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Ford Ranger F100 1978 302 c6. When starting up I have to keep foot on gas otherwise truck will not stay on I have to keep accelerated until slightly warm then it'll stay on on its own. When warm and I'm taking off I tried to go fast but it feels like it's going to turn off Its stalls of some sort and once it gets past that then I'm able to drive off. Can't figure it out thanksin advance
Every carb out of the box needs adjusting / tuning.
In your case it dose sound like the choke needs to be adjusted.
There should be a black cap on the side of the carb.
It should be marked "<rich lean>"
If the cap is not marked on the top edge, cap & carb body, mark both so you know where it starts at before adjusting.
Just loosen the 3 screws and turn it to rich just a little and tighten the screws back down.
You need to adjust it a little at a time till it works right.
There is also a fast idle speed that may need adjusting.
This is different than the idle speed
Now once up to temp and the idle speed set you need to adjust the idle mixing screws.
You will need a tach (to set idle speed and mix)) or a vacuum gauge (mix)
The screws are on the side of the carb and you adjust each one a little at a time in or out to get the fastest idle speed or the highest vacuum reading.
You may need to readjust the idle speed when done.
I like my manual chokes on my carburetors, be they trucks, tractors, motorcycles, tiller, snow blower, generators, or my McCulloch. All my cars are now some type of electronic fuel injection, but except for my early pre '89 police cars, my cars that had carburetors got converted to manual chokes pretty soon after my acquiring them.
First thanks for getting back to let us know what the fix was but ...
How was that?
What was the sign that pointed to the coil?
Was it the wires hooked to it that had a bad connection and new fixed that?
What else was done when you did the coil?
Dave ----
First thanks for getting back to let us know what the fix was but ...
How was that?
What was the sign that pointed to the coil?
Was it the wires hooked to it that had a bad connection and new fixed that?
What else was done when you did the coil?
Dave ----
well it was not my ignition coil it was my electric choke. It was pulling too much power and was closing fully . Now after i stopped the power works fine wònt stall after a stop this was something unexpected I had bought a distributor for it I'm glad I got a second set of eyes to look at it
Every carb out of the box needs adjusting / tuning.
In your case it dose sound like the choke needs to be adjusted.
There should be a black cap on the side of the carb.
It should be marked "<rich lean>"
If the cap is not marked on the top edge, cap & carb body, mark both so you know where it starts at before adjusting.
Just loosen the 3 screws and turn it to rich just a little and tighten the screws back down.
You need to adjust it a little at a time till it works right.
There is also a fast idle speed that may need adjusting.
This is different than the idle speed
Now once up to temp and the idle speed set you need to adjust the idle mixing screws.
You will need a tach (to set idle speed and mix)) or a vacuum gauge (mix)
The screws are on the side of the carb and you adjust each one a little at a time in or out to get the fastest idle speed or the highest vacuum reading.
You may need to readjust the idle speed when done.
Give that a try
Dave ----
A neat little trick is to use a credit/debit card to set the correct spacing. When the screws are loose, open the choke and place the card into the carb. Turn the choke to the rich direction until the valve just barely touches the card. Tighten the screws and remove the card. Your choke is set. Unless Holley is different, this should work on pretty much any carb that you can fit a card into.
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