Howzit, got me a fuel leak in my 6.9 above the #8 injector. There is serious bubbling coming from the top of the plastic cap that is pooling below.
Here’s some history, I had a leak a couple weeks ago from the plastic caps #2 and #6 as well as a wet line between #5 and #7. So I bought a return line kit from Classic Diesel Designs replaced everything, o rings, caps, rubber lines, and clamps. Then found out #6 was cross threaded so I replaced that injector (just the one cause I’m broke). Now I have the issue of fuel bubbling out of the top of the #8 plastic fuel return line cap. Oh and the #2 cap is weeping fuel.
I tried fitting the old cap and same issue, different o rings and same issue, figure the lines were too long and pushing on the caps, still leaking. The only other thing I think could be the issue is the hard line needs to be replaced.
I need help, I’m new to diesels and this is about to be my only vehicle and I can’t drive it in this condition. Thanks for any information and i can provide any information necessary.

This is its condition currently post wipe down

The left over moisture is from bleeding air out of the lines

 

Noticed that there are several burned & cracked (age ?) Wires showing in the first picture --

 

yeah the last owner jury rigged bullet style glow plugs for a push button system a couple years back. So it’s a lovely mix of old and new wires that’s a later project. But it works

 

Bullet style GP`s are for the 7.3. I see you have the old style GP Relay, so you should have the Spade type GP`s.
Does not look like you have Line Clamps on the Hard lines. They are to keep the fuel lines from vibrating and eventually
cracking.
When replacing the Return Caps or R&R ing an Injector, best to remove the Clamps so they do not get bent , the they get
out of alignment with the Injector threads. This can cause the cross threading.

When replacing the Injector "O" Rings and Caps, best to get all the rubber rings on the Injectors. Place the greased up ring on the top
groove, the roll the 2nd ring over the first one. Makes it easier to get them on.
Put the caps and hoses together, have rings and caps greased up, then install them as an assembly. they just sort of click down.

You don`t always need to purchase a new return line kit if you have a leaky one.
Mc Master-Carr has the rings in bags of 50 for around $10,Viton size 111....or they were before good ole Joe took command of the ship.

Nothing wrong with a manual momentary switch for the GP`s. Mine is that way on the 86. Not much jerry rigging to it.
Remove the purple wire off the GP Relay. connect a new wire to it, and run it to your switch. The other side of the switch, connect it to a
positive + source that is hot with key on.
Your truck like mine had/has a water separator next to the Brake Booster. Most have been disconnected or removed because known to
suck air into the fuel system. Mine was there but disconnected and the 2 Fuel lines connected together.
There is square rubber cover that goes over the electrical connection. 4 wires as I remember, the red one is the positive with key on.
Tied into it and also placed an inline fuse .

That blue crimped on connector, is that where it was jerry rigged? I didn`t mess with the old Controller, left it be.


Charlie