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1FTNE14W89DA19977 09 ford e150 4.6l. unable to get fuelsys2 to go in closed loop. syst1 is cl. No codes at all. No pending. several drive cycles performed. all emission monitors are ready except converter, o2 heater & o2 sensor. Battery, o2's, mass air, fuel pressures are all within normal parameters. fuel trims are within normal values, yet the drive cycles will not set for those 3 areas. Hopefully someone can help guide me to a solution. Thank you in advance
Your processor may have flown the coop
What scan tool are you using to determine that and read the PIDS?
Have the dealer check it with WDS and replace or reflash the processor
Are you fighting emissions non compliance?
Your processor may have flown the coop
What scan tool are you using to determine that and read the PIDS?
Have the dealer check it with WDS and replace or reflash the processor
Are you fighting emissions non compliance?
I'M USING AN AUTEL SCANNER MAXISYS ELITE. I'M UNABLE TO COMPLETE EMISSION DRIVE CYCLES FOR INSPECTION. HAVE ATTEMPTED SEVERAL DRIVE CYCLES BUT THOSE MONITORS WILL NOT SET.
Use your scan tool to read the O2 signals to see if they are working. Google search O2 sensors to see typical signals. Some will be a varying to voltage others will stay relatively constant.
If all sensors and heaters are working properly, I would confirm the system is not going into closed loop. Find all PIDs associated with open/closed loop operation. I don't know all involved, but maybe a signal is missing and keeping it open loop. The pro mechanics here may be of more assistance. But I would hunt down every open/closed condition and verify the PCM is getting those signals.
I’ll say it once more for the hundredth time, if things don't make since on electrical, then the only thing left is bad wiring, corroded wires, and the like.
Little side story to make this point, I had a job to track down a problem with the Speedo not reading properly on a 03 Euro Van. Long story short, after going nuts with replacement parts including a clock spring, I told the customer id try one more thing at no cost, I pulled the wiring harness apart, NOTHING FIXED. Ok so after looking DEEP though some VW forums I found a post that described a similar thing, in the end it was the harness block. I pulled on each wire then pushed them back in, just a tug and push on the wire on the back side of the fuse relay block under the driver side. PROBLEM FIXED. Turns out that like 10 years ago there was a heater core failure and there was a TINY bit of corrosion on the terminals and moving it found the issue. Depinned the line, cleaned the green crap off it, problem fixed. Took 3 days of WTF to figure it out.
Point is, electrical gremlins can sometimes make NO FREAKING SENSE for no reason and those usually mean a bad wire or connection somewhere giving a less than desirable voltage shift.
Yeah, ford uses caps with a 10 year life span, have been replacing them myself in my money pit, no longer a ford fan.
for what it is, a old ford, gold to a DIY home mechanic like most of us. 380K on my escape with very little work on average, engine and trans swap half way there but never left me stranded.
VAG makes the best longest lasting electronics on earth.
for what it is, a old ford, gold to a DIY home mechanic like most of us. 380K on my escape with very little work on average, engine and trans swap half way there but never left me stranded.
VAG makes the best longest lasting electronics on earth.
If I had primer cord and a field in the country I'd show you the real repair for an 89 fuel injected 4.9, I am no longer a ford fan, junk, more money invested in just one year to fix it than I put in my 1973 E100 in 10 years.
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