Your lighting is over the top. Loving the s#!+ outa the arrow directionals. What would I search on ebay for those things?
Loving the s#!+ outa the arrow directionals. What would I search on ebay for those things?
I searched 'arrow turn signals' on ebay for quite awhile to find the ones I wanted in the condition I was willing to accept. And yeah, the people that have them seem to think they're gold.
"Arrow" is also a brand name for those lights. Mine are "Signal Stat" but the prices aren't any better. The driver side of mine has metal rusted away around the arrow, that may be why I got them cheaper. But the inside metal was in good shape and still gives it a sharp arrow image when it lights up. $45 for the pair including shipping and taxes.
1/2 inch was trimmed from the turbo end of the boot to give the radiator hose some room.
Another 1/2 inch was trimmed at an angle from the air cleaner end of the boot to lean the filter back a little and give it room at the top. 1 inch was trimmed from the inner air cleaner shell to allow air flow to the filter.
The shell bracket attaches to the stud on the exhaust manifold.
Cut 4 slots in the upper inner shell to allow more air flow. Added a 90 on top and installed hardware cloth.
I calculate 14.5 sq. in. of opening coming into the air cleaner compared to 12.5 sq. in. at the 4 inch turbo inlet.
Sunny day in Feb. 2024
Pulled the truck outside to get a picture with the air cleaner set up and the new turn signals.
