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Axle spindle lock washers distorting during torquing sequence
I am installing aftermarket locking nuts on my Dana 70 axle spindles and for some reason the lock washers aren't doing their job.
As soon as I begin tightening the outer locknut, I noticed my inner adjusting nut started turning because the lock washer in between started distorting.
These are Dorman 618-049 lock washers. I thought they were supposed to be good. Are they wrong for my application? Did Dorman make these out of cheap *** mild steel or something? Why aren't they able to stand up to the slightest pressure, and what replacements should I be using for my Dana Spicer 33732 spindle nuts?
I believe you are putting the lock ring on backwards. Shouldn’t the tabs be facing outwards so you bend one over into the grove on the outer nut? How tight are you trying to go with the outer nut? Also Dana part # 33733 is the lock ring if you prefer Dana.
I believe you are putting the lock ring on backwards. Shouldn’t the tabs be facing outwards so you bend one over into the grove on the outer nut? How tight are you trying to go with the outer nut? Also Dana part # 33733 is the lock ring if you prefer Dana.
Unfortunately I can't find any instructions or pictures of this specific nut/washer set installed, so I am left guessing. I thought the tabs were supposed to face inward since the inner nut is what needs to be locked in relation to the spindle slot first, and then the outer locking nut was supposed to be torqued very tight, locking it all together... however I couldn't have passed 15 ft lbs or so before the washer started distorting. Seemed very weak and cheap and unexpected. After thinking about it for a bit, I realized I forgot to put grease on the face of the washer so it has less friction against the lock nut while torquing, but I didn't think that's all it took for it to fail like this.
Also, for all I know, there may be another thrust washer or something that's supposed to stack in there which I don't have, but I have no idea since there are no exploded-view diagrams or instructions anywhere...
Ok I was able to find some instructions finally. It looks like you were right about washer orientation. Here it is for anyone else who may need it in the future:
Screw the inner spanner nut onto the end of the spindle. Torque the inner nut to 50 ft.lbs while rotating the hub. Then back it off 1 /8 of a turn. Install the star shaped lock washer with the outer tabs pointing outward. Align the tab on the inside of the washer with the slot in the spindle. Put a coat of grease on the back of the outer spanner nut. Screw the outer spanner nut on the spindle and tighten to 70 ft-lbs. Then bend at least one of the tabs over the front of the outer nut into one of the six points on the nut. The hub should spin freely with no pre-load on the bearings, but not have more than .001” of end play.
I'll have to buy another set of washers and try again. Looks like grease is required on the outer nut surface facing the washer. I'm surprised the washer can withstand 70 ft lbs of torque against it without distorting, but that's what the instructions say so I guess it should work. I will find out soon enough.
Ebay sells the lock nuts that have a pin instead of the crappy tin bend over retainer that doesn't work.
Ebay is where I bought these, but I didn't know they were that much worse than the pin-style lock nuts...
I've heard of people saying that those pins can still break off...
When you say these don't work, do you mean there's a good chance the nut will back off despite the tab being bent into the slot?
I followed procedures, and although the washer still distorted slightly(as shown in photo), I was able to achieve the recommended 70 ft. lbs. of torque on the outer nut, and the inner tab is still protruding into the spindle slot.
The inner nut tightened maybe 10 degrees or so during the torquing sequence due to the washer distortion, but the drum is still easy to turn without any noticeable play...
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