When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I only have my phone to navigate the site and have no idea how to search. Anyone have a link or pointers on removing the oil cooler? I need to replace the orings on my high mileage 97 this weekend. Ive got oil and antifreeze, orings should be here today. Never done this on one in the truck. Looking for access tips. Looks like a pain in the you know what. I power washed the area as good
as I could last night.
It is pretty straight forward IF the truck is a 4X4. Remove the oil filter, then the 2 front and 3 rear bolts that hold the cooler to the block, and get ready for an antifreeze shower. The whole assembly should slide out the rear of the engine.
My truck is a 4x4 and I found it to be extremely frustrating to remove and reinstall the oil cooler. My advice would be to make sure that you’ve got plenty of patience and surround yourself with whatever relaxes you.
I know people here have done it without lifting the LH side of the engine - and I have too.....ONCE.
The frustration it saves by giving myself just one extra inch makes it worth it to me to spend the couple extra minutes taking the nuts off of the engine mount. I do a lot of these as I own/operate a general repair shop and (by reputation good or bad) specialize in the 7.3L.
Thanks guys. It is a 4wd, but I think I'll lift the motor to make it easier. I have to agree a couple minutes or so to reduce frustration is well worth it.
I usually just drain coolant at the block drain on driver side. And pull oil filter and then unbolt and wiggle it out definitely can be a little bit frustrating. Never thought about raising motor up little on that side probably definitely helps a little.
Never done one on a 4x4 OBS, but since they share close to the same design in frames like the stupid duty's it's doable and not that hard. The only hard part is keeping the gasket in place while trying to start threading the bolts, start with the rear ones and leave them loose then go to the front ones.
Well, didn't get motivated til after lunch. Went to move it in my shop and it's dumping diesel now too. So I got it in and tore the fuel pump off first along with taking out the bowl and cleaning the inside. Lots of crap in there. I got the oil cooler out and cleaned up ready to put back in. Then just quit for today and placed another riffraff order. I'll put the cooler in tomorrow along with taking the psom out. I'll probably just send that in for repair.
Turning out more money than I wanted to spend but gotta have something to drive. Wifes jeeps on its last leg. Can't afford anything else with 2 kids, and won't drive my good 97 once salt hits the roads. I drive my ranger mostly, but the wife loves this pickup.
I will. Took a few days off for a long weekend coming up so I haven't tackled putting it back together yet. I did one before on my other truck but it was easier as the motor was on the stand.
A cautionary tale... learn from my mistakes. I did not pull the engine mount and tip the engine. My oil cooler would not come out or go in in one piece. Oh, for an extra inch of clearance. I re-assembled my cooler in place, cut or pinched an O-ring without knowing it, and ended up with oil pushing into the cooling system. Mocha milkshake erupting from the overflow tank and injectors shut down from lack of oil pressure on the test drive. Luckily, I popped the overflow tank before pressurized coolant could backflow into the oil system so no engine damage, but still a several-thousand-dollar bill to flush the oil system and re-install the cooler correctly. And the tow...
If you can't get the cooler out or in in one piece without pulling the left engine mount and raising the engine, either pull the mount and raise the engine, or pay someone else to do it. Don't risk a cut or pinched O-ring.
oil cooler has to be turned like 90 to slide back in
I used no oil when putting them on the tube
lubed the ends only so o ring would not roll/pinch
can use duct tape to keep ends from popping off during install
Oil cooler went pretty well. I also did a fuel pump like mentioned above. That banjo bolt can kiss my a$$. It's done though, and think I got most all the leaks taken care of. I put an end to the psom thread too but I'll mention it here also. That repair was well worth it. Shifts much better, consistent shifts instead of different every time you drive it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.