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I have a 1995 F-150 with the 4.9L and E4OD, I had been getting a code while running a KOER test (but no check engine light while driving) for low TPS voltage. The truck ran fine and had good throttle response and stuff, but I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. Now I've noticed that occasionally when I go from park to either drive or reverse, it will immediately try to idle up to around 1100 RPM for 5-10 seconds like it does initially on cold starts and then come back down. I can't seem to find a pattern of when it does this, it's completely random. Not sure if I should just throw the old TPS back on and call it fine seeing that it still worked and functioned perfectly before I took it off, it was just very black inside.
I have a 1995 F-150 with the 4.9L and E4OD, I had been getting a code while running a KOER test (but no check engine light while driving) for low TPS voltage. The truck ran fine and had good throttle response and stuff, but I went ahead and replaced it with a new one. Now I've noticed that occasionally when I go from park to either drive or reverse, it will immediately try to idle up to around 1100 RPM for 5-10 seconds like it does initially on cold starts and then come back down. I can't seem to find a pattern of when it does this, it's completely random. Not sure if I should just throw the old TPS back on and call it fine seeing that it still worked and functioned perfectly before I took it off, it was just very black inside.
The backprobe procedure (I use a ground flat paperclip with my DVOM)
The orange wire should be reference voltage and have 5 volts
The green wire (signal return) is the one that changes with throttle position and should vary between .8 and 4.5volts
You watch that voltage sweep on the DVOM as you move the throttle
You could also do it the easy way (Fords way) with a NGS and just read the TP PID
The backprobe procedure (I use a ground flat paperclip with my DVOM)
The orange wire should be reference voltage and have 5 volts
The green wire (signal return) is the one that changes with throttle position and should vary between .8 and 4.5volts
You watch that voltage sweep on the DVOM as you move the throttle
You could also do it the easy way (Fords way) with a NGS and just read the TP PID
You didn't mention if the new part was Motorcraft or just aftermarket. I STRONGLY recommend replacing it with factory. I've seen many new aftermarket position sensors WAY out of spec right out of the box. This ends up creating erratic idle, shift problems (e4OD), and crappy throttle response on something that you thought was in-and-done.
You didn't mention if the new part was Motorcraft or just aftermarket. I STRONGLY recommend replacing it with factory. I've seen many new aftermarket position sensors WAY out of spec right out of the box. This ends up creating erratic idle, shift problems (e4OD), and crappy throttle response on something that you thought was in-and-done.
as long as the sensor has the correct operation of range (as in, it correlates % to a proportional change in the reading consistently) the value when at idle and no foot on the pedal has a decently wide range it can be. but there is a spec.
Well I'm a complete idiot, I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve and not the TPS. Don't know why I had those confused but not sure if that changes things at all about what I'm experiencing.
Well, you should then just replace the TP sensor and your code and symptom will go away?
Good luck in school
You are smart enough to try and figure out your truck which is smarter than us all
Means you are no idiot
Well, you should then just replace the TP sensor and your code and symptom will go away?
Good luck in school
You are smart enough to try and figure out your truck which is smarter than us all
Means you are no idiot
Make sure they gave you the correct one, first by looking at old one, and seeing where connector is clocked, it matters, one for v8 would hunt for idle, that I6 gulps more air, than a small block IAC and cant keep up.
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