With the OP's current 2013 F150 and 5.0 getting around 16 mpg, what changes are needed to make a 1978 with a coyote get 20 mpg?

Properly built and tuned I'd expect a 351 cube motor in a 78 F150 to get around 14 mpg highway. I might have missed what the OP is currently getting.

 

Absolutely not all about mileage. It’s about reliability, day in day out in any condition or traffic, lasting 200,000+ miles all the while being able to smoke most anything that pulls along side you. I had a Fitech fuel injected 460 and no comparison when you add up the package. So glad I made the swap and absolutely 0 regrets. Here is a picture of the 460, which was a nice engine, I swapped for the coyote but I’d take the swap any day.

 

That's what I get for skimping through the conversation. Sorry that was my bad. That is very understandable in terms of reliability and longevity going with a newer transplant. As much as I'd hate to except I can believe a 5.0 Coyote would smoke anything that challenges it. With them in the Mustang knowing they'll eat other sports cars for breakfast. Out of curiosity what are you guys running for transmissions? Manual? Auto? You've seem to have caught my attention lol. I've been seeing this swap has become more popular.

 

I’m using the 6r80 6 speed automatic but some ,depending on setup, are using 10r80 10 speed or a manual setup. You just have to match pcm for trans you plan to use. With 2.73 gears and 28” tires I can cruise 70 all day at about 1900 rpm’s with 0 issue. Benefit with the 6 speed is you still have a super low first so you can run a low gear in the back with no issue. I went a different route in that I’m using a factory pcm and factory harness with anti theft deleted to control everything. It is shifted using a f150 platinum console with select shift, so I can manually shift electronically from the shifter OR run full automatic. My factory PCM also controls fans just like stock using a F150 radiator and dual fan setup.

 

I'd say swap in the Coyote. You won't recoup the mileage for what you'll spend but if done right, you'll have an awful lot of personal satisfaction. I always said do it because you can and no other reason. I sold mine for a tidy profit which I never expected would happen. Then the guy that bought it from me sold it for $15K more. The countless compliments and thumbs up as well as the "What the hell is in that?" when it shifts at 7000 RPM with 3 inch exhaust is priceless. It's spendy, but oh so fun! I went GEN II Mustang with 6R80 and Ford Control pack which consists of connecting 5 wires and firing the engine. Crazy simple. Only 1 regret...........I sold it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...te-swap-7.html

 

So let’s say I get a complete used package. Engine, 6r80 trans, computer and all the wiring.
What other things do I need to consider to get it in and running? Motor mounts, new exhaust. I’m guessing a bunch of little things.
Unfortunately for me I get the basic concept but have little mechanical skills other than basic maintenance.

Also I can I figure out what rearend and gear ratio I might have? Decode the vin?

 

Damn looked really sweet!

 

Thanks for the compliment. Have a look at mine and 73 FOMOCO's build threads. Every question you have will be answered in detail. For your gear ratio, jack it up and put stands under it. Put a chalk mark on the rear tire and one on the driveshaft. Turn the tire and count how many times the driveshaft turns for one rotation of the tire. Eg. if the driveshaft turns three times with one tire rotation you have 3.00:1 gears. You may be in over your head as far as skill but you'll learn as you go. Have no fear!


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...te-swap-7.html

 

Great stuff thank you!! How’d you like the dakota speedo?
Will I have to disassemble the frontend for engine install? Thankfully I have a brother who worked for a collision shop for many of years if need be!

 

As stated above by Jetfixer - 6. Read through the build threads. Here is my build thread.....https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...th-photos.html

Here is a quick rundown of the key stuff. Read the threads for options and details and do all of you homework and know what you need and how much is involved before jumping in.

1. Engine and Engine Harness with starter and alternator - Gen1 F150 will be the cheapest. $2000-6000 depending on mileage.
2. ECM and BJB Harness - Either OEMl that can be modified, Ford Performance Control Pack, Power by Hour Control Pack and Harness - Has to match engine/trans combo. $2000
   1. Custom MAF air intake or OEM - $250
   2. Custom Tuning - $600
3. Fuel System Upgrades to EFI - Tank/Pump/Regulator and Return Lines $500-1500
4. Power Steering Setup of Choice - KRC, Forte, Power by the Hour, Vintage Air $1000-3000
5. Radiator and Electric Fans and various hose fittings - OEM or Aftermarket $300-1000
6. Transmission. If 6r80 cooler line adapters to oil cooler on radiator. $500-2500
7. Engine Mount and Trans cross mount - Prefabricated (FFG) or Fabricate $300-800
8. Driveshaft and Yokes - Shorten and update yokes as necessary. $300-800
9. Dakota Digital Gauges with BIM module to read ECM - $800-1200
10. Shifter or Shifter Linkages for transmission. (FFG stock kit or Lokar Electronic). Wired if you want select shift.- $200 - 1000
11. Steering shaft modifications if needed $300 - 500

Labor to make it all happen $$$$? Guessing at least 80 - 120 solid hours at $125 hours if you have done your homework, Initially I was assuming you would be doing the labor. I did all of the labor on mine.

 

Thank you so much for laying it all out in detail + thread!
My brother can do a good majority of this so I am probably gonna have to convince him its a great project for brothers to work on together!

 

It's not necessary to remove the front end to do the swap only, otherwise take it all off, wire wheel the frame and all the suspension pieces and re-coat. The swap by itself is spendy but if your like me when you take something apart I completely refurbish everything I touch which is a very slippery slope and incredibly time consuming. The only thing I didn't replace on my truck was the bed isolator mounts and the grill. The rest of the truck was new down to the blinker stalk on the column. $$$$$$

The Dakota Digital gauges were flawless, once Dakota sent me the Coyote specific Bim module, everything displayed with one simple connection. Spendy? Hell yes but money well spent.

I've recommended the Ford control pack ever since I started the swap. With the engine resting in the truck, fuel rail line connected with the fuel pump in a 5 gallon bucket of gas, connecting 5 wires, the engine fired and ran flawlessly. Incredibly simple. Also no extra investment needed to have it tuned. It's a scorcher outa the box.

If your looking to pinch every penny then 73FOMOCO is dead on with a GEN I F150 engine. The immediate draw back to that however is all of them have mega miles on them and will most certainly be well on their way to being worn out when you install it. If your looking to keep the truck and use it for many years to come then get a Gen III and get a mustang engine, not an F150. 460 horsepower in your 2 wheel drive will be a handful. A fun handful. My Gen II mustang was 435HP from Ford and the control pack had a built in tune for another 15-20HP. Truck was very quick.

 

To Jetfixer-6 point it can snowball. I did much more than planned initially and although some of my pictures in my thread are the first rough in’s, I touched almost everything. I completely went through and refurbished dash, entire interior and basically rebuilt the chassis, changed both axles, added Hydroboost 4 wheel disc, rack and pinion steering, basically a new drivetrain. As Jetfixer pointed out about the wiring harness , I opted to go another route and used all of the factory harnesses, ECM, and pedal controls and weeded out circuits I didn’t need. Once finished it resulted in a very factory look appearance and operation of engine, transmission, fans, alternator and fuel system with factory fuse boxes. It cost me about $600 total and a lot of hours weeding and understanding what you need to make it work. The $2,000 control pack works flawless as well and takes much less time. Mine didn’t require tuning to run but I spent $600 more on tuning because I used a F150 ECM and body harness, fans, alternator and a GenIII Mustang GT intake manifold and GenIII GT intake setup for cold ram air. The tuning helps get every bit out of the setup and makes all the different pieces work together. The transmission improvements from the tuning is almost worth the $600. For your need the control pack is the way to go.

 

Really appreciate you guys and all the detail u put into it. And I appreciate u answer all the probably simple questions 😁

Another q. Obviously my existing column only has D, 2 & 1, how’s that work with with the swap and 6spd tranny?

 

You buy the shift rod and connect it and it works the same, however the indicator on the column does not line up. I added select shift which is like paddle shifters but instead uses a toggle switch if you want a gear lower than the drive gear. You will only ever use P R N D. You can see a close up of the linkage in my thread. I never installed the stop for the linkage like some have and yes I've shifted past drive into the next detent and it gears down just like a normal trans. Insane easy for this and cheap. I didn't use FFg shift lever, I simply flipped over my existing shift lever. Watch this video.